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Thread: audio over USB v. optical

  1. #41
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    guys - I think that all of the interest in this is great! I just want everyone to remember, that talking and walking are two different things.

    We now have a list of desired features:
    • USB connection to the PC
    • 5 pair of RCA outputs
      • at least 4V outputs, prefered to have 8V
      • socketed RCA sockets - so that the end user can opt to upgrade the sockets if desired
    • User replaceable OpAmps
      • User replaceable caps would be nice, but not necessary
    • 12v DC power supply
    • Encased in an external enclosure - much like a DAC or an external sound card
    • Size is of concern, we need it to be small enough that it's easily able to be hidden. Nothing like the size of the DBX drive rack and the like. Something along the same size as the Alpine 701 brain.


    with this we can now start to look at building a prototype. I've contacted Douglas and asked him to take a look at this thread and if he wanted to register to give us some input. We'll see. Else I've got a few other contacts I can go after.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  2. #42
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    1 output for Tweeters
    1 output for mid-range
    1 output for mid-bass
    1 output for rears (for those who use them)
    1 output for sub-bass
    Ok well that works. When I was refering to 8 channels I was counting Left and Right channels separately. I am willing to blow the dust of my EE books and get my hands dirty with some design for this. Beware though, I am really rusty. I think I could help with some of the analog stuff.

    Or were you contracting/contacting some outside sources?

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by durwood View Post
    Ok well that works. When I was refering to 8 channels I was counting Left and Right channels separately. I am willing to blow the dust of my EE books and get my hands dirty with some design for this. Beware though, I am really rusty. I think I could help with some of the analog stuff.

    Or were you contracting/contacting some outside sources?
    either or.

    If some users want to tackle this...go for it!
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  4. #44
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    hahaha I can definitely help or assist on the output section, but the rest is above what I know. I wish I knew more about PS but that wasn't my strong area.

    The software part will probably be one of the most difficult things about this.

  5. #45
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    see, now I thought the software end was cool, I mean with console & vst pluggins what else do we need software wise? I thought it'd be really hard to find x overs, 31 or more band eq's & phase shift software, but I thought that was covered at this point? also, I thought routing was doable easily enough too... what's the difficult part of the software?

  6. #46
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    I'm not sure that Durwood was speaking of that side of the software, but rather the drivers or the interface between this piece and the computer.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  7. #47
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Yep I should have clarified.

  8. #48
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    I think the drivers are going to make or break this project.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  9. #49
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    see, that's one of the reasons I though it'd be better to start with an existing piece to modify rather than trying to reinvent this from scratch...


    one thing I'm finding with PC audio is this:

    even when we go all the way up to "professional" car audio, were still within the range of consumer based products... I mean there really aren't many $10,000 pieces of car audio equipment, besides some manufacturers making one off show off pieces, but in general, even pro car audio stuff is realistic for the average enthusiast, BUT

    when it comes to PC audio, professional stuff takes on a whole new level, I mean most pro audio for the PC is designed with recording studio's in mind, & a $10,000 component is not unheard of in this realm, actually there is equipment that can be several times this... point being, now, were stepping into the realm of stupid money.... I remember looking into pro PC audio a good while back & seeing that the costs involved there can make the alpine f1 stuff look cheap in comparison....

    also, as I said before, but just to repeat it a bit clearer again, virtually NO pro PC audio equipment or setups have anywhere near the obstacles or requirements that we have in a car.... no pro studio equipment really goes the way we go, with several drivers each on there own channel, but comprising just one "speaker" in the end, as far as full range sound...

    in other words, even in a studio environment, a left channel is usually just a left channel, one full range signal for that channel, where we need either 2 or 3 separate channels, each providing a piece of this full range "left", & of course in the division of this signal, we also need to put it back together to behave as one, meaning proper x overs, & then phase shifting to realign & correct what the x over screwed up to begin with... add to this that sometimes time alignment is necessary within this one "left" output, to put the separated pieces back in proper alignment... I mean this just isn't done in a studio or professional environment...

    I'm pretty gung ho about this & I want to really get this done.... I just need to know that this isn't an excercise in futility, which I really don't think it is at this point, but by the same token, I don't mind spending what it will take within reason, & if in the end, I would get the same or better results by just going with an f1 status processor, I would go that route.... I guess most here will want to keep this much cheaper than the f1 processor is, at a bit over $2,000 but I would spend even more than that if that's what it took to do it right & do it better than the f1 could provide....

    ****, I blame you mostly red, before all this hit the main stream here I was perfectly content just getting an alpine processor, I did look into pro audio on the PC before & just dismissed it as not practical, but all this research & stirring has gotten me to look at this again through different eyes... now you got me wanting even more

  10. #50
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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