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Thread: Dual Exhausts...fabrication?

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate jzgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stealth97
    No, it wont, This is the biggest mith going around about aftermarket exhaust systems.

    Backpressure is in an exhaust is bad, period. But this does not mean that you cant go too big. An oversized exhaust will slow the gas velocity and cause turbulent flow.

    You CAN go too big, but backpressure is not the reason.

    Also, on smaller engines, you are not going to get much of a power increase from typical intake, header and exhaust modifications alone. You will spend what $800-1500 for 10-15 hp?

    Horesepower is cheaper when bought in bulk Turbo or S/C is the way to go. It is expensive, yes, but cheaper than building a full-tilt race motor that probably wont make as much power. Check out the miata.net for a few thousand other users who will tell you the same thing.
    I agree - back pressure, as close to zero as possible is best - I may have not expressed that as well by stating it as I did (because you can lose low end torque say if you swapped from an exhaust manifold to a header). There needs to be a balance between the diameter of the exhaust and flow. If you do not require a larger diameter tubing, do not go bigger as you'll lose the scavenging effect created by the pulses of the exhaust and the positive flow, thus slowing the positive flow. You will also lose heat in the exhaust, which will also slow the flow, as I stated.

    - Jeff
    95 Mustang GT Convertible
    87 Mustang GT Convertible
    My Project | Let's Go Mets! | SCT Tuners

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  2. #42
    Variable Bitrate fonseca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx
    I'm not saying you're wrong for not going f/i or wasting your money. but hp/$ you can't beat a f/i system.
    As I said, I spent around $1200 on those mods, which I consider a bargain. I'm probably at 180hp as a conservative estimate, which is a nice improvement over stock. I've actually been acquiring turbo parts for the last year, and I'm going to get dyno'd before and after. Except for the header, cam and cai, the NA mods I made will remain. My goal was 200hp, but I'm at the point where it's cheaper to go FI to get there. If you only want a moderate boost in power, I still say NA is the best bang for the buck.

    Don't forget other hidden costs when you add 100hp with a turbo. A stock clutch won't hold, I would probably put in a stage III. And I would certainly upgrade my injectors, fuel pump, and seriously consider aftermarket pistons. Boost is a slippery slope, no one ever seems to be happy with the psi they say the want. A Miata kit might not need an upgraded ECU, but I would definitely swap mine. And I'll need to monitor everything as well. It quickly adds up beyond the base $3k. If someone only wants to add an extra 50hp to a daily driver, NA is the best and most reliable route.

    If you strip your car of 75lbs before going to the track, you can see the difference on your timeslip. It may not be much, but it's just a hobby after all. Adding a dual exhaust is something I would call rice because it's purely for show and to give the impression of power. It's on the same level as installing a fake turbo sound device in your muffler.
    In progress: M10000; Travla c134; Xenarc 700TSV; Hitachi 80GB 2.5"; 256MB ULP; M2-ATX; ITPS; Powermate; iKEY SL-88 KB; Holux GM-210; Audiobahn ADD51T w/ COAX/optical converter; Road Runner; iGuidance 2.1

  3. #43
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    btw, most performance parts done to your car will only decrease MPG. more power = less gas mileage.

    any/most mods you do to the engine will make it "louder"

    and then the problems come w/ putting aftermarket products on car (engine-wise)... believe me, i've been there.

    which is why i went from this:





    (best turbo exhaust is no exhaust )

    to this:





    keep your engine stock, it'll save you money in the long run my car went from being turbo (blowing my engine, having it sit around for a year) to what it is in the last couple of pics.

  4. #44
    Variable Bitrate fonseca's Avatar
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    Just adding a CAI and less restrictive exhaust bumped my economy up 3mpg. Those were the only changes I made at that time, no engine tuneups or anything. And that was despite accelerating aggressively more often. NA mods mean more power AND better MPG.

    You're correct about noise. After trying several mufflers, I ditched the straight-through one I originally purchased for a Dynomax where the gases follow an S-shape. That and a glasspack keep the sound very reasonable and buzz-free. My intake is louder than my exhaust.
    In progress: M10000; Travla c134; Xenarc 700TSV; Hitachi 80GB 2.5"; 256MB ULP; M2-ATX; ITPS; Powermate; iKEY SL-88 KB; Holux GM-210; Audiobahn ADD51T w/ COAX/optical converter; Road Runner; iGuidance 2.1

  5. #45
    Constant Bitrate stapan's Avatar
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    btw, most performance parts done to your car will only decrease MPG. more power = less gas mileage.
    not necessarily. in fact, many performance upgrades actually upgrade overall MPG by making the engine more efficient.

  6. #46
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    if your looking for a powerful motor to run dual exhaust then y do you drive a matrix, i mean i thought my jeep didn't have much horse power at 176hp on a dyno and it is lifted 5" with 33" tires i would go out and buy a ricer or somthing if u want horsepower

  7. #47
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    There is a car around here that has a rear body kit with two "exhaust" pipes...

    Only that every time I see it, one is dirty and the other one is clean.. so you could always install a fake tip so it doesn't look odd with having just the one cutout there :P

  8. #48
    tja
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    Quote Originally Posted by john1701
    you think I can put dual exhaust on my honda?
    something like this?
    2005 Nissan Xtrail
    DFI 855GME-MGF - Celeron M 1.4GHz - 256Mb RAM - 200Gb SATA HDD - OPUS 150w - Xenarc 700TSV

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