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Thread: Totally dissapointed with my carputer!

  1. #11
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    You should have a 2-wire cable going from the M1ATX to the power button headers of your motherboard, which initiates the soft power-on.
    You didn't mention that specifically with your details about wiring, so I figured I'd ask....
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  2. #12
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert
    You should have a 2-wire cable going from the M1ATX to the power button headers of your motherboard, which initiates the soft power-on.
    You didn't mention that specifically with your details about wiring, so I figured I'd ask....
    UWAHHHHHHH? I'll have to rummage through the packaging I got with the system but I never seen that. Not sure if the picture above is showing up for anyone else but that's exactly how I have mine connected except I cut that one black wire on the J2. There's some sort of wire to go to the power/ground pins? Where on the M1 does it connect? We may be a whole lot closer, thanks, Perv!
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  3. #13
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    Wiredwrx's Avatar
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    First of all, you mentioned that you used the wiring from a harness for your stereo, that is a NO NO.

    You need to run a dedicated wire to your battery for constant power, and then a seperate wire from a switched power source (which could be from the radio harness if you like).

    Make sure that you have constant power on the constant wire, and switched on the switched wire. CHECK THE MANUAL FOR THE PROPER COLOR, since just assuming that red is constant, and yellow is switched MAY be incorrect. If you switch them around accidentally the unit might work, but it won't work correctly, and could cause such things as improper shutdown and startup. And assuming that the wires are connected correctly because" you can jump start it" is plain wrong. Oh ya, what do you mean by "Jump Start it"

    Thanks for the picture of your PS, but it doesn't show a darn thing about what wires go where. And yes, that was sarcastic.

    ALso, the unit should have several jumpers that set how the unit operates. Such things as how long till the shutdown and startup commands are sent to the MB after power on and power off of the switched wire, how long till hard off (that means that the M1 turns off all power to the MB, since in order to shutdown properly after you shut off the car, the M1 needs to power the MB for some time) and things like that.

    Check all the wiring, make sure the wire from M1 to the MB power switch header is connected to the right pins, and check the jumper settings.

    Good luck,
    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano
    UWAHHHHHHH? I'll have to rummage through the packaging I got with the system but I never seen that. Not sure if the picture above is showing up for anyone else but that's exactly how I have mine connected except I cut that one black wire on the J2. There's some sort of wire to go to the power/ground pins? Where on the M1 does it connect? We may be a whole lot closer, thanks, Perv!
    Ummm, in your picture, you have TWO 2 conductor cables leaving the PS. Where are they going to if at least one of them is NOT going to the MB.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    First of all, you mentioned that you used the wiring from a harness for your stereo, that is a NO NO.

    You need to run a dedicated wire to your battery for constant power, and then a seperate wire from a switched power source (which could be from the radio harness if you like).
    Why is this? The wire from the wire harness is a constant battery wire unless they have some sort of built in wierdness for no reason. But the wire says BATTERY/CONSTANT right on the jacket. I'm not dissagreeing with you, just trying to understand where I'm confused.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    Make sure that you have constant power on the constant wire, and switched on the switched wire. CHECK THE MANUAL FOR THE PROPER COLOR, since just assuming that red is constant, and yellow is switched MAY be incorrect. If you switch them around accidentally the unit might work, but it won't work correctly, and could cause such things as improper shutdown and startup.
    I can clear this up.
    - I have the wire coming from the + on the M1 and running through the case harness following the same line right to the BATTERY/CONSTANT wire in the vehicle harness.
    - I have the wire coming from the - on the M1 and running through the case harness following the same line right to the GND wire in the vehicle harness.
    - I have the wire coming from the SW on the M1 and running through the case harness following the same line right to the SWITCHED wire in the vehicle harness.

    So that should eliminate any improper wiring possibilities. I just used colour earlier to prevent confusion.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    And assuming that the wires are connected correctly because" you can jump start it" is plain wrong. Oh ya, what do you mean by "Jump Start it"
    I mean I can use a screwdriver to touch the power/ground pins together and make the computer start up. As if I had pushed a power button that was connected to them. So that means it's getting constant power and it's grounded.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    Thanks for the picture of your PS, but it doesn't show a darn thing about what wires go where. And yes, that was sarcastic.
    In the hopes of upsetting you more, that's not even my PSU, I stole the picture from another thread! Just messing with you. I really did though, but mine looks exactly like that so it's okay to use it. There's honestly nothing different about mine except that J2 wire I cut.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    ALso, the unit should have several jumpers that set how the unit operates. Such things as how long till the shutdown and startup commands are sent to the MB after power on and power off of the switched wire, how long till hard off (that means that the M1 turns off all power to the MB, since in order to shutdown properly after you shut off the car, the M1 needs to power the MB for some time) and things like that.

    Check all the wiring, make sure the wire from M1 to the MB power switch header is connected to the right pins, and check the jumper settings.

    Good luck,
    Michael
    I think this last part is where I'm failing. I never seen nor heard of any wire that goes from the M1 to the power pins. Are you guys messing with me? I never changed any jumper settings and I definitely never seen any wire like this. I have nothing connected to my power/ground pins which might be causing the problem. Anyone have more detail or pictures of this? I'm going to check the online manual of both the M1 and M10000 to see if they mention it.
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  6. #16
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    Ummm, in your picture, you have TWO 2 conductor cables leaving the PS. Where are they going to if at least one of them is NOT going to the MB.

    Michael
    The thin red and black wires? One powers the LED in that blue metal piece. The other is a remote lead for the amp. It's basically a switched power source for the amplifier for the speakers. And yes, the amp does work flawlessly with this setup.
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  7. #17
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    Then you have forgotten to hook up your power on signal from the power supply to the headers on the mobo. That would explain why it won't start until you 'jump' it.
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  8. #18
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    So I'm missing a wire? Where the hell is this wire?
    I have to search the packaging contents again.
    Does anyone know for sure where it connects to the M1?
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  9. #19
    Newbie freak3dot's Avatar
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    I was under the impression that most people set up thier carPC inside their house before putting it in the car to work out these sort of issues. Isn't that the easy way to do it?
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  10. #20
    FLAC evandude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano
    Why is this? The wire from the wire harness is a constant battery wire unless they have some sort of built in wierdness for no reason. But the wire says BATTERY/CONSTANT right on the jacket. I'm not dissagreeing with you, just trying to understand where I'm confused.
    because the relatively thin wire that's going throughout the dash and various connectors and to the wiring harness is not a good, low-resistance connection to the car battery. If it's bad enough, it can drop enough voltage that the power supply will be shutting off at a much higher battery voltage than it should. It's just one of those things that's considered good practice to simply start with a good quality connection to the battery, as well as a good quality connection to the chassis for ground. And by the way, one of the symptoms of a poor ground connection is a possible ground loop, which you seem to have already run into.


    I mean I can use a screwdriver to touch the power/ground pins together and make the computer start up. As if I had pushed a power button that was connected to them. So that means it's getting constant power and it's grounded.

    I think this last part is where I'm failing. I never seen nor heard of any wire that goes from the M1 to the power pins. Are you guys messing with me? I never changed any jumper settings and I definitely never seen any wire like this. I have nothing connected to my power/ground pins which might be causing the problem. Anyone have more detail or pictures of this? I'm going to check the online manual of both the M1 and M10000 to see if they mention it.
    Well, if you have to short those two pins together with a screwdriver to power up the computer, then how do you think the M1 is supposed to power it up without being connected to them? You can have it set in the BIOS so the PC powers up as soon as power is applied, however that leaves the M1 no way to shut it down other than simply cutting the power, which is not a good method (and certainly makes hibernation, standby, etc impossible unless you manually do it each time). That sounds like it could explain why the fans are still spinning when you leave the car, but later it's completely off.
    But don't take it from me! here's a quote from a real, live newbie:
    Quote Originally Posted by Viscouse
    I am learning buttloads just by searching on this forum. I've learned 2 big things so far: 1-it's been done before, and 2-if it hasn't, there is a way to do it.
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