Unless your use of DAC means something other than digital-analogue-converter, then it is not a dac. It is a purely digital stream, no analogue conversion process anywhere.
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Unless your use of DAC means something other than digital-analogue-converter, then it is not a dac. It is a purely digital stream, no analogue conversion process anywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
really, you're driving the speakers with a digital signal, guess my dog may be able to hear it...
Yes. That is what pulse width modulation is. It is a time based digital signal. If you want to get picky, there is no such thing as digital at all, just an analogue voltage with ideally two discrete points.
Any Class D amplifier does the same thing. It is not driving it with a sine wave, but a series of timed pulses.
didn't know that's how a class d worked, so am I correct that the times pulses are at different amplitude in the shape of a sine wave?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
Nope. It is a single output voltage. Although the topology I am using will have a variable output stage for higher power. So if it cannot produce the power needed without clipping, it will step the voltage output higher to compensate and then bring it back down to save power.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveDog
You can think of it as the longer the pulse is "on", the higher voltage the speaker sees. Not really, but it will work to try and imagine it.
a quick trip over to wikipedia got me squared away. Very interesting, it appears your design will eliminate a pair of digital to audio conversions that take place in current setups (if you are using a typical D class amp)Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
Sounds good, we'll see what features shake out and I may just buy a couple, would work for my truck with line out pass thru (unfortunately a D to A conversion) and would work in my boat with the same and a manual volume control, would work in my car without either (my lowest powered system, no subs)
Exactly. Most designs go from a digital signal in a computer to a low level analogue output. Then transfers via a cable where the analogue signals picks up who knows what distortion and interference into an amplifier. If it is an analogue amp like A or AB, then it will amplify those errors too. If it is a class D, then you are taking that erroneous converted signal and converting it again before amplifying it and sending it out.
i´m interested too. If design and quality good, I see good chances within european market.
As far as footprint goes, I think something that will fit underneath a seat, so in the same size range as the usual 4x50W amps would be about right.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
But, given we are computer geeks, why not try to make them a little more interesting? Rather than a box, make part of the shell a finned heatsink (I know, the normal amps use the shell as a heatsink, but I mean make it finned, give it some design!!!).
But definitely count me in, I currently have a Sony 4x50W RMS amp, but I need to add a sub, and this would probably be the same price as me buying the monoblock amp for the sub.
Just a question, if it is a USB audio device as well as the amp, would that mean it would support doing frequency splitting / crossovers? For instance, could I limit the output of certain frequencies to certain speakers?
If it makes the design too expensive, then don't worry about it, but just not sure how that kind of thing would work! (Not an audio guy!).
Also, as someone else requested, a hard wired volume knob would be really handy, because then I could ditch the stupid volume bar and buttons from out of centrafuse, and work on getting the most from screen real estate. Plus, a hardware knob would give you quick, easy, non touchscreen control on the sound. Hopefully it wouldn't add too much onto the price either?
I am planning on this having much more power than 50w per channel. High power, extreme accuracy, extreme simplicity. The ultimate sound device.