Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 41

Thread: Controlling LEDs through Car PC??

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate KaBoOoM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    117
    Quote Originally Posted by ModRT04 View Post
    Thanks guys. Shotgun, your everywhere man. I'm waiting to find a forum you're not on..haha but thanks for the help. I think I need a relay board to just turn the lights on and off. I don't see how LED's are going to be any different than Neons, since they both run off the same exact power supply as LEDs (before the power inverter ofcourse). What screws me up is the software part. I could probobly figure out a relay board (or pay someone to make one for me B-) ) but I have no idea where to stat a program to simply turn the power supplies ON and OFF. Pretty sad considering I'm a computer engineering major.
    I think one of the reasons neon lights, LED's, and etcetera might be different than a light bulb is because they work differently. Light bulbs don't really have a minimum voltage, they glow red when low and shine light when high. Neon lights may need a minimum voltage because they're plasma, not resistance wires.

    *Edit* Oh also on neon lights I think a transformer is used to bump the voltage up over a couple thousand volts, so I don't know how changing the voltage going in would affect that.

    Don't take my word for it though, that's just what comes to mind when I read that heh...
    -------
    I'm hungry

  2. #12
    Newbie RedOctober's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    11
    This might be a turnkey solution that's <$50:

    http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/i...roducts_id=239

    Have not used it myself, so I don't know if it's any good.

    They have another board to encode pushbuttons if you don't want to hack a keyboard, too.

  3. #13
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by KaBoOoM View Post
    I think one of the reasons neon lights, LED's, and etcetera might be different than a light bulb is because they work differently. Light bulbs don't really have a minimum voltage, they glow red when low and shine light when high. Neon lights may need a minimum voltage because they're plasma, not resistance wires.

    *Edit* Oh also on neon lights I think a transformer is used to bump the voltage up over a couple thousand volts, so I don't know how changing the voltage going in would affect that.

    Don't take my word for it though, that's just what comes to mind when I read that heh...
    That's what I was thinking of, if they have a strike voltage or not when they first turn on.

    Quote Originally Posted by ModRT04 View Post
    Thanks a ton. But just so I understand the basics of that board, you plug each of the power wires into a relay on the board. Then plug the board into the PC and write the software that tells the computer when to turn each relay on and off?
    Yeah, basically run power to it, then connect the parrallel port to it and open and close the relays to the various devices. You could use the following one too (cheaper)

    http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/i....f?category=35

    But there are a lot of kits like this (or DIY schematics).

    You just want to turn stuff on and off right?

  4. #14
    Maximum Bitrate Ruffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by RedOctober View Post
    This might be a turnkey solution that's <$50:

    http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/i...roducts_id=239

    Have not used it myself, so I don't know if it's any good.

    They have another board to encode pushbuttons if you don't want to hack a keyboard, too.
    that looks like the solution to everyones problem who wants easy controlled lighting/things in a car


    the software has two main screens. one pops up on top of the other. Here's a pic




    very, VERY interesting. If we could integrate the second screen it would be done. better if we can hide it and create a road runner skin. looks easy to do since it accepts commands sent to it.
    Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
    Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
    Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
    CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

  5. #15
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by Ruffy View Post
    that looks like the solution to everyones problem who wants easy controlled lighting/things in a car...
    Having spent time designing, coding, fabing PCBs, over and over again on my lighting project over the years, I can say it's not a bad deal at all.

    Though I doubt it's any good for anything but leds. Pretty sure those outputs won't drive a relay. If it's shunted, you could probably drive one using multiple outputs, but I doubt if those outputs are meant to supply more than 20ma each.

  6. #16
    Maximum Bitrate Ruffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by shotgunefx View Post
    Having spent time designing, coding, fabing PCBs, over and over again on my lighting project over the years, I can say it's not a bad deal at all.

    Though I doubt it's any good for anything but leds. Pretty sure those outputs won't drive a relay. If it's shunted, you could probably drive one using multiple outputs, but I doubt if those outputs are meant to supply more than 20ma each.
    according to the specs, if you wire it for power you can get 500ma per output, if its not powered it will share 500ma among all of the outputs(bleh)

    but powered it's more than enough for all our needs and then some.

    relays, lamps, many many lighting options are available with this now. It truly seems like the perfect solution for its given price.

    I'll be ordering one soon.
    Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
    Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
    Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
    CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

  7. #17
    Maximum Bitrate Ruffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    511
    Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
    Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
    Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
    CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

  8. #18
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    CTP, MI
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by shotgunefx View Post
    That's what I was thinking of, if they have a strike voltage or not when they first turn on.



    Yeah, basically run power to it, then connect the parrallel port to it and open and close the relays to the various devices. You could use the following one too (cheaper)

    http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/i....f?category=35

    But there are a lot of kits like this (or DIY schematics).

    You just want to turn stuff on and off right?
    That's exactly what I need, because it can control the 12v power supply. Now it says it has software that runs in windows, can I somehow skin that into my frontend (I don't have ne yet, so I guess what I'm asking is what front end is easiest to add software like this to?)

  9. #19
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    CTP, MI
    Posts
    6
    If I power it, that looks like it will work, I will be running 4 lines of 6 LED's each and a few more lines attached to some neons. I don't want to dim anything, just turn it on and off so this should be perfect. Now for the front end? Which front end can I use to tie the software into so I can easily control my lights from the front end? (The cops in my area give us about 2 seconds to turn them off or they turn on some lights of their own.)

  10. #20
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by Ruffy View Post
    according to the specs, if you wire it for power you can get 500ma per output, if its not powered it will share 500ma among all of the outputs(bleh)

    but powered it's more than enough for all our needs and then some.

    relays, lamps, many many lighting options are available with this now. It truly seems like the perfect solution for its given price.

    I'll be ordering one soon.
    Guess I should have read it

    Definitely handy. If they had them when I started my lighting project, I probably wouldn't have. I probably would have just used a few of those.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. In a real PC car struggle
    By markland556 in forum Off Topic
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 06-27-2007, 11:36 AM
  2. A Bodgy Car PC.
    By Bodgy in forum Show off your project
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 02-05-2007, 10:58 PM
  3. New to Car PC, here is my setup.
    By BarinaHum in forum Newbie
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-06-2006, 08:16 PM
  4. First install of car pc working :)
    By optip in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-09-2006, 07:13 PM
  5. Custom Dash with car pc status leds
    By M^ck^y in forum General MP3Car Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-08-2004, 12:03 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •