Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: My setup Rants and Raves

  1. #1
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    29

    My setup Rants and Raves

    Hardware:

    > New DWW-750FM 7" In-Dash Non-Motorized Touch Screen
    > Carnetix p1900 140 Watt Power Supply
    > Older Dell Inspiron 4000 PIII Laptop

    Total Spent so far $490


    Well all the stuff came in in two days as expected. Unboxed everything and was a bit intimidated by ALL THE WIRES, its not like hooking up a simple amp or head unit.. Im talking like airplane wiring. Thought I would "throw it in" but realized the sensitive nature of electronics and took a step back, and took my time going in phazes.

    so

    Phaze 1 The Screen (DWW-750FM)

    This thing has alot of wires coming out of the back and no "harness" just bare stripped wires ready to connect. As I was searching and searching the internet for the scematics for my Toyota Camry factory wiring I just noticed (laughably) that the camry wires were MARKED! yes each and every wire had microscopic letters telling you what it is ACC, LEFT FRONT, RIGHT FRONT, GND, etc.. So it was just a matter of matching up the wires. I took the liberty of bringing the camry wiring harness in the house and doing all the taping of wires on my desk (as opposed to upside down in the car .. I am using the carnetix's 12+ volt "Secondary output" to power the screen . This thing comes with its own "power filter" which looks like a couple of resistors and a fuse.

    Well it worked out ok. Everything worked as it should. When turning the key to ACC, the thing lights up (Radio/HU Part) when turning the car on, the screen comes on and everythign is shut off during cranking as it should.

    When I first shut the car off after testing, the thing stayed on, radio playing, and screen still on after I removed the keys? I though oh man, I wired it wrong!.. Then about 15 seconds later.. it just went off by itsself.. ** GRIN ** This is very useful because you can see the computer going into standby before the screen looses power.


    OK now for the bad stuff

    THE SCREEN

    1) This DWW-750FM Has everything you could ask for EXCEPT FOR RCA OUTPUTS! Yes, this truly sucks, more audio inputs than one can ever use but not a single output. Meaning you cannot send anything to external amp(s) via RCA, you cannot add an equalizer, crossover, etc. This is unnacceptable to me so I am no longer using the built in amp functions of this unit (means no FM Radio either ) . The only way around this that I can think of is to find some type of device that takes a 0-45 watt signal and makes it line level RCA. That would be great. Then I could use its switching functionality with multiple sources.

    2) Buttons on front panel dont work.
    All excited about their power and reset buttons until I went to hook it up realizing its just one wire.. Now im no electrician but I know you need two wires to complete the loop to the pc and back, there is only one. So I connected the other one to the ground and my pc began turning off and on by itself hopelessly. I am a troubleshooter and thoroughly tested this thing and the conclusion is THEY DO NOT WORK. I tested every aspect of these buttons. I think they are there for decorations only.. which is sad, i mean its only a switch! Make it work!

    3) I had a hell of a time with the touch screen drivers. There are several post on this floating around but no solutions. When installing the touch screen drivers, it ask you a couple of questions, begins installing, gets to 100% then goes into TouchKit screen driver install and XP certification check and immediately crashes the PC.. Dead lock, tried up, down, and sideways, control panel, update drivers, manual inf's, nothing worked.. froze every time.. I was about to give up and re-install when I noticed another thread that had links to some drivers from I think egalax.com or something (will edit this when I get link) .. Their latest drivers worked flawlessly (9/2/06) finally got to calibrate the screen.

    Phaze 2 The PSU (Carnetix p1900)

    Make sure you read through the manual before connecting a single wire. And make sure you I read it several times as the p1900 is a smart device and not simple wire type of device. My laptop seems to be happy with the 20v its getting from the carnetix. Im not using the +5 yet until I get that audigy/usb hub. I also followed some directions for wiring the laptop switch to the carnetix.. This seemed to actualy work ok. And for a while it was working pretty good. No probs with the carnetix.

    oh and for the record. NEVER CONNECT ANYTHING DIRECTLY TO YOUR BATTERY WITHOUT A FUSE!!!! I accidentally crossed the + and - from the battery. Seems like a big (duhh I would never do that) but when your 4 guage fat wire turns into their 18 guage thin wires, its easy to forget the massive current that can go through them. I fried a fuse that took me 1/2 hour to find somewhere under the hood.. If It wasn't for that fuse, well big spark, burnt wires, fried electrical system, flames.. not good.


    So with the whole setup, everything is actually working as it should.. Except for one small problem

    The you have to "tell" The laptop that there is an external monitor (the touch screen) then it works fine.. until you reboot.. you have to tell it again (reaching under the passenger seat, pulling out the laptop, opening the lid, pressing FN-F5) every time I start. I read a post yesterday about the bios there may be a setting.. I will surely look into that...

