Thread: Renault "Tuner List" Head Unit/CD changer hacking - Controls

Originally Posted by pippolippi

But the shipping cost outside germany is 15€!!! Besides, they don't take credit cards, only bank transfers or paypal.
And I had to register (with fake data, they deserve it) just to find out. I'm tired of shopping sites where you need to register and simulate a complete order process just to find the basic information,

I'm very sorry that I stept on your 'short fuse'.
I was only trying to help. I looked at the product page and found it a lot more interesting then the one that Vicne suggested because of the fact that there are no wires attached to the pins, thats all. I never placed an order there so I didn't knew about the shipping cost and payment methods. Besides, because you don't want to work with these conditions and live outside Germany, other people might so I suggest that next time you could try to react a little bit more subtle. Thank you.

Originally Posted by Vicne

I really like your design. Using the remaining signal pins is a smart way to create the needed reference positive and negative voltages.
This circuit not only gives electric isolation but also allows you to get rid of the power supply altogether. Simpler is better.

But... I still have to try if it works connected to the HU (didn't have time yet for that), so if I were you I'd wait a couple days. I posted the schematics just to see if someone has any positive/negative comments about it

Edit : my local dealer has the CNY74-4 which looks compact and well suited so I'd probably go for it. Any comment ?

Yes, that's should be good, in fact it was my initial choice. I used the til111 just because I had it available.

Originally Posted by Vicne

Don't take it personally, Putput, I think he was just upset against the website, not against you. :-)

Exactly, I apologise if it sounded as a rant against putput, it was not my intention.

Originally Posted by Vicne

I really like your design. Using the remaining signal pins is a smart way to create the needed reference positive and negative voltages.
This circuit not only gives electric isolation but also allows you to get rid of the power supply altogether. Simpler is better.

Ale, are you still around ? What do you think of all this ?

I'am not sure the emitter follower output will out a +12V correctly becouse of uncertain lower voltage of fotovoltaic effect at the base.
Edit: but if you can measure the out level at PC-RX we can be sure it work with any pC.
There is a good circuit using optocouplers if you look at max250-251 datasheet. (you can omit the power converter and use the RTS-DTR for V+ and V-).

About the PIC emulator:
today i ordered 3 sample of PIC16F688 (14PDIP and usart inside!)
i have downloaded the free MPLAB IDE and CC5X C compiler for PIC!
The MPLAB has also a simulator (that include usart simulation) that i will use for test the program. (the usart rx take data from a file and out tx data to a window!! very good!!!)
About mini-ISO see tecnosoundsanremo or try a blaupunkt service,they will sell the mini-ISO cable (ref 7 607 621 154) for about 21€;
Ok we all have a lot of work...
bye
Ale

Originally Posted by pippolippi

But... I still have to try if it works connected to the HU

Preliminary result: it doesn't work
When it worked in loopback mode (testing outside the car), the pull-up I used to "simulate" the car was 2 3k3 resistors in parallel (1650ohm), anything less and it doesn't work.
I tried to add a transistor on the output and, again in loopback mode, it works with a 3k3 pull-up, it doesn't with a 10k (again, no time to test in the car)
I don't have too much time now, but think the values of the resistors are not optimal, and the time I knew how to calculate circuits instead of trial and error is long gone
No speed problems though, I tried at 38400bps.