Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: battery isolator

  1. #1
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Howell, NJ
    Posts
    43

    battery isolator

    hey guys, i wasnt sure if this topic should go here or not but here it is.
    when i finally get all my stuff installed (carputer and rest of the system) i want to set up a second battery in the trunk to run it while the car is off. i've been looking at battery isolators and just want to make sure i have a correct idea on how to set them up. it seems like the alt + comes out and goes into the isolator then from there the isolator goes out to each battery. but after that is where i'm getting a little confused. does my under hood battery (main) only get connected to the starter and the trunk battery (aux) get connected to everything else (system, carputer, and the rest of the devices in the car like lights and such)?
    thanks for the help
    mike
    also setup that way if correct when i go into the car and put the key in the acc osition it will only get power from the aux abttery correct?
    2003 Steel Blue PT Cruiser GT Autostick, Mopar BOV, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust, Boost Gauge.
    ICE: 2 12" Infinity 1230W, JBL BP1200.1, Infinity 6000CS, JBL P80.4, Sirius Starmate.
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314583

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate more mods's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    873
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike12086
    hey guys, i wasnt sure if this topic should go here or not but here it is.
    when i finally get all my stuff installed (carputer and rest of the system) i want to set up a second battery in the trunk to run it while the car is off. i've been looking at battery isolators and just want to make sure i have a correct idea on how to set them up. it seems like the alt + comes out and goes into the isolator then from there the isolator goes out to each battery. but after that is where i'm getting a little confused. does my under hood battery (main) only get connected to the starter and the trunk battery (aux) get connected to everything else (system, carputer, and the rest of the devices in the car like lights and such)?
    thanks for the help
    mike
    also setup that way if correct when i go into the car and put the key in the acc osition it will only get power from the aux abttery correct?
    Here's how I set mine up. The main battery powers everything that it did before (no change). The second battery has its own distribution block and power all the PC stuff.
    It's the cake having/eating thing.

  3. #3
    Newbie HitLines's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    14
    What is the price associated with these extra batteries?

  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate VanMan69's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Alameda, CA
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike12086
    hey guys, i wasnt sure if this topic should go here or not but here it is.
    when i finally get all my stuff installed (carputer and rest of the system) i want to set up a second battery in the trunk to run it while the car is off. i've been looking at battery isolators and just want to make sure i have a correct idea on how to set them up. it seems like the alt + comes out and goes into the isolator then from there the isolator goes out to each battery. but after that is where i'm getting a little confused. does my under hood battery (main) only get connected to the starter and the trunk battery (aux) get connected to everything else (system, carputer, and the rest of the devices in the car like lights and such)?
    thanks for the help
    mike
    also setup that way if correct when i go into the car and put the key in the acc osition it will only get power from the aux abttery correct?
    You can basically connect whatever you want to the aux battery. My aux system powers my comp, amps, headunit, power seats, mood lights, etc. This was pretty easy though, because my van has a whole separate fuse panel for all the conversion accessories, so I just rewired that to the aux system.

    To make the accessory ignition position go from the aux, you'd have to re-route everything from the accessory part of your fuse panel. I don't know what all systems are included in the accessory position, so I don't know if I'd recommend doing that. I have all my comp/stereo stuff hardwired to the aux system with rocker switches for different components. I'd recommend wiring straight to the aux system with a manual switch or relay to turn on and off. You just need your stereo and comp on the aux battery, not your lights and heater and stuff.
    95 Chevy G20 Vroom Boom Room
    ...with a whole bunch of nifty ****... go check it out: VanDomain Page

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate VanMan69's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Alameda, CA
    Posts
    492
    Optima Yellow tops are approx $100-130. There's another brand that's been mentioned too... can't remember what it is.
    95 Chevy G20 Vroom Boom Room
    ...with a whole bunch of nifty ****... go check it out: VanDomain Page

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate eugenen's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    858
    The isolator doesn't change anything in the way your original batter is connected to the rest of the vehicle, whatever you want to run off the isolator you need to re-wire yourself

  7. #7
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Howell, NJ
    Posts
    43
    ok thanks guys. now i have my starting point. luckly there will be minium rewiring because pretty much everything will be in the trunk.
    2003 Steel Blue PT Cruiser GT Autostick, Mopar BOV, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust, Boost Gauge.
    ICE: 2 12" Infinity 1230W, JBL BP1200.1, Infinity 6000CS, JBL P80.4, Sirius Starmate.
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314583

  8. #8
    Low Bitrate
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    58
    I'd take a hawker oddessy over a yellow top any day.. either way goto batterymart.com for all your battery needs. In terms of isolators/regulators there's many to chose from from any of the car audio manufacturers or ones for commercial use.

  9. #9
    Maximum Bitrate eugenen's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    858
    remember fuses are your friend

  10. #10
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Howell, NJ
    Posts
    43
    i plan to use breakers......after i put my new system in and went through like 5 80 amp fuses in a week because i was showing off i bought a 140 amp breaker (which i can still pop if u make me ...so everything will probabily have breakers on it unless it is something with a small draw then i will fuse.
    2003 Steel Blue PT Cruiser GT Autostick, Mopar BOV, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust, Boost Gauge.
    ICE: 2 12" Infinity 1230W, JBL BP1200.1, Infinity 6000CS, JBL P80.4, Sirius Starmate.
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314583

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Battery Isolator solution?
    By breimann in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 04-17-2005, 05:45 PM
  2. Voltage drop using Stinger S1602 Battery Isolator
    By therussman2002 in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-01-2005, 09:56 PM
  3. MPJA - MECI ASTEC DC-DC Converter
    By Luc in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 11-22-2004, 09:31 PM
  4. What amperage do I need on my battery isolator??? HELP!
    By MrBojanglez50 in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-12-2004, 01:16 PM
  5. battery isolator vs relay
    By Telek in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 11-08-2003, 07:30 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •