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Thread: Subwoofer Ohm wiring

  1. #11
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    popular was what happened in high school

    it depends on what you want to use them for--- 1/2 ohm setups are primarily for spl competitions, where only the sheer output matters, not the quality of the sound

    some use 2 ohm setups in their cars because it is a adequate balance between spl and quality.

    4 ohm have become the standard in cars, but that doesn't mean they are the best-- it offers the most output and cone control...

    basically, the higher the resistance in the speaker-- the cooler the amp will run(because it will have something pushing back), and the more control it will have over the speaker movement.

  2. #12
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    Alright, Thanks soundman. I just didnt think 2ohm subs were in demand as much, anyway the subs i was looking into getting were 2 12'' Pioneer champion series pro subs (1000rms, 3500peak) they retail for 449.99 CAD but i found a pair for 400 new. The amp im looking at is a MTX thunder 1000XD. I just purchased a 4ga amp kit and will soon get a 1.5 farrad cap. I want it to be stupid loud, hopefully this setup will accomplish that right now im running 2 12inch JL audio subs and a small MTX jackhammer amp.

  3. #13
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    don't get a cap. it is a waste of money that can be better spent in other area of the sound system

    there is a thread in the car audio section titled 'should i get a capacitor'--this is what i posted there-- if you research it, this is the basic concept of what capacitors do in any electrical system:

    imagine that the amp and subs are a big bathtub, the alternator is a water pump, and the capacitor is a water tower.

    when you want to fill the bathtub(make the amp/subs start playing), the starting 'jolt'(the first 'bump') of filling the bathtub is going to require more pressure than what the small pump, and water lines can provide, so the water tower releases some water to help keep the pressure up. so now the water pump now not only has to fill the tub, but also add water to the water tower to fill up what you used... if you start playing with the faucet knobs, and turning them on and off(what a bass beat is doing to the amp) it is going to keep drawing more water from the water tower, because the pump can't keep up with the high draw that happens when the knob is first turned on, and the pump will then need to send more water to the tower to fill it back up, stressing the pump more...

    now, if you had a super large pump, and huge water lines going to the tub, the pump would always be able to keep up with you turning the knobs on and off, and you would not need the water tower, which will stress the pump a whole lot less, and make filling the tub a whole lot quicker...(by now, it should be come a little clearer with how a cap might help occaisionally, but will hurt performance overall, compared to a properly setup system)

    like thewizard said, if you are having issues you should change the component(s), not add more stuff that will also require power...

  4. #14
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    Alright, But my buddy has a cap and i dont, when i have my deck turned up almost all the way and the bass is hitting hard my headlights dim out with every bass note and my deck dims, some songs my deck even shuts down for a second and starts back up due to the lack of voltage, his car never does that and hes running more RMS then i am, Ive had my altenator check and its fine and my battery is only 4months old. The cap is only 50 bucks anyway.

  5. #15
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    a capacitor is a bandaid-- if you put the money into the big three upgrade, it should completly fix the issue.

    also, if you are running over 1000watts of audio power, you should really look at multiple batteries, and upgraded alternators-- the factory stuff was neve meant to handle that type of load.

  6. #16
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    Yeah i was looking into the big 3 upgrade. Im not sure if my dad will let me change the alternator in my truck since its technically his truck, it was my xmas present. in my old car i killed the alternator after about 3 months lol it was squealing like a pig.

  7. #17
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    well, if it isn't really your truck, then you shouldn't be playing with that much power anyways

    do what i did-- get a small amp and 10" sub to hold you over (or use what ever you got that will fit), and save up for your own car, that you can tear into without parental problems...

  8. #18
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    Yeah, i was thinking of just keeping my 2 12'' jl audio subs. They hit pretty hard with the amp bridged anyway. but its always nicer to have a bigger setup, so when i want to even louder, i know i can.

  9. #19
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    Alright im really close to buying this setup (2 12" 2ohm dvc subs+mono amp) just had a couple more. Would it be better to get the dvc 4ohm subs and run them at 800RMS @ 4 ohm, or get the dvc 2ohm subs and run them at 1000RMS @ 2ohm? which would produce more louder deep bass. Also, just double checking, with a mono amp that pushes 1000RMS @ 2 ohm and i run 2 subs at a 2ohm load it would give each sub 1000RMS right? it wont cut the RMS in half and only give each sub 500RMS would it?

  10. #20
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    I am horrible with power calculations, but I believe that you are right in thinking that the speakers are only getting 500 rms each from the amp.

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