To test it out, i used the usbmod with the serial drivers, using the same schematic. I haven't spent too much time working on a serial only schematic.Originally Posted by forden
yes, these are female plugs, so you can just use regular 4 conductor telephone wire, like for the rest of the V1 accessories.
- Concerning your last schematics update, could you plz confirm me that twice RJ11 pics on it need to be female RJ11 plugs ?
There are some really ugly, small pics attached. I plan to make a prettier version, and post up nice pics.
- Could you take pics from this schematic already done ?
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3904.pdf print that out and take it into your electronics shop, they should be able to find something similar. A 2n4401 or NTE 123AP should work well too.- My local electronic shop couldn't have 2N3904 before a very very long time, and online "elect. parts" offer in France is very poor... So, wassup with your pretty nice idea of selling it already mount ? )
It will be at least 3 weeks, if everything goes well. Once I get it all finalized, I will let everyone know.
I have noticed a lot more noise in the signal running the software in my car, than running it in my house. I never get any errors when I have it hooked up to my computer inside, with the V1 hooked up to ac-dc power suplly plugged into the wall.*PS : When I use TTL2USB (+ V1 plug ) with the other already existing "SoftOne" software, it doesn't works.... Maybe my V1 cables are too long, or a part is a non-official V1 ( just phone RJ11 cable )... Do you think that your schematic+soft would be affected too by one of those pb ?
Thanks a lot.
Forden, looking for a cheap car PC to begin
In the car, there are some glitches, but it is usually only an extra bit lit here or there. I have put some new filtering features in the latest build (not yet up, sorry) that checks the incoming signal to make sure it makes sense.