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Thread: help with HP Pavilion dm3 entertainment notebook

  1. #1
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    help with HP Pavilion dm3 entertainment notebook

    hows it going mp3car. long time lurker first time poster and i would like to start off by saying you guys take mobile electronics to a TOTALLY different level. its insane looking at all your builds.


    anyway so i wanted to be able to use my hp pavilion dm3 notebook as a carputer. to be honest i dont even really think many people have this laptop but i got it for free and ive used it to run serato with my bedroom turntable setup and it ran fine. havent used it in a while so i wanted to try to turn it into a carpc. basically wat i wanted to do was be able to have the correct power supply power my laptop. i wanted to be able to have a remote switch to turn it on and i also wanted to be able to run the laptop with the lid closed. i am currently fashioning my glove box to be abe house the laptop (i have a 99 acura cl.) with proper ventilation and fans for cooling.

    here are the specs of the comp (cut and pasted from the hp site)

    -1.3GHz VISION Technology from AMD with AMD Athlon II Neo Dual-Core Processor K325
    -4GB DDR3 System Memory (2 DIMM)
    -ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4225 Graphics
    -320GB (7200RPM) hd
    -Integrated 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN
    -802.11b/g/n WLAN
    -5-in-1 integrated Digital Media Reader for Secure Digital cards, MultiMedia cards, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, or xD Picture cards
    4 Universal Serial Bus (USB) 2.0
    1 HDMI
    1 VGA (15-pin)
    1 RJ -45 (LAN)
    1 Headphone-out
    1 Microphone-in
    -65W AC Adapter


    the first thread i referred to was this thread

    http://www.mp3car.com/laptops-netboo...s-a-carpc.html

    i didnt see anything that referred to AMD units and me being, more or less, a noob at this i wasnt really sure how to check to see if this was an "ideal" laptop or if it was even gonna be possible with it.


    then i figured id need something to power the laptop so ive been reading about the carnetix or opus through these threads

    http://www.mp3car.com/the-faq-empori...-the-faqs.html
    -http://www.carnetix.com/regulators/how_to_coose_psu.html

    i wanted to try to go with the carnetix p2140 but wanted to double check with you guys if its the right choice. here are the power specs from the power plug of my unit

    wide range input - 65w
    input: 100-240v/~1.5a(1, 5 a) 50-60hz
    output: 18.5v ---3.5a

    not even sure if that info pertains to what you guys would need from me to determine whether or not my choice in carnetix would be good but please let me know if it isnt and where to find the correct info.


    i wanted to be able to turn on my laptop from a remote switch so i referred to this thread

    http://www.mp3car.com/laptops-netboo...is-switch.html

    my laptop's switch is a momentary slider switch located on the side. i opened up the laptop to find the solder points and i found that it four points just like the op's drawing on that thread. only diff is my switch is located on the side of the laptop. which are the points i solder my remote switch to?



    i wanted to be able to have the laptop lid closed. i found a couple threads that touched upon this. but i couldnt find the switch or cable that tells the unit the lid is closed and to go into hibernate or whatever. wanted to see if you guys can maybe shed some light. i do see two white wires that come from the screen the the motherboard. maybe disconnect those? idk.

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    For a laptop (or any other PC that uses a single input voltage) , AMD vs Intel really doesn't matter.
    For desktop hardware it's a significant consideration, as Intel CPUS typically draw from 12v while AMD CPUs typically draw 5v. Because of this, an ATX-compatible PSU would need to provide sufficient amperage on the appropriate rail to power the CPU, as well as any other hardware (HDDs, USB devices, RAM, Audio, Network, etc.)

    1. The Carnetix outputting 19v will do you well for powering the laptop.
    2. Turning the laptop on/of w/ the Carnetix will be the most difficult portion of the build. This is the one piece of the puzzle that directs many people toward desktop hardware, as it's a lot easier to setup & configure.
    3. Running w/ the lid closed is easy. There's a Windows setting that dictates what event takes place when the lid is closed. Set it to do nothing, so when you close the lid, the PC continues to operate normally.

    As an aside, Kudos for getting the synapses firing and actually doing some research. Too many users here jump in and start asking "How do I do this?" when the question is answered already should they choose to take a look.
    Thanks for being a refreshing change of pace!
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  3. #3
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    I am using the Carnetix 1900 and it has served me well. You said you have already found the pins on your power switch to solder to so that's 80% of the issue for most people. Many are afraid to open the laptop up and go poking around inside.

    If you read the first page of my build, you will find quite a bit more information about powering the HP laptops. They are a bit unique in their power adapter requirements as are the Dells.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the quick response guys. I'm not afraid to open or solder with this unit at all as I was free and I barely use it. Might as well modify so I can do something cool with it right?

