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Thread: Will this work?

  1. #11
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    What kind of control do you have for the airbags right now? Have you checked to see how that works?

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by Civic Modz View Post
    About running 12v through the nes controller, are you just simply applying power to the buttons, and not the internal circuit (if there is one).
    Yea im not using any of the internal circuit peices in the controller just the lines that run in through the buttons..

    I have a fusion brain running off a computer inside the cab that runs relays on and off that power airbag solenoids..

    so i wanted to run 6 relays as shown in that diagram which will then forward on to the other relays, which then power the bag solenoids. but after hearing from you guys.. im hoping i could run the 12v straight thru the nes controller.. to my 6 relays then forwarding on a stronger 12v signal to the other relays which can draw more thru there.

    just curious to what sort of signal most usual relays need to trigger, as im sure that whatever i can run thru the nes controller should be enough?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Civic Modz View Post
    The only problem I can see is that you will have an issue powering the relays directly though the buttons. The on resistance of these button can be quite high and is unlikely that they will power the relays directly. In this case you will need a seperate relay driver such as a transistor or the ever so popular ULN2003. You might also need to debounce your buttons, but that really depends on the device you are trying to control with the relays.

    About running 12v through the nes controller, are you just simply applying power to the buttons, and not the internal circuit (if there is one).
    Huh? Its a basic switch....no circuitry...minimal resistance... No need for debounce or any of that-were dealing with relays here not micro-controllers.

  4. #14
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    The relay coil requires the rated current at the rated volts. The contacts can pass the rated amps at the rated volts. i.e. Bosch coil is around 150mA @ 12V

    The NES controller uses tactile switches which are normally rated at 50mA max, so they'll arc and fill with carbon quickly.

    An NES to PC adapter would be nicer way to do it. Decode the output and control the FB.

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate Sleepyz0mby's Avatar
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    there are nes controllers that are already modded to plug into a usb port for ~25$

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate
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    i dont want it to be attached to the pc, i want it direct straight from accessories power so it can be used whenever, not from the power and actions of the pc.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curiosity View Post
    The relay coil requires the rated current at the rated volts. The contacts can pass the rated amps at the rated volts. i.e. Bosch coil is around 150mA @ 12V

    The NES controller uses tactile switches which are normally rated at 50mA max, so they'll arc and fill with carbon quickly.

    An NES to PC adapter would be nicer way to do it. Decode the output and control the FB.
    Thats a good point.... I was pretty sure the NES controller would be good for ~500mA (I think its a traditional pushbutton not a tactile/micro switch) but if your right then yea you will get carbon build-up.

    Edit:
    I take that back:
    http://claymore.engineer.gvsu.edu/~k...e/100_0519.JPG
    Looks like it is a 50mA limit

  8. #18
    Constant Bitrate Sleepyz0mby's Avatar
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    ok sorry i wasnt aware that u didnt want to use the pc

    soooooo... are we planing on decoding the 4021 or guttin it ? (it=nes controller)

  9. #19
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    .. Well here,s a schematic of the 4021 if you want to interface it to a micro. I suppose it will save you hacking the controller i guess. The timing diagram is also shown, and there's enough info to connect it directly to a micro.

  10. #20
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Oh, that looks like metalized rubber. I don't think it would take much at all to burn those things up. The only problem with gutting it is you have to use another cable with at least what 8 wires? Using a micro would be the best choice and allow for more features, but he may not be able to. The output is pretty simple with a latch, data, and clock so it may be possible to drive a shift register with minimal support like http://www.st.com/stonline/products/...re/ds/1989.pdf then drive the ULN2803A or something, then relays or MOSFETs. It's definitely not going to be simple.

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