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Thread: my ideas to combat heat

  1. #41
    Constant Bitrate
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    To iterate what Ares, David and I have said earlier -

    Will one of the people who suggested water cooling please explain how you will get the initially hot water (100°F+) to below ambient temp? If you dump it outside, then you still have to make a port hole in the trunk - so why not try air before you make a custom water cooled solution. If not, you're battling some major efficiency problems trying to cool water using the 100°F air that in the trunk (although it is possible). Lets also keep i mind that the solution shouldn't require the car to be on.

    Wizard, just port your trunk, so the trunk temp will equal or be less than (using fans) ambient and try using larger heat sinks and fans powered by a backup battery or solar power. I know some laptop/pda manufacturers use the case of the computer as a larger heat sink. Too bad you can't put the mobo upside down and mate it with the trunk floor. The bottom of the drunk is cooler than the top since it's in the shade and air is always passing underneath it.
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  2. #42
    Variable Bitrate telekineticfool's Avatar
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    Wow, i am really worried about my carputer now...I'm going to have to seriously think about underclocking or get some hardcore cooling solutions going on. If you are having problems when temperatures INSIDE your trunk are hitting 120 degrees...I think i'm gonna have problems when the temperature OUTSIDE is 120 degrees...stupid living Arizona with a black car.

    Is the m10000 always that finicky with temperature?
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  3. #43
    FLAC MP3DUB's Avatar
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    Also, you wouldn't have to have the baffles/holes open under the car. I'm pretty sure that my passat has two baffles in the trunk, one on each side thats covered by the bumper on the outside, and inside sits behind two cubby hole pockets.
    -Nick

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  4. #44
    Newbie Mr.Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filip
    To iterate what Ares, David and I have said earlier -

    Will one of the people who suggested water cooling please explain how you will get the initially hot water (100°F+) to below ambient temp? If you dump it outside, then you still have to make a port hole in the trunk - so why not try air before you make a custom water cooled solution. If not, you're battling some major efficiency problems trying to cool water using the 100°F air that in the trunk (although it is possible). Lets also keep i mind that the solution shouldn't require the car to be on.

    Wizard, just port your trunk, so the trunk temp will equal or be less than (using fans) ambient and try using larger heat sinks and fans powered by a backup battery or solar power. I know some laptop/pda manufacturers use the case of the computer as a larger heat sink. Too bad you can't put the mobo upside down and mate it with the trunk floor. The bottom of the drunk is cooler than the top since it's in the shade and air is always passing underneath it.
    Without some form of active refrigeration, you CANNOT EVER get a watercooling setup to go below ambient. Hell, it's physically impossible! The only problem with active refrigeration (i.e. Peltiers, and phase change cooling) is that it draws a LOT of power, making it impractical for automotive use (especially with the ignition off).

    At any rate, when I suggested water cooling, my idea was so that that heat exchanger was placed OUTSIDE the vehicle. So, instead of cutting an air duct 3" or 4" wide, you'd only need to cut two holes to pass tubing with an OD of 5/8" (15.875mm for those of you on the metric system) or smaller. Ideally, you would run solid metal tubing to the exchanger, and bolt the metal tubing (and the heat exchanger) to a metal part of the car's underbody. If you do it correctly, the entire vehicle could become a huge heatsink, along with the radiator/heat exchanger. Of course the downside to this is that the opposite effect from what you're looking for could happen, and instead of cooling the water, it'd boil it. Also, one other reason you'd want to use metal tubing when possible in the loop is that vinyl tubing wouldn't last long in heated conditions. Some tubing (Tygon for example) is only rated to work up to 140F. After that, it starts breaking down.

    *TECHNICALLY*, a WC loop WILL WORK without a pump. It just won't be as good moving the heat from one side to the other. Through convection, the heat in the water will move from one side to the other on its own. The only thing is, depending on the amount of water in the loop, it'll take some time to do it.

    At any rate, I mentioned WC because Wizard was asking for any and all suggestions. I agree that air cooling is the easiest method of PC cooling. Once you WC though, you find it hard to go back to air.

  5. #45
    Maximum Bitrate eCar™'s Avatar
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    I would say that if you have to go to any kind of extreme measures to cool a C3, you have problems. Fix the problem and forget about the special cooling.

    Withstanding heat and low power consumption is the C3's claim to fame. The thing only produces like 10 watts of heat max. You've all seen the movie.

    It is more likely some other component that is having trouble with the heat. Try trading memory out. Or HD, etc.

  6. #46
    Raw Wave wizardPC's Avatar
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    so, where might I get some DDR that can operate in these temperatures?
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  7. #47
    FLAC MP3DUB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Sinister
    Without some form of active refrigeration, you CANNOT EVER get a watercooling setup to go below ambient. Hell, it's physically impossible! The only problem with active refrigeration (i.e. Peltiers, and phase change cooling) is that it draws a LOT of power, making it impractical for automotive use (especially with the ignition off).

    At any rate, when I suggested water cooling, my idea was so that that heat exchanger was placed OUTSIDE the vehicle. So, instead of cutting an air duct 3" or 4" wide, you'd only need to cut two holes to pass tubing with an OD of 5/8" (15.875mm for those of you on the metric system) or smaller. Ideally, you would run solid metal tubing to the exchanger, and bolt the metal tubing (and the heat exchanger) to a metal part of the car's underbody. If you do it correctly, the entire vehicle could become a huge heatsink, along with the radiator/heat exchanger. Of course the downside to this is that the opposite effect from what you're looking for could happen, and instead of cooling the water, it'd boil it. Also, one other reason you'd want to use metal tubing when possible in the loop is that vinyl tubing wouldn't last long in heated conditions. Some tubing (Tygon for example) is only rated to work up to 140F. After that, it starts breaking down.

    *TECHNICALLY*, a WC loop WILL WORK without a pump. It just won't be as good moving the heat from one side to the other. Through convection, the heat in the water will move from one side to the other on its own. The only thing is, depending on the amount of water in the loop, it'll take some time to do it.

    At any rate, I mentioned WC because Wizard was asking for any and all suggestions. I agree that air cooling is the easiest method of PC cooling. Once you WC though, you find it hard to go back to air.

    Actually, evaporative water cooling will get you sub ambient, but driving around with a big cooling stack sticking out of the trunk might get some funny looks .
    -Nick

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  8. #48
    FLAC MP3DUB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wizardPC
    so, where might I get some DDR that can operate in these temperatures?
    What brand are you running now? Othr than the loose dimm slot on my epia killing about a stick a year, the crucial pc2100 i use holds up to the midwest temperatures (-10 to 110) without a hiccup. Also, what are the other bits you're running? IE hdd, psu, etc (as a 7200rpm hdd can run at 100F+ with a 70F ambient, etc etc etc).
    -Nick

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  9. #49
    Variable Bitrate Cherub211's Avatar
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    5$ to the first person who uses the AC to liquid cool their computer... it can't be that hard.

  10. #50
    FLAC MP3DUB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cherub211
    5$ to the first person who uses the AC to liquid cool their computer... it can't be that hard.
    You mean freeon? or r134a (damn corporations)? When you're going to be sarcastic, you need a funny face
    -Nick

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