    So philg. As for the switch. So since there are for solder points on (2 on one side 2 on the other) the switch can I assume that one side is neg and one side is positive? What would be the easiest way to determine the correct solder points.

    Darque the power thing was exactly the main thing I was worried about. I've seen a couple folks on the boards with laptops that run into this snag. The good thing is, a lot of the laptop threads I've been reading most people have seemed to have the 1900 and have been successful ( ie philg). So I guess based on that the 1900 would be the way to go? Is there a big difference between the 1900 and the 2140?

    Phil I'm taking a look at your build as I write this. What was your major snag with the carnetix

  5. #5
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by manong View Post
    Darque the power thing was exactly the main thing I was worried about. I've seen a couple folks on the boards with laptops that run into this snag. The good thing is, a lot of the laptop threads I've been reading most people have seemed to have the 1900 and have been successful ( ie philg). So I guess based on that the 1900 would be the way to go? Is there a big difference between the 1900 and the 2140?
    P1900 has a max output of 140w. P2140 has a max output of 185w (with a 12v input).
    Also, the P2140 can have a 12v primary output, can use the PSUMon software and has an additional 12v output.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  6. #6
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by manong View Post

    So philg. As for the switch. So since there are for solder points on (2 on one side 2 on the other) the switch can I assume that one side is neg and one side is positive? What would be the easiest way to determine the correct solder points.


    Phil I'm taking a look at your build as I write this. What was your major snag with the carnetix
    For the power switch, you will need to test with a DVM, if you don;t have one, a cheapie is like 10 or 20 bucks. Maybe you can get the schematic online for your unit.

    There was no snag with the 1900, it has worked like a charm. The issue is that HP (like Dell) uses an ID wire running from the power brick to tell it that it has a genuine HP adapter connected. Without that wire, it will throw a warning message and run at reduced power. My solution was to tap the 1900 into the output side of an HP power brick and it has worked perfect for a couple of years now. Details on how I connected it are in my build.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by manong View Post
    ... As for the switch. So since there are for solder points on (2 on one side 2 on the other) the switch can I assume that one side is neg and one side is positive? What would be the easiest way to determine the correct solder points...
    you are likely correct, but you'll need to check with a meter or find a schematic as someone else pointed out.

    you don't want to provide power to those connections, you just want to temporarily "close" the circuit using a relay. the carnetix power supplies can do this for you. on the P2140 you need to provide your own wires from the pins of jumper #6 "ACPI Isolated Relay Output", solder those two wires to the 2 correct connectors on the laptop power switch, polarity doesn't matter in this case. the procedure for the P1900 is the same, but it's jumper #3 and i think it already has wires coming from it as part of the harness.

    there is a slim possibility that the 4 connections are 2 independent circuits that both need to be pulsed on, in which case you'll just need a relay to go with your carnetix to keep the second set of contacts separate.
    Last edited by theksmith; 06-12-2013 at 01:20 PM.

  8. #8
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    okay i just ordered somethings needed for my build. really just the small things like the switch, a dvm, soldering iron, etc etc...i needed a new soldering iron as my was pretty *****ty. i also ordered that flux stuff. in the past ive never used it but apparently its pretty popular to use among the boards haha. side question. i just discovered heatless solder glue...ya or nay?...ive read it doesnt provide as good of a connection and is more or less a "will do for now" option.


    im ordering the carnetix unit tomorrow. phil ive been studying your diagram on one of the pictures in your worklog and have a couple questions. but i want to get the unit first before i fire away. with that said. with the specs of my computer and the specs of the power i gave in the op would the 1900 be good enough to power my unit? darque i believe you (if i read correctly) pointed towards a "yes it would be okay" answer? haha.

    i guess kinda jumped the gun on starting the project. i had just purchased a pioneer avic z110bt (at an INSANELY cheap price) and was planning to use that with the carputer laptop setup. then i ran into the section of the FAQ (or the wiki. i dont remember) that talked about composite screens vs the screens that you all use. my set back is i absolutely love my head unit and want to be able to use the carputer as well but im trying to find a way mount both my double din pioneer and a double din liliput. for cleanliness i suppose. tried to see if someone on the boards has done something like that in the past. my question is. would the two (laptop carputer and pioneer unit) "play nicely". like would i be able to have both the laptop and the head unit both connected to my amps and speakers without running into any major issues? sorry i have to ask although i know some of you are probably thinking "dude ditch the pioneer. once you have the carputer up and running you wont ever need it".


    any suggestions on screens? saw a couple on ebay that were double din that are within a good price range but wanted to see if any of you had a website or a resource that sold touch lcd screens in raw for. just in case i need to do some fabrications (working on a vip table build and maybe i can mount the screen there...idk..)

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