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Thread: Project NiteVision - NiteMax + HUD + carputer

  1. #671
    Variable Bitrate quantum's Avatar
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    Hey GF,

    TY for the quick reply! I kinda figured I'd need to step up the voltage if in fact it needs 14V to run, that "REFERENCE" part threw me a little...

    Probably going to get a 2000 Deville wiring diagram soon. The place I got my last one (for my 98 Deville) is no longer around. Shame too, I got a PDF on a CDROM for $10.00, and it had every system of the 98 right in the pages of the PDF.

    Maybe I will PM Mark and tap his engineering brain...

    This is FUN!

  2. #672
    FLAC
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    hehe, np. I'm not entirely sure where you'd get one, but mark will help.

    hey, equesiton for YOU- i need some help with a lens assembly. Short of hacking into a broken projetor can you help me figure out which lenses i need to widen and shrink a projected image while keeping it in focus?

    lol...thanks.
    Carputer Progress: Here we go again...

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  3. #673
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    Woah!

    Hold up a minute fellows. If you recall, you can't recharge a 12 volt battery with only 12 volts, you need 14. That is what the altenator puts out and then goes through the regulator to the rest of the system. Put a volt meter accross your battery and you will see more that 12 volts while it is running.
    I suggest you invest in Grobbs basic electronics. This a great text book that now even comes with a CDROM that has software to design your own circuits.

  4. #674
    Variable Bitrate quantum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerospaced View Post
    Hold up a minute fellows. If you recall, you can't recharge a 12 volt battery with only 12 volts, you need 14. That is what the altenator puts out and then goes through the regulator to the rest of the system. Put a volt meter accross your battery and you will see more that 12 volts while it is running.
    I suggest you invest in Grobbs basic electronics. This a great text book that now even comes with a CDROM that has software to design your own circuits.
    TY, Aerospaced...

    I know the altenator puts out more than 12v, usually settles in around 13.8v when the car is on and running for a while. I'll probably buy that book for other stuff though, very cool.

    My question really was what does "reference" mean on the pinout, "14 Volt Reference" It also has a plug for + IGN / -GRND, which I figure is what powers the camera up when the car is on.

    EDIT: The 14V reference is the power plug from the headlight switch to the camera, making sure it only comes on when the lights are on. According to the sheets I've read, it will be OK to run 12v to it, and it should work fine.

    The other 2 wires (+/-) are for the window hearer on the camera. Now, where are my wire cutters....

  5. #675
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerospaced View Post
    Hold up a minute fellows. If you recall, you can't recharge a 12 volt battery with only 12 volts, you need 14. That is what the altenator puts out and then goes through the regulator to the rest of the system. Put a volt meter accross your battery and you will see more that 12 volts while it is running.
    I suggest you invest in Grobbs basic electronics. This a great text book that now even comes with a CDROM that has software to design your own circuits.
    True but you can bump up voltage. How a 9v battery can power out 50kv in a stun gun.

    Quote Originally Posted by quantum View Post
    TY, Aerospaced...

    I know the altenator puts out more than 12v, usually settles in around 13.8v when the car is on and running for a while. I'll probably buy that book for other stuff though, very cool.

    My question really was what does "reference" mean on the pinout, "14 Volt Reference" It also has a plug for + IGN / -GRND, which I figure is what powers the camera up when the car is on.

    EDIT: The 14V reference is the power plug from the headlight switch to the camera, making sure it only comes on when the lights are on. According to the sheets I've read, it will be OK to run 12v to it, and it should work fine.

    The other 2 wires (+/-) are for the window hearer on the camera. Now, where are my wire cutters....
    Keep in mind, I'm no electrician, just know enough to be dangerous

    A reference is just what it sounds like. It's a fixed voltage used to reference other voltages. Think of it as a legend on a scale, giving a sense of magnitude.

    Say you had an ADC (Analog digital converter) that can measure a voltage from 0v to Nv in 256 increments. 0v = 0 and Nv = 255, well, what does 255 mean?

    It needs some sort of "scale" if you want to know what the highest voltage you expect is. The reference provides this (and other uses). VREF doesn't neccassarily equal input voltage, it can be any arbitrary voltage.

    The other thing with electronics, they are usually a bit sloppier than you imagine, usually there's a tolerance that's acceptable in the circuit, often 10% or more (for some applications though, it may have a minuscule tolerance). Something might say 12v, but actually be OK with 10v to 15v. (might not too ).

    13.8v is very close, only a 1.5% difference. I'm sure that's what they mean. Though a quick question, what kind of headlights to those caddies have? I'll bet the reason there is also a power wire and the light switch is that IIRC, thermal imagers have some startup time. So keeping the camera powered all the time would avoid that.

  6. #676
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    Hey guys, sooo many pages to read through... Did anyone figure out what material to use to place on the windshield to reflect the image properly?

  7. #677
    Variable Bitrate quantum's Avatar
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    YESSSSS!

    Guess what fellas, IT WORKS! This is way to cool!

    Basically, 12v power and ground, composite low and high. 4 wires and I was able feed the image into my monitor. All those other wires are just GM fluff. I used a PC power supply to test.

    I was doing some fun-with-thermal-camera stuff tonight like putting my hand on the wall and watching the prints fade, checking out the heater pipes in the house, etc.

    Plus, normally it is set to display white=hot, black=cold. If you reverse the signal wires, it goes the opposite way. Might be handy for something, not sure what though.

    It also frees up the HUD unit to do that graphic LCD idea, which will be a summer project for sure!

    This is gonna be FUN! Now, time to go hunt down the cat...

  8. #678
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    first post here

    I found this site from hackaday. Anyway, I work at a wholesale auto glass warehouse (manager) and I have had some experiences with HUD displays in vehicles. More importantly, the glass and what is in it. I didn't read the entire thread here, but I am assuming you folks want to reflect the projection on the windshield properly without it getting washed out or projecting light through the windshield so that other drivers see it.

    I know that there is an 8x8 laminate sandwiched in the windshield that has different reflective properties than the rest of the laminate in the windshield for cars with HUD’s. It is transparent at one angle but reflective at another. I will call our manufacturer in china and see if they can give me a product name for this laminate.

    You could probably mount the laminate on the interior side with a good commercial adhesive and get quality results suitable for daily driving.

    That is if you folks are still working out this problem or the project isn’t dead.

    Let me know

    And hello to all, Nice forums.

  9. #679
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    Think he ment....

    Quote Originally Posted by Genesisfactor View Post
    Hey sharkbite. That would work okay for the day time, but have you ever seen an lcd with a busted backlight? there's not much visible. At night, it would be shot.

    When you get that baja, give me a shout out
    I think he ment that you take out the backlight, leaving only the lcd plate, and put this betwen a bulb and the windshield.
    Same principle as this: [media]http://www.terracode.com/DIY_Projector_2004_files/image002.jpg[/media]
    At least that is how i think we can sovle the brightness issue.
    As for the size, i think we have to look to the camera-lence tech, or simular.

  10. #680
    Constant Bitrate Sharkbite86's Avatar
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    Yes that is actually exactly what I was talking about. Haha good pic. Looks like that idea is obsolete now though?

    BTW Genesisfactor the Baja fell through, so all I got is my Yota for now
    MacCar progress:
    Planning:-----> [||||||||||||||||||||] 70%
    Parts:---------> [||||||||||||||||||||] 0%
    Construction:-> [||||||||||||||||||||] 0%

    Car broken into... progress is basically zip...

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