    But..

    The VGA adapter on my laptop is loose and causes the screen to go purple, on, and off while driving.. looks like ill need that car-PC afterall..

    Only other gripe is im trying to figure out (will prolly post this seperately) how to get windows to "Remember" my settings.. Like in iGuidance I set the GPS comm port to 10 (xPort) but after I reboot it goes back to 1.. XPort doesnt always use its assigned port 4 either.. hmm..

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Elsewhere
    Posts
    13,950
    Welcome to our madness!!!

    Seriously... You sound as if you've done your homework and were able to plan the project out before purchasing, which makes for an easier time installing.

    I suggest opening a worklog with any/all photos. It will benefit anyone with a similar install, as well as serve as a reference for you.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    29
    Seriously... You sound as if you've done your homework and were able to plan the project out before purchasing, which makes for an easier time installing.
    Yes, you are absolutely correct. I read on these forums for about four months before I bought anything.. I was originally going to get the Lilliput then in-dash motorized, then finally decided on the DWW.. I dont really need the motorized part and I love the fact that it swivels towards you (or the passenger)

    I will post a work log/pics

  4. #4
    Constant Bitrate morris_the_cat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    210
    Looking forward to pix!

    I couldn't get the power & reset buttons to work either. Note that you do have to press the buttons 2x to get them to work, according to the manual. The 1st press, it shows on the screen a confirmation, the 2nd press is supposedly supposed to actually do it.

    Apparently the single wires are supposed to simply send a ground signal to the ground side pin of the motherboard 2-pin reset & power connectors. I tested this on my bench & grounding only one pin actually does work for both the reset & power. Then I tested the signal coming out of the single pin ground / reset wires & got nothing when pressed 2x -they did not send a ground signal, at least not that I could pick up with my multimeter. I put the multimeter in resistance mode, and one probe to the wire & the other probe to the ground, expecting to change from infinite resitance to zero resistance. I don't know what is up with that... Thought about complaining to DWW, but figured I am happy with the rest of the unit & wouldn't bother. It would be nice if they did work though...
    2001 PT Cuiser
    VoomPC with 1.5Ghz C7
    M2 power supply
    in dash slim tray dvd drive
    DWW-750FM c/w 7" USB touchscreen,AM/FM, 4x45W amp
    See my install here

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Twilight Zone
    Posts
    85
    Didn't the manual shows that it can be connected to an external amp?? (under the sketch map of connection section) or is it another language problem??

  6. #6
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    29
    Didn't the manual shows that it can be connected to an external amp?? (under the sketch map of connection section) or is it another language problem??
    Yes the manual is in badly translated english and chinese and hard to understand but thats the least of your problems. There is a wiring diagram but the diagram assumes you're not using an external amp as I believe the diagram sends the outputs directly to speakers, even if there is an amp in the diagram, The only way for this to work as intended is to have amps with "high input" connections, no rca support. Right now, in my setup Im having my laptop go directly to the amp (which also eliminated a horrid ground noise) This is fine if you have stable control of volume, and based on my RR experiences below, this is not the case. It kind of sucks to have a big silver volume nob on the unit and not be able to use it.

    Looking forward to pix!
    Will take some pix tonite


    ALSO UPDATE:

    RR Seems to be unstable, often freezing and not letting me exit. (I know the freezing part has something to do with flash and the 50-100% cpu usage, following the flash thread and replacing with flash8.ocx didnt help at all. )

    Also I notice that its RR messing with all the ports and generally upsetting the configuration when something goes wrong. When using iGuidance by itself, its alot more stable and surprisingly iGuidance automatically adjust the winamp volume when speaking regardless of RR. Its actually quite effective. I hope we can get these quirks ironed out. I know its analagous to us working on monochrome monitors at the infancy of computing, now we step back to the cars and we are in the beginnings. So just need to work out a few bugs. Ill be making a list of reproduceable problems and posting them seperately.

    Surprisingly, the power, and start-up/shut down capabilities of the carnetix p1900 are working well. Everything being controlled by the ignition key. Now if only I would not have to keep setting the port to 10 in iGuidance, muting my microphone volume, ctrl-alt-deleting out of RR to get to iguidance, re-calibrating the touch-screen every bootup, its almost demonstrateable.

  7. #7
    Low Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Twilight Zone
    Posts
    85
    WTF, this is really misleading, it was written clearly as amplifier and not amplified before the lines on the diagram reached a speaker symbol. Anyway u just need a line converter and they are cheap. I have nothing againts RR but I did a test on my friends and it goes something like this :
    1) In RR mode most of my friends will think that I'm using some high end HU.
    2) In normal win desktop everyone would go WOW! where is the computer?
    Check it out.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •