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Thread: Totally dissapointed with my carputer!

  1. #21
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freak3dot
    I was under the impression that most people set up thier carPC inside their house before putting it in the car to work out these sort of issues. Isn't that the easy way to do it?
    Easy way or not, it's the best way to do it to make sure everything works before you spend a couple days in the hot sun putting the system in your car only to find that it doesn't work the way you expect....
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  2. #22
    FLAC
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    I didn't have a 12 volt car battery in my living room. Seriously, that's the only way I'd run into this problem on the bench.
    Ampie Case
    2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Samsung 5400RPM
    256 MB DDR2 PC5400
    Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
    Intel D945GCLF Motherboard
    M2-ATX-HV

    2005 Honda Civic

  3. #23
    FLAC
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    So looking at the manual for the M1, it looks like J6 is the motherboard on/off and J8 is an optional on/off. The LED and amp turn on are wired correctly the way I have them. I'm just missing J6. Referring back to the picture on page 1, they're the connections in brown in the bottom of the picture.
    Ampie Case
    2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Samsung 5400RPM
    256 MB DDR2 PC5400
    Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
    Intel D945GCLF Motherboard
    M2-ATX-HV

    2005 Honda Civic

  4. #24
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    Wiredwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano
    So looking at the manual for the M1, it looks like J6 is the motherboard on/off and J8 is an optional on/off. The LED and amp turn on are wired correctly the way I have them. I'm just missing J6. Referring back to the picture on page 1, they're the connections in brown in the bottom of the picture.
    Correct.

    I have a feelingt that the cable you have going to the AMP is the one that was meant for the MB, and that since the amp turn on is OPTIONAL, that wire was not included.

    But seriously, how did you plan to turn the MB on and off if there is no connection to the on and off button/header on the MB?

    You can probably jerry rig a cable for the MB on/off header if you must, but I think you should move the amp cable to the proper place on the PS and the MB, and come up with something else for your AMP.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  5. #25
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    Correct.

    I have a feelingt that the cable you have going to the AMP is the one that was meant for the MB, and that since the amp turn on is OPTIONAL, that wire was not included.

    But seriously, how did you plan to turn the MB on and off if there is no connection to the on and off button/header on the MB?

    You can probably jerry rig a cable for the MB on/off header if you must, but I think you should move the amp cable to the proper place on the PS and the MB, and come up with something else for your AMP.

    Michael
    Very possible I'm using that cable for the amp, but that wire goes into the case's harness as you can see, and when it comes out on the other side, it comes out as one wire. How am I supposed to plug this bare wire into the pins on the motherboard? This part I don't understand but I do know I need to go home and check what else came with the setup. I remember 3 more wires that look exactly like the 3 going to the +/-/SW on the M1 and I had no idea what they're for. I know they wouldn't plug into motherboard pins though.
    Ampie Case
    2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Samsung 5400RPM
    256 MB DDR2 PC5400
    Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
    Intel D945GCLF Motherboard
    M2-ATX-HV

    2005 Honda Civic

  6. #26
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by M1-ATX Manual
    Loud amplifier pops when PC starts. If your PC is connected to your car amplifier, you
    will hear a loud pop when the computer is first started. The M1-ATX has an ‘anti-thump’
    control that will keep your amp OFF while the PC starts. Simply connect J2 to your
    amplifier remote control pins to activate the ‘anti-thump’ feature.
    This is obviously not working.
    Ampie Case
    2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Samsung 5400RPM
    256 MB DDR2 PC5400
    Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
    Intel D945GCLF Motherboard
    M2-ATX-HV

    2005 Honda Civic

  7. #27
    Constant Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert
    Easy way or not, it's the best way to do it to make sure everything works before you spend a couple days in the hot sun putting the system in your car only to find that it doesn't work the way you expect....
    And even after making sure it works on the bench.. expect for things to not work when you put the system into the car.

    Personal case in point: The setup was 1 inch too large to fit into the space I was planning to mount it the car.

    Well, it looked like there was a lot of space on the bench.. DUH!

  8. #28
    Low Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano
    2. The viewing angle on the screen is horrible! When I sit in the driver's seat, I can't see anything. All the dark colours invert to light colours and I can't even tell which video I'm playing. And I have to lean over to the middle of the car to see the GPS. Plus, sunlight doesn't just make it unreadable, I can't even tell if the screen is on or off, it's rediculous.
    This is the part that's giving me second thoughts about proceeding with my carputer project. I didn't realize that the screens were so bad until I started reading about the new transflective upgrades and saw some before and after pictures. Now I see your complaint. 95% of my usage will be during the daytime. The Xenarc 700TSV is the screen I had more or less decided on, thinking it was the best in the category.

    Now I'm not so sure. Are the screens really this bad?

  9. #29
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by timeshifter
    This is the part that's giving me second thoughts about proceeding with my carputer project. I didn't realize that the screens were so bad until I started reading about the new transflective upgrades and saw some before and after pictures. Now I see your complaint. 95% of my usage will be during the daytime. The Xenarc 700TSV is the screen I had more or less decided on, thinking it was the best in the category.

    Now I'm not so sure. Are the screens really this bad?
    Dude, putting your hand over the screen does not suffice to make it readable. Even if the screen is shaded, with the reflected light coming from inside the car still makes it unreadable.
    Ampie Case
    2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Samsung 5400RPM
    256 MB DDR2 PC5400
    Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
    Intel D945GCLF Motherboard
    M2-ATX-HV

    2005 Honda Civic

  10. #30
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    this thread is quite entertaining

    regarding the screen....if you're wanting something to work like a factory nav unit, go away and come back in about a year or two.

    If you're interested in this project as just that A PROJECT, stick around and learn, and you might even help to contribute to making the manufacturers see the need to making the current screens even better.

    To the OP: how do you have your computer turning on if you currently have to jump the pins?

    If you are able to jump the pins that tells me that they aren't currently being used by anything (since they are bare and able to be jumped).
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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