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Thread: Motorized Door To Cover The Lilliput LCD

  1. #11
    Variable Bitrate 4u2n's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MatthijsNL
    I've got the sceam ready.
    Can someone tell me how to acces the photo upload section of this site?
    I really don't have the time now to search.
    If i don't hear anyting i'll serch the section myself, but than I can post my drawing tomorow...
    Use the in the buttom of the page

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  2. #12
    Variable Bitrate brooksware2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MatthijsNL
    I've got the sceam ready.
    Can someone tell me how to acces the photo upload section of this site?
    I really don't have the time now to search.
    If i don't hear anyting i'll serch the section myself, but than I can post my drawing tomorow...
    Click on Advanced and then click on manage attachments and browse to the file you want to upload
    Check out my hopefully useful site...

    www.hobbybotics.com

    It's still under design but it is functional

  3. #13
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    Ok Thanks.
    Well here it is.
    Can't do it with one relais (like I said) becouse there's a wire that gets current when the door is fuly open or closed.
    So we'll need a relais for that to.
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  4. #14
    Maximum Bitrate owenjh's Avatar
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    What are you going to make the door from? I think something strong that was on tracks that would be hard to break would be nice, then it would be more sturdy and better theft resistant, what do you think? Also a form of locking it down would be nice.
    CarComputer Status: New Car & Broken (Motherboard Fried)
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  5. #15
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    I don't know what Xtreme's gonna use, but I can't use something that goes right up.
    Becouse there are the vent holes.
    So my 'door' is going to be mounted horizontally.
    When it's gonna open, is has to flip when fully opened.
    I think a pantser is to heavy, and when they want youre screen, they gonna have it.
    Pantser or no pantser.

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate Xtreme2k2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MatthijsNL
    I don't know what Xtreme's gonna use, but I can't use something that goes right up.
    Becouse there are the vent holes.
    So my 'door' is going to be mounted horizontally.
    When it's gonna open, is has to flip when fully opened.
    I think a pantser is to heavy, and when they want youre screen, they gonna have it.
    Pantser or no pantser.
    I'm not quite sure what I'm going to use either..

    But this is no way an attempt to secure the screen, just make it less visible and noticable when the car is parked

  7. #17
    Mik
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    Newbie Mik's Avatar
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    Was thinking you could modify the cd drive, and leave the IDE controller in so it would still use the eject CD command.
    So when the pc boots in one of the batch files that load up before windows you could send the eject CD command, the screen opens and you can see the LCD.

    When the pc shuts down, I think windows already sends the close cd command, it does on mine.


    Might work, what do you think?

  8. #18
    Constant Bitrate Ill1's Avatar
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    I know that even with the IDE cabel disconneted, the open/close button still works on my cd. Perhaps have a relay send a pulse to the open/close button at startup and then again at shutdown.

  9. #19
    Constant Bitrate Xtreme2k2's Avatar
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    I could do that, but its the whole board, and I thought it would just be easier to ditch that and use something else

  10. #20
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    Here is a crappy paint job. The up side to this circit is that all the parts you need are in Radio Shack, the down side is that it uses a little bit of drain on your pc if continue to power the 5-7v line when the car is off. (Depending on the relay, but around .02amps if you are useing a 5v relay with 220ohm resistance. You do NOT need a heavy duty relay, the lighter the better, but it must be 5 volts) the pc on/off should be connected to the pc's power jack line, becaue motors will be running off of this, nothing on a serial cable like some one said. For the 5v line, you could use a 5v sorce if you have one, or hook 2 largeish resistors (1k) together, One end on 12v, one end on gnd, and inbetween them you get 6-7 volts.

    EDIT: I added in a relay at the upper left. that one is not spoken about above, and must be 12v. This is off when the pc is off. No need for anything heavy!
    EDIT EDIT: Oh, crud. I realsed I messed up the relay on the upper left. Reverce the 2 contacts, so the NO is realy NC, and the NC is realy NO.

    If you have any questions, feel free to ask, this is not friendly to an electronic noob.
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