im not saying its necessary ... it definatly isnt... but if the contacts arent clean (really oxidized) the metal has to get hot enough to basically burn it off. Which can take a while and is sometimes hard to handle...the flux will burn the oxidation off and allow the solder to flow much much more easily.
yeah if it is tinned it should take a moment...but if its not...well thats what im saying sorry i cant read LMFAO
Originally Posted by Sidewalksalvage
alright kid, which is it:rofl:
Originally Posted by Sidewalksalvage
JK:D, where ya been since may???
LMFAO....yeah sorry im kinda tired...college life sucks alot out of you...
Ive found that flux jsut helps that much more....neccessary nah...i guess not
and yeah... i had to get everything together for my big move to college....unfortunatly i cant have my car up here....its killing me!
lol, thanks for all your help. I was trying to solder to the silverish parts but
I guess I need to solder to the brown legs. The only problem I have with soldering to the browin legs is that the brown legs are so incredibly small/close to the button that it is going to be really easy to accidentaly solder to the button instead of the leg.
Any more suggestions?
it's scarry the first time, but it works fine....use a tiny wire like a 22 ga, cut a tiny bit from the insulation, 1/16th maybe, as soon as you heat the tip, it'll pull the insulation back anther 1/16th or so as you tin the wire, tin it to the insulation.... it should look almost like a pin when your done,then just cut it shorter, you only need a tiny tip.. if it winds up a blob you used too much...
then you line the pin tip up with the point of the switch.... it looks scary, but the heat will only pull the solder togeather..., that's why you only wanrt the iron tip on the wire pin end, so you can't heat anything else enough for it to stick to anything but the tiny solder point....... the molten solder on the wire tip will heat the solder point enough for them to flow togeather...if it doesn't work or pulls off easily, try again but just a bit longer... eventually you'll get it
this is why you don't want to use flux... flux will distribute the heat, & will increase the chance of flowing solder to the case of the switch
don't expect to be able to lift the laptop with this joint, but it should be solid enough that playing it back & forth slightly should't make it come off, it's then a good idea to secure them somehow.... some use hotglue, but I use tiny wires from the switch & route them tucked till I can find a place to strap them too, tiny wire tie, whatever..., you can then increase the wire size if you want, especially if it's a longer run....
when you touch your two wires togeather & the laptop starts, sit back & grin:)
Yeah..... much better advice than i could ever give!
And yeah that makes sense about the flux.......
Im usually working with bigger things......outahere
Thanks for the great advice! I think I am going to attempt it again tomorow!
Originally Posted by turbocad6
Help with solder points
I read all of the posts in the threads in regards to carputers. I have my complete system up and running in my lexus is300. What I have is a lilliput 7" monitor in the stock gps housing connected to a dell 700m installed in my glove box. Everything is all complete and it looks beautiful. The only problem I am facing now is installing an external switch for the laptop. Im not sure where to solder the wire and how to make it so that I can unplug the laptop from the external switch so that the laptop can be remote. If any body could help me out at all in where to solder the wiring please let me know..
I attached pictures to show the button of the laptop..
Make sure that connection points are clean.I think he is not soldering the right spot,the little brown legs he drew is where to solder and you have to tin the tip of the wire first.my guess is i need to solder to the brown legs.