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Thread: Survey: Startup times and methods

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnomad
    If you are really seeing a 0.2 - 0.4 voltage drop overnight (that is, your initial measurment does not indicate a surface charge) then you have a serious problem as a 0.4 volt drop represents 50% of your battery life! (reference: http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/...4.htm#vrla_soc)
    Maybe I'm not getting you right. My voltage drop is 4/10ths of a volt. That is, it goes from 12.2 to 11.8 overnight. That is just 1.6% of the total voltage.

    But I do agree, I ought to measure it in sleep.
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugbyte
    Maybe I'm not getting you right. My voltage drop is 4/10ths of a volt. That is, it goes from 12.2 to 11.8 overnight. That is just 1.6% of the total voltage.
    The range between a fully charged and fully discharged lead acid battery is somewhere between 0.8V and 1.0V depending on the type of battery, and an automotive starting battery should *never* be drained more than 50%.

    I *strongly* encourage anyone using an auto-shutoff controller to read this FAQ: http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq.htm

    The way that most battery shutoff controllers are configured is to save just enough juice to start the engine in an emergency and draining your battery to this level on a regular basis will dramatically reduce it's lifespan.

    -p.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnomad
    I *strongly* encourage anyone using an auto-shutoff controller to read this FAQ: http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq.htm
    I read it. I still don't get how a .4 volt loss equals draining my battery 50%.

    However, according to this FAQ, my battery can:
    1. kill me
    2. blind me
    3. fail due to heat
    4. fail due to cold
    5. fail due to use
    6. fail due to non use
    7. fail if I look at it
    8. fail if I ignore it
    9. fail if I charge it
    10. fail if I discharge it
    11. fail if I jump start it
    12. fail if I use it to jump start something else

    Okay, I made up 7 and 8. The FAQ also says that the longest a battery will last is 57 months, the shortest, 30 months. My current battery is 38 months old. It will fail in the next year. If I treat it as an average user. Which I'm not.

    I think I'll take my chances and ignore the FAQ. I'll buy a new one when it fails. According to the FAQ, I should buy the best one I can afford with the greatest capacity.

    That's great advice, thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
    -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
    -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

  4. #14
    Nic
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    that .4 is a rough estimate, it depends on the battery, some pretty graphs are avaliable here http://www.homepower.com/files/battvoltandsoc.pdf
    Signature: [==||========] 20% complete

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugbyte
    I read it. I still don't get how a .4 volt loss equals draining my battery 50%.
    Here's a fairly good explaination:

    http://www.mpoweruk.com/performance.htm

    Just as an aside to all this, I'm not tryink to knock sleep mode. Quite the contrary, I think it is the way to go for car computer applications.


    -p.

  6. #16
    FLAC
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    FYI...the P1900 draws around 200mA while feeding a sleeping mini.
    MikeH

  7. #17
    Variable Bitrate
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    basically anything under 1 amp is fine.

    A compustar alarm takes 200ma while 'idle'.

  8. #18
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    3 seconds for my carputer to take up and be fully funcational.

  9. #19
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    Surely more folks can contribute than this. Please help. Thank you.

  10. #20
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    1. Hardware Configuration
    * PC config - Epia M1000, 512M, 12G laptop drive ( ?? have to check RPM)
    * startup controller - M1ATX, 5 sec startup delay
    * tweaks/configs - BIOS set to quickboot
    2. Software Configuration
    * operating system - Windows XP Pro
    * front end & component - Frodoplayer
    * tweaks/configs - some services disabled, minlogon and regedits tweaks
    3. Startup Stratgey
    * type of startup - cold boot
    * no special startup tricks, ignition wired directly to M1ATX
    4. Startup time, broken down by component of possible
    * startup controller delay - ?
    * BIOS delay - 3-4 secs
    * HDD delay - 45 secs
    * total time from startup initiation (ignition or remote entry) until music comes from speakers - about 50 secs
    5. Subjective information
    * On a scale of 1 (not important) to 10 (very important) how important is a quick startup time? - 10
    * On a scale of 1 (not satisfied) to 10 (very satisfied) how do you feel about the startup time of your system? - 3
    * On a scale of 1 (not important) to 10 (very important) rate how interested you are in improving your startup time. - 10
    6. Any other configs, notes or comments that don't fall into any of the categories above.
    * I can update the information on the things areas I left with a ?? but it seems like I can't speed up the boot time to play music more the 90 seconds. The only thing that I have not used yet is the nlite program. Could this actually cut maybe 30 seconds from my boot-tiime? Am I doing something wrong? Is it Frodoplayer that's killing my time?

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