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Thread: Steering Wheel Controls

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate DjBac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frodobaggins
    Sounds like you have digital controls.
    But when I press a button nothing happens!!
    So there is no way to use them??

  2. #42
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    You sure you're looking at the right wires? If so and it's really digital, you probably need a scope to see what's really going on. Too much trouble IMO. A PAC interface and IRMan would probably be a better choice for something like that though, right?

  3. #43
    Maximum Bitrate ddogg_777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DjBac
    I tried to use my car's steering wheel controls..
    But i have a problem...

    it has 4 wires.. ACC,GROUND,TX+ and TX-.
    I connect +12v to ACC ground to GROUND and then check volts to TX+ and TX-..
    But the volts don't change!!
    Either 2,5 and 12V...
    Am I doing something wrong??
    That sounds okay to me. When god_of_cpu hooked up 5V to his controls he also would get three voltages (1.5V, 3V, and 5V) to correspond to mode, vol up, and vol down. The changing voltage is actually changing the current.
    Yours should work fine!

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSUC5Vette
    Would it be possible to use a double pole switch with one pole through the 500 and the other through the 1K to double the number of buttons you can use?
    Meant to say double throw switch, does any one know if it will work.

  5. #45
    Maximum Bitrate DjBac's Avatar
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    You sure you're looking at the right wires? If so and it's really digital, you probably need a scope to see what's really going on. Too much trouble IMO. A PAC interface and IRMan would probably be a better choice for something like that though, right?
    I have the controls out of the car and testing them with a 12V power supply...
    They have only 4 wires...
    ACC, GROUND and TX+/-
    I've used PAC SWI-X and IRMan but with no result!!

    That sounds okay to me. When god_of_cpu hooked up 5V to his controls he also would get three voltages (1.5V, 3V, and 5V) to correspond to mode, vol up, and vol down. The changing voltage is actually changing the current.
    Yours should work fine!
    Voltage WON'T change!!! That is the problem!!!
    Is there a way that the control don't work??
    I have an aftermarket HU and I don't know!!!

  6. #46
    Maximum Bitrate ddogg_777's Avatar
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    Oh, I thought you were getting 2, 5, and 12V when you pushed buttons. I guess if you have TX+/- then those are digital.

    Quote Originally Posted by DjBac
    I have the controls out of the car and testing them with a 12V power supply...
    They have only 4 wires...
    ACC, GROUND and TX+/-
    I've used PAC SWI-X and IRMan but with no result!!



    Voltage WON'T change!!! That is the problem!!!
    Is there a way that the control don't work??
    I have an aftermarket HU and I don't know!!!

  7. #47
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Does the PAC SWI-X work? Easy way to test: Just look at the IR emitter through a digital camera/video camera. They all pick up IR. To test the IRMan, use any other remote from a TV or stereo. If both work, I have no more ideas.

  8. #48
    Maximum Bitrate DjBac's Avatar
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    I've tested SWI-X and works fine!!
    I use IRMan with another remote, so it is just fine!!!

    If my controls are digital, how can I make them work?

  9. #49
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    So if you use a TV remote you get events in Girder, and the SWI-X flashes the IR emitter when you press buttons on the steering wheel but you get no events in Girder? Maybe incompatible IR signal or something? Anybody??

  10. #50
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    sorry i didnt read this whole thread. i couldnt stop laughing after i looked at god of cpu's site. ...junior roflmao.

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