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Thread: U-HID - The best input device aggregator to date?

  1. #1
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    U-HID - The best input device aggregator to date?

    Just want to share my "discovery".

    As you may remember, I put together an encoder hack/soft-switch solution some years ago: MMI style rotary encoder install - details

    - I like encoders and soft switches. Not so keen on touchscreens. Have always looked to move away from hacked keyboard and mouse boards.

    The U-HID from ultimarc is an amazing solution, - almost as if it is designed for car PC use. It can handle toggle and latched switches - a big plus for sensing things like ignition key states ( not for power sequencing ). It also can interpret analogue levels.

    www.u-hid.com

    It is small. It's smaller in the flesh than the pictures suggest. I have replaced all of my encoder and keyboard hacks with this single device. Each pin can be programmed for gnd, +5v, keyboard, game controller, encoder - either X, Y, Z or gamepad output.

    Another neat touch is the LED outputs, which can follow the logic state of a switch function (momentary, toggle, flip-flop, seesaw, shift), or controlled by an external API.

    Talking of APIs, - c#, c++, deplhi, VB6, VB.NET.

    Expensive though...

  2. #2
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    Forgot to mention one thing about the encoder mode; if anyone has been frustrated with normal mouse-board hacks when you need to turn the encoder two physical clicks to effect a single operation, this board sorts this out.

  3. #3
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    I was looking at buying one of these boards to transform my power mirror adjust switch to a transport control. I figured that the normal Left-off-Right toggle switch for selecting the mirror could be used as the shift function, allowing the 4 direction joystick, to multiply to 8 functions. I was thinking simple track and volume controls one one, and then perhapse menu navigation/directional controls in the other mode.

    What are your thoughts on this setup with the U-HID?

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Really rate this idea: using car-specific controls in a car (just might catch on).

    My only caveat is that an increasing number of car controls have moulded in interface boards with CAN-bus or other multiplexed outputs.

    I have seen this in my own VW.

    If you know the switch has straightforward switch connections, your idea should work very nicely. Most car mirror controls will give a 4-way joystick control, with a shift feature adding more options.

    You've got me thinking know...

  5. #5
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    Yes, plus they are right where you need them. How often do you really use the mirror adjust. You can just get an extra switch assembly, and install it somewhere else, like the center storage box, or even lower in the door pocket. I plan on ordering the big U-HID sometime soon, glad to see you are using one, and think it is a quality product.

  6. #6
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    I just came across the U-HID product from another site but I thought it would be perfect for the pesky sterring wheel controls problem we all face. The PAC products are great but if you use the IR the delay is almost unbearable. It may take some work but why not re-work the steering wheel controls to use one of these? Perhaps the U-HID nano? Anyone have any experience with this?

  7. #7
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    Yep, these are nice controller-boards.

    I have one (as well as a Leo Bodnar BU036A Controller), and I currently have an industrial joystick connected to 2 axis. Works very well.

    The idea is that I will connect a dual mechanical encoder, set it up as a mouse, and program a few buttons, and this will act as my Centrafuse Frontend controller. I do not want to spoil my Transflective NEC 8.4" LCD with a touchscreen - the optics goes for a pile after - yes, I know we can do optical bonding - to risky, and expensive.

    Plus, I work on touchscreens on a daily basis, and don't want it in my car. Just not good enough. My fingers are way to big to get decent accuracy.

    So, a custom controller it is - and the U-HID will form the basis. Gotta luv the programmability of the pins - yeay.

    I will do a review the moment I get my encoder, and point you to it.

    Have a good one.
    F6 Tornado Project Log ; HP Blackbird Watercooled Server

    Beta Tester for Centrafuse and 3dConnexion (No business affiliation with either)

  8. #8
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    Waiting for review

    2 things id like u to include in review

    1.) Everytime windows starts, do we need to first run a software and minimize it for the attached switches to work?

    2.) Does it still perform well when returning from hibernation ?


    Third is a noob question
    3.) if possible for u , can u tell me if it would work with a standard blackberry trackball ? i could get a replacement trackball fairly easily and cheaply and maybe install it somewhere in the car and use it to move about in my frontend!

  9. #9
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    Heya Mate,
    You don't need the software to be running - it's a config tool only, and it seems it saves this to flash in the device.

    I will test how it goes with hibernation - I'm also awaiting the Carnetix powered-USB hub, should be delivered tomorrow, and if issues with using normal USB and hibernation, I will also test using the hub.

    If your Blackberry trackball uses optical encoders, they should work - you may need to verify voltage requirements et al.

    I can't see a problem.
    F6 Tornado Project Log ; HP Blackbird Watercooled Server

    Beta Tester for Centrafuse and 3dConnexion (No business affiliation with either)

  10. #10
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    thats good news so far

    also pictures of your connected hardware would be great, that could make it work as a tutorial too

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