F-Body Ideas - Camaro and Firebird

**JasonWW** · 10-22-2006, 10:24 PM

If you remember the pics I did from earlier I can use the whole back seat area of the car. If I build a box level with the rear deck and have it come forward to the rear seat humps on the floor I can get 4 cu ft. Plus I have the 3 amps that can be linked together, plus the PC and the duct to the rear so it's going to be pretty big no matter what. As long as I have the rear storage area for my junk then it's all good. I don't carry passengers in the back so all that space is fair game. I'm just concerned about weight which is why I plan to make the box from fiberglass and not wood. The one area I might give up weight for would be the real plate glass windows. Either 1/4" or 3/8" thick can add some real weight, but they look so much better than plexi that it's worth it.

That Eclipse SW8102 is one of their older models which I can't find out much info on. Did you mean feed each sub 1000w or 1000w to the pair? I don't know if they are using the linear motor technology, but the new SW8000 series do use it. Besides TC Sounds, another company using the linear motor technology is Soundsplinter:
http://www.soundsplinter.com/rls_sup...r_drivers.html

The cheapest of the subs using this technology is the Eclipse SW8000 series which I see for under $200 on ebay. They all seem to need a massive amount of power. I don't think 600w would be enough for a single LMT sub. For instance, 2 of the new SW8200's. Plus I may not be able to get the full potential from them. I could probably get a single dual 4 ohm sub and wire one amp per voice coil and get 1200w to one sub. They can be expensive so getting one high end sub keeps it in my price range, plus I could feed it more power. One cone also makes the duct smaller. A single 15" sub would only need a duct 4 inches tall.

What do you think of one massive sub like the 15" Eclipse 9152, feed it 1200w and drop it in a 3-4 cu ft enclosure?

I see the SW9152 for about $310 on ebay and $500 from more reputable places. That fits my budget.

I can see a nonsymetrical enclosure. It would be one big sealed enclosure, but the sub would be firing up under glass on the passenger side and the PC could be under glass where the other sub would be on the drivers side. That would look pretty cool.

One other thing, if I can ever find any specs on the SW9152 15" and the smaller SW9122 12" and lets say their sensitivity ratings were only 1 dB apart. Does that actually mean that the 15" would only be 1 dB louder than the 12? That seems so strange to me.

**JasonWW** · 10-22-2006, 10:51 PM

It seems the SW9152 and SW9122 may be for ported boxes. I can't find specs, but what I can find suggests sealed is not very good with these.

**turbocad6** · 10-23-2006, 12:04 AM

man, those linear subs got me drooling, I like what I see there, I guess there too new to have been reviewed anywhere?....

**JasonWW** · 10-23-2006, 12:12 AM

I know as much about them as you do at this point.

They do seem very impressive. Between 3" to 4" of excusion! That's wild.

**JasonWW** · 10-23-2006, 03:38 PM

Here's a few diagrams with the single sub idea. I may go with a more common Rockford T115D4 sub.

**JasonWW** · 10-23-2006, 04:23 PM

Hell, if I'm going to use only one sub then I may as well just go back to mounting it in the back like so:

It's more efficient use of space as the duct won't be needed. It makes the whole back seat area less overbearing and more rooming feeling.

Having one sub and the PC side by side just didn't seem right plus it messed up the vent calculations. With a single sub I'd rather have it the center of the car as it just seems better.

Now if I can just cut a hole on the rear deck, over the gas tank and sink the speaker magnet down into it to lower the overall height.

**JasonWW** · 10-23-2006, 05:22 PM

Actually, facing the sub to the rear would probably be best. Believe it or not, but it doesn't block the rear vision when looking through the rear view mirror. I can mold the enclosure so it's only as tall as it needs to be and on either side of the sub it can slope down so the bass can fire backwards and then come around the sides and back towards the front. In my SPL testing this seems to work very well and I wouldn't need to seal off the back storage area. Plus it would look good when you pop the hatch.

**jrtf83** · 10-23-2006, 09:30 PM

hey guys, in the interest of getting things back to fbody related ideas, who has actually installed the mobo and whatnot behind the screen all in the dash? i'm considering doing this, as i've yet to find a good spot for the box.

And what have you guys been doing for CD drives? Slotload is the order of the day i assume? but where?

and radio? I hear the radio tuner cards kinda suck, like much worse than the stock reception...

**JasonWW** · 10-23-2006, 09:33 PM

Didn't I already answer all those questions? Check earlier in the thread. I think I answered all 3.

**narandomsortofw** · 10-23-2006, 10:20 PM

If you put the PC next to your sub I'm sure your ram or any other magnized devices in your computer case are going to hate you...at least a wee bit.

jrtf83: I didn't put my mobo behind my monitor, but I stuffed my head unit behind there...that way I could control my radio with my steering wheel controls and I could listen to the radio while my computer boots up or if there is any problems with the comp I don't have complete silence while the comp is down. I put a "lite-on SOLC-241k" slot load cdrw/dvd in my glove box. I found a case for the dvd player on ebay that converts that makes the dvd player run off of USB (it has a power usb and a data usb). i will have some pictures up this weekend...I think it looks sweet (my comp is in the cubby hole in the back).

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