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Thread: Power up/down with unlock/lock remote

  1. #1
    Newbie Chainjack's Avatar
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    Power up/down with unlock/lock remote

    I'm a newbie and was wondering if anyone had thought to do this or figured it out already. Here's the idea:

    When you unlock the car with your car remote the pc starts to boot, thereby reducing your percieved boot time.
    When you lock the car with the remote, the pc hibernates or powers down.
    Also, when you turn off your car for a short time (get gas/quick trip) your PC will stay powered on for a specified time unless you lock it. Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Low Bitrate Daley's Avatar
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    I'm planning to do the same thing.. I haven't figured it out yet, but then I haven't put in a ton of thought either.. I'm thinking a 555 timer would give that 'delay' between lock and unlock - anyone got any thoughts/comments/advice/warnings?
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  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate vxcarpc's Avatar
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    I have a little remote that I keep on my keyring that opperates a few meters away from the car and can power up before i get in the car.

    Coolermaster was the brand but I beleive they don't make them anymore.. a little RF remote control unit.
    CAR INFO HERE
    "He who dies with the most toys, wins".

  4. #4
    FLAC djmickyg's Avatar
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    most dc-dc power supplies will do a delayed shut down which will solve the getting fule issue

    for the on with the remote. im planning this.
    ive got a pulse triggered realy with the delayed stwitch off..
    im gonna use the central locking pulse to triger it..

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate
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    ooh, I had that same idea. I wonder if there's a wire somewhere that is high/low when all of the doors are locked, maybe for hooking up security systems?

  6. #6
    Low Bitrate Daley's Avatar
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    All aftermarket alarms (that I've seen at least) have a wire (usually orange) that will power the starter-interrupt relay when armed.. This in conjunction with the delay of the aforementioned PSU's might just solve this.. Too bad I had to get a little tipsy to figure this out
    To find your favorite restaurants in Houston, check out http://www.thehubgrub.com.

    If it's not fun, you're not doing it right!

  7. #7
    Newbie Chainjack's Avatar
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    I talked to my friend that owns a car stereo shop http://www.undergroundaudio.biz (shameless plug since he's helping me out) and he said that all cars are wired differently for the remote door locks. However, he said that as long as the you know how it is wired, you can get a relay to send a signal to the PSU or computer and get it to wake up/boot up

  8. #8
    FLAC djmickyg's Avatar
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    most alarms have the central locking trigor, which maybe -ve for up and +ve for down (or visa vrsa)
    the pulse relay i got is seletable to trigor on - or +, so when i work out whats the triggor for the locks to go up.. hook in the realy trigor wire to that. and then it will switch the power line on for the psu which will switch off the pc

    also the pulse realy i have will turn of after 30-90 sec's

  9. #9
    Variable Bitrate
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    I use a Carnetix P1280 power supply. This takes an ignition feed to determine when power should be provided to the PC. It also has a pulse input to allow the system to be powered up and shut down when the ignition is not switched on.

    In order to control this I have one of these;

    http://www.electronic-kits-and-projects.com/3157.htm

    My install occurred in two steps but I think the first step is kinda deprecated due to the second thing I did, although I still use both implementations.

    First, I set one of the relays to momentary mode, and hooked it up to the pulse connection. This allows me to press a button on the keyfob and cause the PC to begin booting from outside the car (this is independant of whether the car is locked). I use this for maintenance on the wireless network as well as to "shorten" boot time when I'm going to drive the car away (I remember to press it about 20% of the time maybe).

    After using the Car PC for a while, I got fed up of having to wait for it to resume after getting petrol, or taking the car out of the Garage without first locking the front door to my house. I therefore implemented an ignition override. This was done by putting the second relay in toggle mode. When toggled on, it moves the carnetix ignition wire from the actual ignition connection to a permanent 12v. The gap is so small between the two that the power supply ignores it and continues as though ignition is on.

    So when I want petrol, I toggle the relay on, get petrol and then toggle it off again after I restart the engine. This keeps the Car PC booted while the engine is off. You could do the same thing with a manual switch but I didn't want to mount anything new on the dash.

    The first option is now deprecated because switching the ignition input to +12v appears the same to the power supply as switching the ignition on with the key. Note though that I am *not* putting 12v on the ignition line as this results in the ignition itself coming on - I am switching the ignition wire out and putting a 12v in. i.e. the ignition is on the NC contact of the relay and +12v is on the NO contact. The ignition input to the Carnetix is on the common connection.

    An interesting step would be to use a serial port relay card and put a button on the touch screen so that I can press the touch screen at the petrol station instead of the keyfob, but of course this means the PC must be fully booted for it to work.

    I prefer to have bootup separate from door locks since I often want to be in the car but not have the PC boot because I'm not going to drive it.

  10. #10
    Variable Bitrate Evolution VIII's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    I have developed a device that can work with your original keyless entry/factory alarm or with the aftermarket alarm.


    1. When you disarm your alarm or open your car with a remote, the device sends signal to your computers **power supply to initiate boot sequence, and delayed signal to your amplifier.


    2. If you did not turn ignition or start the car within *15 minutes, it will cut the signal to your amplifier and computers **power supply to initiate shut-down sequence.

    3. After you turn-on and then turn-off the ignition, it will wait *15 minutes and will first cut the signal to your amplifier and to the computers **power supply to initiate shut-down sequence.

    4. If you use your remote to lock the car, it will immediately cut the signal to your amplifier and to computers **power supply to initiate shut-down sequence.

    5. Optional 5VDC 6A power output to power 5V devices like USB2.0 hub and/or external CD/DVD ROM

    The timer is adjustable from 1 to 15 minutes.
    The amplifier signal delay is adjustable from 0 to 40 seconds.
    Works with all power supplies which accepts +12v boot-up signal


    The device is very easy to wire.

    Four wires Input:
    1. +12v Battery
    2. +12v Ignition
    3. +12v keyless/alarm signal pulse (lock/arm)
    4. +12v keyless/alarm signal pulse (unlock/disarm)
    4. Ground

    One wire output:
    1. +12VDC 10A signal to your power supply or startup/shutdown controller
    2. +12VDC 1A signal to your amplifier.
    3. Optional 5VDC 6A output to power devices like USB2.0 hub

    Devise replaces your ignition wire output to your power supply or startup/shutdown controller.

    Let me know the other ideas of functionality you may want for this device.

    Estimated price is $50 USD and with optional 5VDC 6A power supply $60 USD


    I tested this device in my car for nearly three month and itís been very helpful to me.

    Let me know if anybody interested to order.

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