Thread: audio over USB v. optical

Originally Posted by Ruffy

Ok read through the thread(been avoiding it). There's alot to tackle.

Why bother with so many outputs? Sure you get the computer to control all the frequencies but in the end 2 pairs are whats really needed for 90% of the installs here. Three pairs for for another 8%.

Those wanting more can use an external crossover. Instead of building the grand daddy 8 output + @ 8v I would say make a smaller goal of 2 pairs @ 4-6v. Once that's working well and all the kinks are gone then move up to more complicated solution.

This thread IS mainly to help out the "elite" that want to squeeze out that last bit of SQ....

Using an external x-over and EQ and such only makes it harder to reach the goal we are looking for.

The other 90% of the people that come here but don't want to achieve the goals some of us are after, don't bother to look in this thread... Why should that little group of "elitists" be left in the cold on this forum?

Those wanting more can use an external crossover. Instead of building the grand daddy 8 output + @ 8v I would say make a smaller goal of 2 pairs @ 4-6v. Once that's working well and all the kinks are gone then move up to more complicated solution.

There are options for that already. Grab yourself an Auzentech X-Meridian or a high quality DAC or do the Silverstone DAC mod. Then you are taken care of. We are strictly talking a piece of hardware that interfaces with the software processing. PRO -audio gear is close but it doesn't get us high voltage outputs because analog levels in pro audio gear is not meant to be that high.

Originally Posted by JasonWW

It would all be inside the seat. No one would see it with the seat up or down unless you pop it up. It's pretty easy to adjust as well because the controls are facing forward. You just turn around in your front seat a little.

Thing is, if we're going to go to the point of hacking apart the back seat (which is a 60/40 split), then we're going to just pull the entire back seat.

Since the seat is a 60/40 split, we would have to put it in the passanger side, and even then, I'm not sure it's 19" wide back there.

Just turning around in the seat and folding the seat down isn't an option either. You can't reach back there and do that, would have to get out.

However, doesn't matter anyways right now since we're not going with it for processing.

We have plans for completely pulling the back seat, but that's a few years off.

Originally Posted by Ruffy

Ok read through the thread(been avoiding it). There's alot to tackle.

Why bother with so many outputs? Sure you get the computer to control all the frequencies but in the end 2 pairs are whats really needed for 90% of the installs here. Three pairs for for another 8%.

Because this solution is not designed for 90% of the users on this forum.. It's intended to be a high end solution for those who are interested in high end audio.

Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6

Because this solution is not designed for 90% of the users on this forum.. It's intended to be a high end solution for those who are interested in high end audio.

Exactly what I was trying to say, but much better explained

Originally Posted by Road_Dog

I have a Yamaha RP-U200 which I like:
http://www.yamahamultimedia.com/yec/...vit/rpu200.asp
Well almost, little skimpy on the Watts.

Umm...I don't think this was ever designed to push car audio sepakers. Computer speakers don't take much power at all to push them.

I would love to find an automotive equivalent version that could switch video as well as audio. Doesn't need the FM tuner. Having an USB controlled, Sound over USB (5.1) amp would fill my needs well. I have searched for weeks looking for a good solution to no avail.

I think you might be a little confused here then. This is nothing like what we're trying to design. No video switching, no FM audio, no amplifier.

I think I need to redo the first post in this thread so people can better understand what's going on here.

Let me clarify. I like the concept of what the Yamaha receiver does. But you are correct that it is designed for home use. It has built in DACs for USB audio, it also switches audio via USB, it has S/PDIF, audio is controlled via USB. I can see not wanting the amplifier if you are in competition. I am sure there are plenty of better amps out there.

I just don't want a slew of DACs, Switches, and other stuff tucked in various places in my car. But nobody makes anything close, hence my piecemeal route until someone or myself combines it into one neat package.

I am interested in the DAC postings mentioned in this thread for that reason.

Sorry for not being clearer.

The built in power on that Yamaha isn't enough for car audio speakers, not just talking from a competition stand point, but from any stand-point.
20 watts per channel is little more than what a head unit offers. That's not even worthy of a cheap flea market amplifier.

I'm getting the impression that you're expecting this thread to yield a result for your specific application, even from your last post.

This solution will not have built in power. It's not designed nor was it ever intended to be a solution for someone looking for an all in one solution.

It's intent is to be a solution for those who are interested in high end audio, and are not willing to comprimise simply because of what's currently avaliable. I get the feeling that you're looking for something that we're not working to develop right now. Maybe this is because of a bit of confusion about what we're going after?

No, I don't think this thread will solve all my problems. Also, I am not saying that the Yamaha unit should be modified to go into a car. I just like the features on it and have been looking (in vain) for a unit offerering half the features but was built for the car. This is the only reason I mentioned it. Most home amps I see that have USB, have it to pass audio from PC to Receiver via USB, not control the volume.

I also know the amp was designed for being around a computer in the house not for a car. Not even good for the living room. I mentioned I didn't like the amp wattage output anyway. I know its 20 Watts is crap for cars (as well as being 8 ohms instead of normal 2 or 4 ohms). I hear what you are stating.

The outcome of peoples research and sharing here will shape my decision. I might have to have a larger case or more compact contruction to accomadate the many sepaerate appliances that are connected to solve my problem. I just said (obviously not clearly) it would be nice if I could find a single unit to do audio/video switching, PC audio via USB, volume control via USB. I am also realistic in that no such animal exists unless I put one together using various diagrams and scematics in the public realm.

Then again, I may be all thumbs and cannot put together anything working and resort to buying assembled and tested units. It has happened before. Surface mounted parts get the better of me and my nearsightedness.


Road_Dog