But I have an Epia, dammit!
If I could watercool it I would
that's not a half bad idea for when the car is moving... but the question is how it would work when the car is sationary... I'd think that the water would just end up getting hot and your back to the same problem.
Oh I think water cooling is great. It's just that Wizard wanted something for when his car is standing still with the engine off. I mean, once the car gets going the cabin temp should reach an acceptable level for the cpu. I didn't think it was valid to try and water cool a cpu with 100°F+ water that has been sitting inside the car - especially since it also involved dumping heat from the radiator to the inside of the car. Once you get going water cooling using an external would be awesome (although a project in itself).Originally Posted by Mr.Sinister
I mean, I guess you could use this guy's setup and put a fan behind the radiator that runs off of solar power - but perhaps Wizard may want to try a less expensive (both time and $) solution first?
anaxagoras beat me to it...sorry for rehashing the same thing.
No Carputer YET.
A car I'm designing...
True...Originally Posted by Filip
"The rest of the details are pretty much like any other water cooled rig. Since I needed 120v AC for the Mini-PC, I used a 120v Eheim 1048 pump. For the ˝" water lines to and from the radiator, I actually used aluminum fuel lines. I could get away with just a loop of that line up to the front of the car and back and ditch the radiator, but it's nice to have, just-in-case." (my italics - Mr.S)
If I read that right, the fuel line is acting like a heat sink (along with the areas it's contacting the body of the car), and just put the radiator there as a precaution. Essentially, the aluminum fuel line is acting like a radiator, along with the oil cooler that he put behind his fog light. If you think about it, the radiator, combined with the roughly 15 feet of aluminum fuel line, has one heckuvalot of surface area.
Since I'm not the guy who did the install, I can't answer specific questions. Two questions I myself have about the install are:
1) Where does this guy live? If he lives in the northern parts of the US or Europe, did he use anti-freeze in the coolant. If not, look out around December! The busted pipes should be a sight to behold. The catch-22 of it all though is that using anti-freeze is going to have an effect on how low the temps of the coolant will go to.
2) How are the temps after the car's been sitting in the sun for a while. This is the same question that all of you have. While not too many people are probably going to use their system for very long while the car engine is off and the car is parked(most people won't use it for very long because they'll kill their battery. A buddy of mine can kill his battery in a hour with just his stereo being turned on. Of course it doesn't help that he has two high-powered amps, and a Boston Acoustics 10.5LF sub ), it's still an issue that has to be addressed.
If *I* was building that setup, I wouldn't have used a 120V pump. But, then again, that's just me. He may have just had it lying around, and instead of buying a 12V pump, just used that one instead.
Oh yeah, Wiz... I agree with you. You shouldn't have to go to extremes to cool an EPIA board. On the flip side, there should be a way to remove the glued on heatsink of the M10000 without killing the board. It's probably epoxied on, which means you'd have to stick it in the freezer (inside an ESD bag of course!) for a couple of hours to make the glue bittle. Definitely not for the faint of heart.
Oh yeah.. something else just came to mind.
We're all going on the asumption that the machine is crashing because the CPU is overheating. Who's to say that it's not something else on the board that's causing the machine to crash? As dumb as this may seem, you may want to give your board a once-over, and see if there's any suspicious looking solder joints or discolored components on it.
If you had access to one, it'd be a Godsend if you could use a thermal imager to see the hotspots on the board (i.e.: http://www.bigbruin.com/html/thermal_images.htm).
I am not assuming that the CPU is overheating.Originally Posted by Mr.Sinister
Originally Posted by eCar™
Originally Posted by eCar™
OK, I stand corrected. I didn't see your original post there eCar.
BTW, I never saw that video before either.
how about an air to air intercooler? use a fan or fans in the case to circulate the air to the intercooler mounted in an area where there a lot of ventaltion? and use a solar panel (i've seen some little ones for $50) to circulate the air and blow on the intercooler to chill it, just a thought, as long a the case is sealed you should be fine
okay, after talking about this with my father (who has worked in industrial HVAC for 35 years), this is the current plan.
i'm gonna buy two of these:
they are 3" vents for marine engine compartments.
I gonna mount them facing rearward to prevent water from being forced into the trunk when i'm driving 80 on the interstate in the rain.
now, if I can only find some fans that are designed for 3" ductwork
3" ~ 80mm
Since when is insanity a bad thing?