Thread: EBY701 questions and opinions!!!!!!!!!

to simulate pushing the switch you'll want to solder on the spots indicated in the 2nd pic (on the side pads of the AV button). I did this to my bluetooth GPS receiver and it works like a charm to power it on when the carpc gets power.

ok i tried this over and over and cant seem to get it. Is there a such thing as a relay that is round? I am not sure how to explain it, but say a switch that has like 5 contacts, and when you apply power to the coil it turns stricking each contact till it gets to one side of the wheel. Then when it cuts power, the wheel turns back to the original posistion?

Ok, I decided to take a step back and see what to do. Your schematic is wrong. Im going to try to draw the one I did which works flawlessly. Finally no more having to use the remote. To do it, I used 2 micro relays, and two 220 uf capacitors which equals 440 uf..... ill post it alittle later... have to walk the puppies now.

I did this with specific parts. If you go to RadioShack and get the same exact parts, I know this will work. If you use a diffrent relays, I am not sure how long the capacitor will keep a charge. The part numbers are on the chart. I am not sure if this is similar to what Katit proposed, if it is, mine is very simple to understand, I could not understand his and got mine with trial and error.

If I may ask, why are you using 2 5V relays on a 12v connection?
And wouldn't it be easier to just use a Double Throw 12v relay like this one?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Y4050&CATID=28

Apologies if I sound nubbish, but this just made more sense to me.

Originally Posted by ContaiN

If I may ask, why are you using 2 5V relays on a 12v connection?
And wouldn't it be easier to just use a Double Throw 12v relay like this one?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Y4050&CATID=28

Apologies if I sound nubbish, but this just made more sense to me.

I basically went with what I knew worked. I dont know how that relay works, but I needed 2 coils. When you go from reverse to drive, one relay (micro relay 1) is still powered for a few seconds by the capacitor. This is done to allow the other relay (micro relay 2) to switch the screen back into PC mode. Once that relay looses its charge (micor relay 1) it breaks the button connection 100% so the screen will not act all buggy like when using one relay. If you use only one, when it swtches to AV1 (camera) then back again, it is technically holding in the button, which causes the Lilliput to act cr@ppy (all the buttons above the pc/av button all turn into pc/av buttons also). So by using the second relay it eliminates that issue.

ah kk, have you tested this as of yet? or is all still theorycrafting?

Originally Posted by ContaiN

ah kk, have you tested this as of yet? or is all still theorycrafting?

It has been tested and stamped with the HiJack seal of approval, lol. I think the only time this will not work is if you do not deactivate AV2 source, and or if for some reason your screen is already in AV1 mode (reverse mode) then it will switch to PC mode when backing up. Thats why i have my screen set that when it powers on, it goes str8 to PC view first then I go into reverse and what not. I have heard of other solutions for reverse mods and all have that limitation.

PS: I did the first unit with wires all hanging all over the place. My next step is to buy a circuit board and eliminate most of the wires and make a nice clean little unit.

Originally Posted by ContaiN

If I may ask, why are you using 2 5V relays on a 12v connection?
And wouldn't it be easier to just use a Double Throw 12v relay like this one?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Y4050&CATID=28

Apologies if I sound nubbish, but this just made more sense to me.

Hey, I just noticed that!!!!!!!!!!! Your right, I am using 5V on a 12V connection..... I dont think they make a 12V micro relay, or at least not this small. Do you think using a 5V relay on a 12V will really matter?