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Thread: Custom Car Schematic- Help?

  1. #1
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    Custom Car Schematic- Help?

    Hello everyone! Let me start off by apologizing if this is not in the correct forum, I found this to be its best fit, but again, I'm sorry if it is not.

    I recently got a 2000 audi a4, and here's what I've been working on a carputer and many other mods. Attached is the schematic I made. I used a vector based program, so feel free to zoom in anywhere as much as you'd like. The main component I have illustrated here is in the center console, in which I will relocate the ignition, here's the idea....

    I'll be wiring a connect2car into my car, and creating my own remote starter based off this system. When the c2c gets the signal, it opens a circuit. This circuit runs into a micro-controller which is rigged to the gearbox, in order to ensure that the car is in neutral, in addition, it will also test if the e-brake is on. If both these conditions are true, then the car is auto-switched to ACC Mode (for up to 10 minutes) and the car is started via a standard car start button.

    Upon arriving at the car, if it is running, you simply turn the ignition to ACC, opening a connection that would previously be turned off in 10 minutes (and unlocking the steering wheel).

    If I arrive at the car, the car not being started, I turn the ignition to ACC, and press my finger to a fingerprint reader, which will be wired to the same standard starter.

    Right now this is my number one priority, I'll be adding to my schematic, lining all the lights and explaining all my work, right now I'd really like some advice as to whether this will work well/how to make it better.


    Anyone with something positive to say, I'd love to hear from you!!

    Schematic

    Shcematic Key


    Thanks!
    -Nate

    **Edit
    I've just updated the schematic, for any of those watching my progress. Thanks for all the responses!

  2. #2
    FLAC
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    A couple of things I noticed. First I'm going to assume your use of the word "open" above means "to enable" or "send power to", as an electrician of sorts that confused me, but easy enough to overcome.

    Here are the rest of my observations:

    Are you using magnetic or contact switches on the shift mechanism to determine neutral? I did that once, it worked out well for me, I used magnetic switches.

    I'm concerned about your use of "ACC", if you try to start the car (power to starter) with the key in ACC (i.e. that yellow/black wire on the ignition switch has power, thus powering the load reduction relay (HVAC, lighting, etc) the car wont run. There is a seperate position in the switch that powers the big black wire, which is "RUN". that wire needs power in order to run due to turning the starter. And dont forget about the red-wired "key in ignition" contact switch in the ignition switch that powers things like the radio and the instrument cluster.

    I'd also trace that red/black wire, or meter it to see if it doesn't already give a neutral safety signal you can use.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Thanks a lot for your input, I wasn't really sure how to do the gearbox work, but now that you've mentioned a magnetic approach I'll have to look into it more.

    As far as the ignition goes, I'm also very glad you spoke about this, because I was going off how I sort of assumed it worked (2 wires for AC, 2 for ACC, and 1 to connect to the starter , and connected in another fashion). But as I've never taken apart/looked at an ignition, I was expecting to be wrong. Can you think of any easy way I could modify my set up as it is now to fix the problem you mentioned?

    Thanks again!!!
    -Nate

  4. #4
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsgrossman View Post
    Thanks a lot for your input, I wasn't really sure how to do the gearbox work, but now that you've mentioned a magnetic approach I'll have to look into it more.
    Check out this thread where I wrote about the switches I used, they are great for the job.

    Quote Originally Posted by nsgrossman View Post
    As far as the ignition goes, I'm also very glad you spoke about this, because I was going off how I sort of assumed it worked (2 wires for AC, 2 for ACC, and 1 to connect to the starter , and connected in another fashion). But as I've never taken apart/looked at an ignition, I was expecting to be wrong. Can you think of any easy way I could modify my set up as it is now to fix the problem you mentioned?

    Thanks again!!!
    -Nate
    I'd take the easy route and buy a stand-alone remote start module (one of the DIY ones) hornet or boa?? I can't remember. The one I'm thinking about has an external-start-input wire that you can wire to the fingerprint reader and the c2c (which if I may add, I'd dump for a fusion brain any day of the week)

    Anyway, those remote start modules are inexpensive and allow you to take advantage of a working solution with support. You can do all of this using one.

    They also integrate some of the interlocking and other safety features that I'm just too tired to sort out right now.

  5. #5
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    I've never heard of the fusion brain actually, but I totally get that gear box idea now, thanks.

    I didn't know you could get remote starters with inputs, so that mite actually change my mind on that one. I kinda like doing things myself, just so that when they brake I know what's wrong and how to fix it, so whenever I'm thinking about how to do something that's always my approach. I mite have to rethink the idea of a pre-assembled remote starter, I also hate having hook them up, its just so much simpler when I know what's going on, not to mention it will do exactly what I want rather then kinda what I want (in theory )

    Again, thanks so much for your help and input!

    -Nate

  6. #6
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    hey everyone, I updated the schematic if you're interested. Thanks again for the replies!

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