To test it out, i used the usbmod with the serial drivers, using the same schematic. I haven't spent too much time working on a serial only schematic.Originally Posted by forden
yes, these are female plugs, so you can just use regular 4 conductor telephone wire, like for the rest of the V1 accessories.
- Concerning your last schematics update, could you plz confirm me that twice RJ11 pics on it need to be female RJ11 plugs ?
There are some really ugly, small pics attached. I plan to make a prettier version, and post up nice pics.
- Could you take pics from this schematic already done ?
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3904.pdf print that out and take it into your electronics shop, they should be able to find something similar. A 2n4401 or NTE 123AP should work well too.- My local electronic shop couldn't have 2N3904 before a very very long time, and online "elect. parts" offer in France is very poor... So, wassup with your pretty nice idea of selling it already mount ?)
It will be at least 3 weeks, if everything goes well. Once I get it all finalized, I will let everyone know.
I have noticed a lot more noise in the signal running the software in my car, than running it in my house. I never get any errors when I have it hooked up to my computer inside, with the V1 hooked up to ac-dc power suplly plugged into the wall.*PS : When I use TTL2USB (+ V1 plug ) with the other already existing "SoftOne" software, it doesn't works.... Maybe my V1 cables are too long, or a part is a non-official V1 ( just phone RJ11 cable )... Do you think that your schematic+soft would be affected too by one of those pb ?
Thanks a lot.
Forden, looking for a cheap car PC to begin![]()
In the car, there are some glitches, but it is usually only an extra bit lit here or there. I have put some new filtering features in the latest build (not yet up, sorry) that checks the incoming signal to make sure it makes sense.



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some photos would be most appreciated too

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