Combined remote / Qwerty keyboard Girder code.

I'm using it to control programs on my PC, not for file transfers etc.

The Girder program allows me to control Winamp, my CarPc software, my DVD software, gives me cursor control(mouse) and the QWERTY keybord allows me to enter keys, Post Codes for my GPS software for example.

BTW I dont use a Laptop its a full desk PC just a very small one.

The desk top unit connect to a serial port. In my case I also had my printer port spare so I used that for a second IR channel and its this that I use to get the mouse control / all the front keys on the remote.

Hope this makes it clearer.

John

Just ordered mine (without settop receiver). I will be trying out with Mastero's IR receiver and post results.

I got mine on the mail today and I downloaded the help file from Nemesis (Thanks!!). But, I have a question about the connector:
Would a gender changer work? (like this one )
http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro.../26/26-231.jpg

or, I would still need somthing like this to change the pins?
http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...6/276-1403.jpg
Thanks for the help!!

The top one shown on you post certainly does do all pins so may well work.

The bottom one is a 25 way so definitely wont.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nemesis

The top one shown on you post certainly does do all pins so may well work.

The bottom one is a 25 way so definitely wont.

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Thanks Nemesis. Ok, now I got the gender changer so the receiver is connected to my computer. I loaded the plugins and the file with all the comands, but I am not getting anything.
I notice that when you changed the gender in your connector you also changed some of the pins:
yellow to brown
brown to yellow
black to green, and
green to black
Is this necessary? also do I need to power the receiver with 12V? I dont want to fry the thing.
Thanks for your help Nemesis.

Quote:

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also do I need to power the receiver with 12V? I dont want to fry the thing.
Thanks for your help Nemesis.

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You are correct. You need a 12 v powersupply rated for atleast 50 mh (nearly everything 12 volt will be more than that.) I happened to fine a power supply that had the right plug and was rated 50 mh in a box of old wireless mics, so you never know where you might fine the right one. Good luck hunting for one!

Yes you certainly do have to power the reciever, mine came with a small 12V 50mA mains power supply.

The unit has a regulator built in so you wont fry it providing you get the connections right, center pin = positive(+12V).

Do this first and see what you get on the serial port, use something like Hyperterm to see if you are getting any data if you are unsure.

Thanks guys you are great!!. I will have to make a trip to radio shack to get the adapter. I also emaild the guy that I got the remote from (ebay) and he said that did not send the power supply because it is 240V and 3 connectors (UK standard) and that is of not use here (US)
I will post results

I just got my remote, and am playing with nemesis's girder file, I got shift working more properly.

Instead of having the shifts act like Caps Lock buttons, I made it so when you press shift, the next button pressed is shifted, then the shift unsets, and all characters typed after are lowercase, until shift is pressed again. It works fairly well, and feels more like normal typing.

One thing im having trouble with is the signal time of the remote.. it seems so slow, I use another remote (rca universal) with my infrared receiver, and it works very well.. instant response, the On Digital remote is so sluggish (and the sluggishness is sporadic, to add to the frustration!), its bad enough that I won't use it on my carpc, since it would be the main means of navigation, having it sluggish and inaccurate is not acceptable. I notice sometimes, it doesn't recognize key presses, and sometimes stops repeating the signal when you hold the button down.. (Like for raising the volume) It's like the remote changes the code when you hold it down, jumps all over with what its transmitting... this would cause the problems I'm experiencing, I think?. The problem is much much much worse on the numeric side of the remote.. the side which I'd be using most... =\ (The problem is pretty much non-existant on the qwerty side)

I'm working with girder on making the blue button switch the directional pad between controlling the mouse with select as click, and controlling the arrow keys with select as enter. Maybe I can even make the mouse cursor hide when cursor control is inactive. This control method will be optimum for me, since I want to use the directional pad to navigate my program, but also want mouse control should I need it.

Am I the only one noticing the problems I'm having, or is something wrong with my settings..

Using the Toshiba setting (906) I've managed to map every single button on the remote.. If I can just fix this sluggish and inaccurate signal I'll be kicking it up in style. :cool:

Also, I found an excellent source for old female D-Sub 9 Pin serial connectors, with 6 foot lead wires none the less!

Old sega genesis controllers. :)