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Thread: Button interface to Bordmonitor on BMW E39 and E46

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Have not read you log, but I will.

    The board will output keypresses on ibus just as the OEM does. As far I understand it will be completely compatible with OEM for this reason, but this has not been verified. Maybe you can do that :-)

    The OEM baord covers the entire width of the door, and contains analogue LCD panel controller as well as button interface. By the use of a board like mine or Art's you can get rid of that OEM board and for E39 that is absolutely nessessary to be able to get anything else in there. It makes E46 conversion much easier too. Not only cdo you free space for your own screen, but you also loose the flatcable from the door to the house. All you need is three wires, power and ibus. This makes it much easier to fit your own flat cable in there for your own LCD driver board.

    Don't know how much power Art's board takes, but mine takes 2mA and can be powered on at all times. No need to handle polling of BM etc. The buttons works all the time!

    If you also build a board like my "dash pcb" that will drive LCD LED backlight (dimmed by ibus dash illumination messages) and the door motor you can loose the OEM pcb inside the house too. It can also "press" eject on a DVD drive so that DVD is ejected when door has fully opened.

    Maybe then it is even possible to fit the PC in there too....;-)

  2. #12
    FLAC sama's Avatar
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    I'll be following your unbelievable enthusiasm with great enthusiasm!

  3. #13
    FLAC sama's Avatar
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    So I've taken my board monitor apart and had a good look inside. I can see why you're doing this and I think I have to do the same now too!

    I have the Bluetooth in the car however and I'm wondering if there's a way to keep the LED's for that?

  4. #14
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    The LED's are controlled by iBus, so there is no difference there. At least the board I make will support all LED's. I think Art's is too.

  5. #15
    FLAC sama's Avatar
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    Excellent! Now I want it!

    If I was to fit my LCD controller with the screen, I'd need power, VGA, video (reverse camera) and ibus to go to the back of the panel. Could I do what BMW have done and use a flat cable to carry all of those, including enough juice to power the LCD? I know a bit about electronics but I'm not amazing at soldering.

    I'm thinking, the RGsB to VGA adaptor (verified this works now) can be put inside the back of the board monitor, taking the RGB lines directly from the boardmonitor connector and giving a VGA signal to the new higher res LCD. Final piece of the puzzle would be to add an ibus activated VGA switcher (maybe it can pretend it's the CD player or something), which would then switch to the external VGA/Video inputs. Add VGA and Phono plugs on the back of the board monitor and voila... BoardMonitor++ ready for an use!

  6. #16
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    In fact the LED's will be dimmed according to dash lights... ;-)

    I put the electronics in the BM house and bought a longer flatcable to interface the LCD panel. No VGA, etc to the door. Depends on what panel and controller you use what is best. Kraimer has done what you are talking about, so have a look at his pics.

  7. #17
    FLAC sama's Avatar
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    Hurry and finish

    Thanks for the link to Kraimer's work. I had a look and it's a very good idea that he's used the empty space in the board monitor to place a spring that pull back the thick VGA cable. I may resort to that but look what I found!



    I'm thinking to use 2 of these to carry the VGA and the TS USB/POWER on other cable. Do you think if I used multiple lines for the power, that it would enough to power a screen?

  8. #18
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Flat cables are a lot better if you can use that instead of the round cables! Looks great!
    I think the backlight is the biggest consumer, and that is 200mA or so on 12V. Check spec on cable you use, but yes, using a few lines is probably enough.

    Separating ground for backlight would be great for noise immunity too.

  9. #19
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    After finalizing the code and the electronical design I now must give up the idee of having the same pcb for both E39 and E46 :-(
    I made the embarrasing misstake of missing two big holes on each side that are required in E46. It is not only that the space for components is reduced, it is also that one of the big holes have to be where a smaller hole is required from E39. Impossible in other words.
    I will now make a third prototype, E46 only...
    Even if code is complete and electronics verified I guess I've just lost 200€ and 1 month...

  10. #20
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    "I've Not Failed, I've Found 10,000 Ways That Don't Work" - Thomas Edison

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