Here's how I set mine up. The main battery powers everything that it did before (no change). The second battery has its own distribution block and power all the PC stuff.Originally Posted by Mike12086
hey guys, i wasnt sure if this topic should go here or not but here it is.
when i finally get all my stuff installed (carputer and rest of the system) i want to set up a second battery in the trunk to run it while the car is off. i've been looking at battery isolators and just want to make sure i have a correct idea on how to set them up. it seems like the alt + comes out and goes into the isolator then from there the isolator goes out to each battery. but after that is where i'm getting a little confused. does my under hood battery (main) only get connected to the starter and the trunk battery (aux) get connected to everything else (system, carputer, and the rest of the devices in the car like lights and such)?
thanks for the help
mike
also setup that way if correct when i go into the car and put the key in the acc osition it will only get power from the aux abttery correct?
2003 Steel Blue PT Cruiser GT Autostick, Mopar BOV, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust, Boost Gauge.
ICE: 2 12" Infinity 1230W, JBL BP1200.1, Infinity 6000CS, JBL P80.4, Sirius Starmate.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314583
Here's how I set mine up. The main battery powers everything that it did before (no change). The second battery has its own distribution block and power all the PC stuff.Originally Posted by Mike12086
It's the cake having/eating thing.
What is the price associated with these extra batteries?
You can basically connect whatever you want to the aux battery. My aux system powers my comp, amps, headunit, power seats, mood lights, etc. This was pretty easy though, because my van has a whole separate fuse panel for all the conversion accessories, so I just rewired that to the aux system.Originally Posted by Mike12086
To make the accessory ignition position go from the aux, you'd have to re-route everything from the accessory part of your fuse panel. I don't know what all systems are included in the accessory position, so I don't know if I'd recommend doing that. I have all my comp/stereo stuff hardwired to the aux system with rocker switches for different components. I'd recommend wiring straight to the aux system with a manual switch or relay to turn on and off. You just need your stereo and comp on the aux battery, not your lights and heater and stuff.
95 Chevy G20 Vroom Boom Room
...with a whole bunch of nifty ****... go check it out: VanDomain Page
Optima Yellow tops are approx $100-130. There's another brand that's been mentioned too... can't remember what it is.
95 Chevy G20 Vroom Boom Room
...with a whole bunch of nifty ****... go check it out: VanDomain Page
The isolator doesn't change anything in the way your original batter is connected to the rest of the vehicle, whatever you want to run off the isolator you need to re-wire yourself
ok thanks guys. now i have my starting point. luckly there will be minium rewiring because pretty much everything will be in the trunk.
2003 Steel Blue PT Cruiser GT Autostick, Mopar BOV, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust, Boost Gauge.
ICE: 2 12" Infinity 1230W, JBL BP1200.1, Infinity 6000CS, JBL P80.4, Sirius Starmate.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314583
I'd take a hawker oddessy over a yellow top any day.. either way goto batterymart.com for all your battery needs. In terms of isolators/regulators there's many to chose from from any of the car audio manufacturers or ones for commercial use.
i plan to use breakers......after i put my new system in and went through like 5 80 amp fuses in a week because i was showing off i bought a 140 amp breaker (which i can still pop if u make me...so everything will probabily have breakers on it unless it is something with a small draw then i will fuse.
2003 Steel Blue PT Cruiser GT Autostick, Mopar BOV, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust, Boost Gauge.
ICE: 2 12" Infinity 1230W, JBL BP1200.1, Infinity 6000CS, JBL P80.4, Sirius Starmate.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314583
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