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Thread: Renault "Tuner List" Head Unit/CD changer hacking - Controls

  1. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vicne
    (*)Notes about the JavaComm API :
    - For an unknown reason, Sun currenlty doesn't distribute Windows binaries for version 3, so the ones included are version 2, of which the complete package can be found here.
    - On Linux, I read RXTX can be used although I didn't try. The driver to be used is loaded at run-time according to the settings in the properties file. Just put the jar in the classpath and adapt the class name, and it should work. If not, well, you've got the source :-)

    Well, python is much simpler
    (don't want to start a language holy war tough)

  2. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vicne
    Mox already has done a good job on that part
    yes, we know the components, but we don't know how they are connected

    and if I'm not mistaken his connects2 is buried somewhere in his dash and not easy to access. Note however that the physical description is rather surprising to say the least : the chip it uses seems suited for synchronous data communications (clock in) !
    but it could have been connected in some "creative" way (though I find the rohm datasheet lacking), e.g. just to do the level translation.

  3. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ale
    Try with a divider 22k/10k on the base of NPN, perhaps level 0 of receiver is greater than 0,6V
    So you mean adding a 10K resistor between base and GND ? I admit I don't understand what it would change...
    Or try too "renforcing" the pullup use a 470ohm
    Well, I thought my measurement of the impedance meant there already was an internal pull up but...
    What if the input rx need exact 12V for level 1? think rx input with a pnp transistor with emitter to 12V and the base is the rx input with a pulldown to gnd it give exact 12-0,7=11,3V...
    Oh, I see what you mean : the input would be like below ?

    I admit the PSU I'm using for the tests is an old defective one and its 12V is more like 11.5, in this case the pull up may not be sufficient to block the input transistor of the HU. Is that what you mean ? In this case, what can I do ? Apart using another power supply of course ?
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  4. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vicne
    Oh, I see what you mean : the input would be like this ?
    Pin 14 is the input, isn't it?, so the transistor should be connected the other way round (the collector to pin 14, the emitter to ground and the base at the output of the max232)

  5. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by pippolippi
    Pin 14 is the input, isn't it?, so the transistor should be connected the other way round (the collector to pin 14, the emitter to ground and the base at the output of the max232)
    see post 205

  6. #236
    Ale
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vicne
    So you mean adding a 10K resistor between base and GND ?
    yes but i read datasheet now ,says receiver level 0 max 0,4V

    Oh, I see what you mean : the input would be like this ?
    yes!
    I admit the PSU I'm using for the tests is an old defective one and its 12V is more like 11.5, in this case the pull up may not be sufficient to block the input transistor of the HU
    try using the HU +12v pin 16 for the pullup...

  7. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by pippolippi
    Pin 14 is the input, isn't it?, so the transistor should be connected the other way round (the collector to pin 14, the emitter to ground and the base at the output of the max232)
    No, no, I wired it like in post 205.

    The above schema is my understanding of Ale's explanation (TBC) of what's *inside the head unit*. In other words, what do we have to send if the HU's input is like that ?

  8. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ale
    try using the HU +12v pin 16 for the pullup...
    Yep. I'm gonna fetch some more cable. Should take about 10 minutes rewiring...
    Hang on (if you like) :-)

  9. #239
    Ale
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    or try the original open collector without the pullup at all, the input pnp should switch off if left open..

  10. #240
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    We won't open champagne today :-(

    Nothing.

    - Tried with a pull up to the Head Unit's 12V (12.25V actually) : nothing
    - Tried without any pull up (open collector) : nothing
    - Tried with a divider on the base (although I still don't really "feel" what it should do) : nothing

    Either it's a level problem or the HU has more complex "countermeasure" protection to prevent silly people (?) from faking a CDC...

    Mox, do you have a means of describing further the Connects2 driver stage or would it force you to do that again (hope you don't mind that I made it public :-)) ?

    Or does any one of you feel like opening his HU to see what's inside ?

    I'm open to suggestions, but I'm afraid I won't be able to test anything before tomorrow night.

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