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Thread: Controlling LEDs through Car PC??

  1. #21
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    hey shotgun, I know you were having some trouble moving your HVAC. Did you ever think to reroute the airvents and use that space for the screen?

  2. #22
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ModRT04 View Post
    hey shotgun, I know you were having some trouble moving your HVAC. Did you ever think to reroute the airvents and use that space for the screen?
    Wouldn't want to lose the vents nor have it that high profile. It's not so much what to do, more a matter of time.

    The quick option would be this

    But more realistically, when I get around to it, servos to operate the cables and probably some relays to replace the blower switch.

  3. #23
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    So I was really intrigued by the LED-Wiz that was posted...took a look and noticed a few things.

    A) most LEDs used in a car are 12v LEDs. They have a resister built in that knocks the voltage down from 12 to whatever the LED needs.

    B) most LEDs designed to be used in cars come with sires already attached, unlike the LEDs that this board would need to use. What this means is that to wire up the raw LEDs to get them to work with this board, you're in for one heck of an exercise in soldering wire to a really thin leg of that LED numerous times over. To provide enough output to lite up the under side of an amp, you need around 20-30 LEDs to give it an even glow where you can't see the source of the lite. That's on about an average size amp.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it's not possible to use this device, only warning of the work that's going to be involved.

    If we could find something that was more geared towards useable LEDs it would be even better!
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  4. #24
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    Red, you can buy 5V LEDs >>>

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/free_uk_deli...Types_2054.htm

    Basically the same as 12V LEDs for used in car except that it has a built in resistor that it would work straight off a 5V supply.

  5. #25
    Maximum Bitrate Ruffy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    So I was really intrigued by the LED-Wiz that was posted...took a look and noticed a few things.

    A) most LEDs used in a car are 12v LEDs. They have a resister built in that knocks the voltage down from 12 to whatever the LED needs.

    B) most LEDs designed to be used in cars come with sires already attached, unlike the LEDs that this board would need to use. What this means is that to wire up the raw LEDs to get them to work with this board, you're in for one heck of an exercise in soldering wire to a really thin leg of that LED numerous times over. To provide enough output to lite up the under side of an amp, you need around 20-30 LEDs to give it an even glow where you can't see the source of the lite. That's on about an average size amp.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it's not possible to use this device, only warning of the work that's going to be involved.

    If we could find something that was more geared towards useable LEDs it would be even better!
    Several Issues

    A) Most LEDs designed for in car use are already affixed to a bulb base such as a 194 base. This product is for raw LEDS. meaning no need to mess with that.

    B) Adding a resistor to each LED is not hard, not even that time consuming. Unless you have poor eyesight or the wrong tools. On top of that you can wire a string of them with one resistor.

    C) Who says it has to only be used with LEDS? It supports relays allowing you to control a vast array of equipment. Why use 30 LEDS when one CCFL can be used.

    D) Get better leds, use a reflective backing, and aim them properly. I've lit up an entire amp with 6 LEDS. I first tried 20 and it was two bright.

    E) By using Raw LEDS you overcome the 12v/automotive lamp problem. It's alot easier and cheaper to get 5V Bright LEDS than one of those bulbs. I know I replaced all the 194 and Festoon bulbs in my car with LED ones.
    Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
    Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
    Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
    CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

  6. #26
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    So I was really intrigued by the LED-Wiz that was posted...took a look and noticed a few things.

    A) most LEDs used in a car are 12v LEDs. They have a resister built in that knocks the voltage down from 12 to whatever the LED needs.

    B) most LEDs designed to be used in cars come with sires already attached, unlike the LEDs that this board would need to use. What this means is that to wire up the raw LEDs to get them to work with this board, you're in for one heck of an exercise in soldering wire to a really thin leg of that LED numerous times over. To provide enough output to lite up the under side of an amp, you need around 20-30 LEDs to give it an even glow where you can't see the source of the lite. That's on about an average size amp.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it's not possible to use this device, only warning of the work that's going to be involved.

    If we could find something that was more geared towards useable LEDs it would be even better!
    I know what you mean but it's not that bad with a little practice. Right now I have about 20 RGB leds (so it's really ~60 as there are 3 in one package), there are tricks to make it easier.

    Soldering normally is a pain and if the wire is not wrapped around the lead, it tends to fling off molten solder as it's flowing or reflowing, almost got one in my eye (Goggles FTW), The second time around I went with Molex KK connectors myself, but they actually make non-solder leads meant for regular 2 lead leds. Just didn't have any for 4 lead ones.

    http://www.vcclite.com/conxrite.htm (Probably expensive though, I'd just use Molex KK)

    Wirewrapping also works well, the trick is to find a bigger tool. You can wire wrap an led with some kynar wire in no time. I'd try and find a 24-26ga one instead of the more common 30ga though.

    If that controller can put out 500ma per output, he could use some higher powered leds (like Luxeons or the knockoff ones) and get some decent light output.

    Another way to make it easier would be to run clusters of lights together in parallel on some perf board with preferably individual resistors or if lazy, one resistor but the light won't be as consistant.

    It would be trivial to plant 20 leds on a piece of perf board.

  7. #27
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    nice link! I've bookmarked it for sure...however, how do you handle A?

    have you found 5v DC LEDs? The LEDs on that site are 2-2.5v.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  8. #28
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    http://www.phidgets.com/index.php?mo...3.24.90&IID=52

    Something else I just came across...haven't searched on here yet to see if it's been posted.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  9. #29
    Maximum Bitrate Ruffy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    http://www.phidgets.com/index.php?mo...3.24.90&IID=52

    Something else I just came across...haven't searched on here yet to see if it's been posted.
    I considered the phidget long ago but left it for several reasons.

    A) It's expensive.

    B) 100mA power per port

    C) No detailed specs on it available. Sure theres software manuals and apis, but I could care less if I dont know what Im getting.

    It is natively supported by road runner, So thats nice. But I would rather prefer the LED-Wiz
    Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
    Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
    Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
    CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

  10. #30
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    nice link! I've bookmarked it for sure...however, how do you handle A?

    have you found 5v DC LEDs? The LEDs on that site are 2-2.5v.
    LEDs have a forward voltage, (the voltage at which they light), but there aren't 5v leds per se (or any other volt).

    Red LEDs usually have a forward voltage of 2 - 2.5v, green/blue/red ones between 3 - 4v. You need a resistor to limit the current (Unless you are using some constant current power supply). Even putting a 2.5v red led on a 2.5v power supply, otherwise, it will burn out.

    When you get 12v leds, they are just leds with a resistor sized to limit the current.

    Here's a good online calc for LEDs. (There is also one for parallel setups)

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

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