Ok so here is my newbie attempt at a diagram outlining what I think will be the wiring for my carpc's Power .. I havent found to many diagrams for the p1900 wired to a laptop especially through an auto adapter. please do let me know if its incorrect.
I am still going to Use the P1900 as a startup / shutdown controler for the pc but since I need to run the dell through the lind auto adapter I am running from the battery to the p1900 to the lind auto adapter then to the laptop. Im not certain about the acpi wire .. is on a laptop does it go to the power button? Is it ok to have an inline momentary switch mounted in my dash to be able to reset the pc in the event of a system crash / freeze ... Also is the main on / off switch ok on the ignition lead ?
Looks about right; there's a few things I would change.
Mainly if you're gonna put a main kill switch, I'd put it on the power line from the battery, so that if it's off the computer won't turn on; it'd be like a valet switch. Having it on the IGN doesn't seem like it'd work properly in my mind. It would technically work, but just seems wrong for some reason.
The ACPI wires (green/black) will need to connect to your power switch of the laptop, and having that monetary switch placed in the dash(or somewhere you can access) would be a good idea. Though the ACPI has it's own black wire, so don't tap that into the main ground.
sargeants is right. other than that, it looks good.
Sorry to bring up an old thread but my question pertains to doing exactly the above senario. No need for a new thread.
My issue is my HP Auto adapter specs an input voltage of 11-15v. I have the Carnetix 1900 that will only go as low as 18V. i was going to power the adapter through the 1900.
Will 18v likely toast the auto adapter or is there usually plenty of wiggle room on the specs of the auto adapter?
If you have the auto adapter, you don't need the Carnetix.
With my auto/air adapter, the input spec was 11-24, so I was okay using the 18. Though, I've since changed my layout and it is MUCH better especially using a carnetix. One issue I found with this is when I had a battery connected to the laptop, it would squeal. Yet if I took the machine and hooked it up on the bench with an adapter it'd be fine
Originally Posted by PhilG
true, unless you're wanting to run another way of getting the auto on, battery saver and other fun timeout features. keeping the auto adapter, you should just connect direct to the fuse box/cig socket.
Originally Posted by DarquePervert
See my log, after having some great insight from Gecko483 with his Dell install, I was able to figure out the way "around" the smart pin.
Essentially, get rid of that auto adapter, pickup a spare normal adapter, and connect it to the carnetix and laptop like I've done and away you go. I don't have any battery squeal after running this way.
So please confirm that I understand correctly:
The HP laptop will see the correct ID with no power on the input side of the auto adapter? I can cut the plug off to reduce clutter or leave the it on if I want to preserve the adapter for future use.
bingo, as long as that adapter gives the smart ID you'll be set
that's how I've had mine running for a good 2-3 months now.
Thanks sargeants, I really appreciate your help.
Now I am working on my Carnetix 1900 and I find a couple of the jumpers very unclear and the problem is if JP2 & JP5 are not matched, damage will occur and it just so happens that neither one of those jumpers have Pin 1 identified.
Can anyone tell me in the attached pic if the black arrows are pointing to Pin 1 or Pin 3.
All of the others have Pin 1 marked and these 2 unmarked are the most critial.
I got it, I verified from the Carnetix forums that the square Pins on the board layout schematic indicate PIN 1 so the arrows are pointed at PIN 1 in both cases above.