hey i was just looking at the info tht u provided and my comps power supply and i have some questions
Originally Posted by Nicorolla
1) wts up with the serial port device
2) is pin 8 same as pin that i have on power suppy saying p8 which connects to lines coming to my dvd player.
3) where you says to pin 8 on comp 1 where does that wire go plz expain
thanks a lot in the advance
really appropriate all the help
1)The serial port is to have this circuit emulate a UPS to get the computer to shut down.
Originally Posted by jatt1188
2) NO! He said serial port and he meant serial port.
3) It does not say pin 8 on "comp 1" it says "COM 1" as in COMmunications port 1, as in the first serial port.
Any IDEA for making 12V 18Amp Regulated Supply. DC-DC i meant.
Originally Posted by awace
12V 18A DC-DC converter
As to the post from Chairboy, you can parallel 78xx regulators of a fixed voltage, but it requires a balancing resistor network to take out any inequalities in between the individual regulators. You could make an active network but it becomes very tricky very quickly the more regulators you add.
Originally Posted by ammo8600
Are you sure you really need 18A? that's some heavy current for a regulator. I would look around for converters to see if any companies already make something of that power level first.
That said if you are really dead set on making your own DC-DC converter:
Considering that you can't always guarantee that the voltage in your car will be above 12V (as in the case of a partially discharged battery/bad alternator/ car not running) the best converter type would be what is called a SEPIC converter. They are somewhat hard to build for the power level you are asking for, but not impossible.
If you don't mind the idea that there could be some situations where you wouldn't have regulated +12V, then you need a Buck converter.
I would recommend looking up Buck, Boost, Buck-Boost, SEPIC, and Cuk on Wikipedia. There are some articles on each type of converter, a basic schematic and both general and semi-in-depth descriptions of both the designs and how they function.
But just from my experience, an 18A Buck converter would be easier to make from both a design and parts stand point (SEPIC converters require a "linked inductor" which can be difficult to find at high current levels). So the question is do you really need that much power and do you need/want it to be able to run under the conditions above.
If you want to know any more or have a discussion about this more in depth, PM me.
alpine TME-M680EM 8 pin
hi,i bought a alpine TME-M680EM,i want connect to pc but cable doesn't fit.Please help
Last edited by fkaraot; 07-10-2011 at 07:18 AM.
Hibernating Windows XP through the serial port, no additional software requried.
This is an easy way to hibernate a PC running XP using the serial port. Please see the diagram.
I need to do something which I am sure has already been done by others before. I have a Thin Client PC with an SSD running XP so it boots in 10 secs.
When I turn the car ignition to ON, I want to short the ATX On/Off PC switch to turn the PC on and then, when I turn the ignition to OFF, I again want to short the ATX On/Off PC switch to then shutdown the PC. I had hoped to use the diagram in post #21 but I have NO Power Options in the PC BIOS so I cannot resume the PC on power restore.
So the plan is to use Standard Automotive Relays and send a One Second 12v burst to a Relay to simulate the pushing of the ATX On/Off PC switch (like shorting the Green / Black wires to the front On/Off panel). Can anyone please guide me on how this could be achieved with maybe a combination of Relays and resistors ?
Last edited by championc; 01-17-2013 at 09:45 AM.