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Thread: Laptop Remote/External Power Switch Mod - NEED HELP!

  1. #1
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    Laptop Remote/External Power Switch Mod - NEED HELP!

    Hello guys, I am currently trying to follow WarDriver's Simple and Clean Remote Laptop Power Switch (Simple and Clean Remote Laptop Power Switch). I just took apart the laptop bezel and i've reached somewhat of a brick wall. I have little experience in soldering, so this only makes it tougher. The contact pads where I am supposed to solder are EXTREMELY SMALL and almost covered up by the button itself! The picture below is not great, but hopefully you can see what i'm talking about.



    Is it those little points on the corner that i would solder to, after testing the continuity? This is going to be a major pain in the *** lol.

  2. #2
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    And this is a very close-up picture of the button as well

  3. #3
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by azngujuonfire View Post

    Is it those little points on the corner that i would solder to, after testing the continuity? This is going to be a major pain in the *** lol.
    Testing continuity will answer your own question.

    Depending on how the button is set up, you might be able to get away with only using one contact and have the other lead from your external switch go to laptop ground. You'll... have to test continuity.
    Tidder

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    ha, yeah i'll be testing continuity shortly after i get home. The points are so small and almost hidden under the square that houses the button. There is barely any space under the button also.

    Ok so for the soldering portion, would i tin the wires and then heat the contacts and hold the tinned wire to it as it heats? What would happen if the solder also touched the metal square? I'm worried this may happen since there is so little room

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate WarDriver's Avatar
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    Test the contiguity - if that board comes out you might want to pull it out of the laptop and flip it over. Sometimes the pins go through to the bottom.

    -WD-
    -WarDriver-
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    My DC to AC Inverter Mod
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarDriver View Post
    Test the contiguity - if that board comes out you might want to pull it out of the laptop and flip it over. Sometimes the pins go through to the bottom.

    -WD-
    Wooow i never thought of that haha, how simple! I just pried the ***** out of the bezel b/c there were 2 screws that were the most stubborn biatches in the world to remove It was all for nothing, as there is nothing coming out of the back

    Ok so since i cannot use the back of the circuit board, this is going to be tough. is there anyway i can somehow "extend" those contact points further outward so that I can solder the wires to them? It is ok if there is solder on the blue board beneath the button right?

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    Ok WarDriver, using a multi-meter, when i touched the leads to the top right and bottom left contacts, the laptop automatically turned on w/o having to push the button. Does that mean that these are the two contacts that "close" when the button is pressed? Any other combination of multimeter leads and contacts does not result in the laptop turning on.

  8. #8
    Constant Bitrate WarDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by azngujuonfire View Post
    Ok WarDriver, using a multi-meter, when i touched the leads to the top right and bottom left contacts, the laptop automatically turned on w/o having to push the button. Does that mean that these are the two contacts that "close" when the button is pressed? Any other combination of multimeter leads and contacts does not result in the laptop turning on.
    You should be checking for broken contiguity until the button is pressed.
    -WarDriver-
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarDriver View Post
    You should be checking for broken contiguity until the button is pressed.
    When i put the lead on the bottom left contact, it turns on automatically. I tried pressing the button w/ the lead on that bottom left contact, but the multi-meter still reads ~0.000

  10. #10
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're not checking for continuity. Sounds like you're checking for some type of reading. My multimeter doesn't close a switched circuit when checking... I don't think. Now I'm going to have to go try it.
    Tidder

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