Bump.. Nada?
First the wiring: the monitor's + and - are hardwired to the cig lighter.
The problem: when I start the car and open the mapbox (monitor is hidden in there, w/ hinges), the screen flickers for a very long time. It flashes rapidly from the blue "NO INPUT SIGNAL" to windows, and it usually won't stop until I start driving. Sometimes when I make a turn, the image dies out again, and it flickers from NIS to windows. There have been a few times that the monitor goes black, and the power button flickers from blue to red rapidly as well.
I doubt that it's the VGA cable since it's screwed in tight, and I doubt it's the connector on the screen, since the monitor stays on (signal and power cables join into one connector that plugs in behind the screen). It can't be my onboard graphics dying on me since there would be no image whatsoever. I'm thinking it's something within the lili, but I'm not sure if I can fix it, or if I have to replace the monitor. Could this be from heat damage? The monitor resides in a small compartment that's on top of my dash, but when I'm at work, I always put the windshield sunblocker up.
A part of me is hoping it's the monitor, since I want to upgrade to a transflective screen (w/ a touch controller that WORKS), but I don't want to shell out the huge amount of cash if I can fix what I have for $40. Not to mention, the EBY-701 fits perfectly..
Does anyone have any idea what's wrong with my screen?
PS - I'm sorry if my post makes no sense, or is not logical, it's 2:25AM..
2003 Mazda 6i Sedan - White
CarPC in the making!
Bump.. Nada?
2003 Mazda 6i Sedan - White
CarPC in the making!
This maybe a stupid question, but did you fuse the connection. If so did you use the lilli connector or cut the wires after the connector? If you didn't use the connector you need to. I wired mine into my PSU so that when the comp starts so does the monitor as well as it CLEAN 12v power.![]()
No fuse, actually. I did a temporary connection, so the Lili + line is connected to the IGN line going to the PSU. I also cut the power cable after the in-line "Power Filter."
However, I don't understand how a power problem would cause the screen to lose the signal?
2003 Mazda 6i Sedan - White
CarPC in the making!
Maybe the draw of your PSU is taking current from the lilli. Have you tried a different path or direct connect (w/ fuse of course). My setup is different- I use my PSU as a standard PSU (I manually press the PWR button). Other than a rewire (different line for lilli) or run the lilli off your psu (like I did 250 watt atx4) with a spare molex 12v to mon and the 5v line goes to a USB hub. I am clueless to whats going on. If you find a solution post it plz.![]()
HMMMMMM, that is odd. My setup has three EBY701s connected to the PSU. I simply cut the cig adapter part off, then connected it to a fused distrobution block, which the goes to the PSU 12 V rail. I left the power filter on. What type of PSU is it? What are the stats of your whole system, it could be your straining the PSU, but usually the PSU will shut off and give you a warning light, or at least mine does. Also the PSU may have voltage settings, I have a OPUS 320 and my PC would not turn on in the car but worked perfectly in the house. Turns out I have the jumper set to 12 volts. I then moved it to 11.5 volts and the PC has worked perfectly ever since.
HiJackX1 UAMCB w/ The Tobiathin Core Android/Win 7 hybrid system!
4x 10inch Tablet
1x Win 7 / Rear Entertainment PC
ft/ Web Server Streaming
Mobo: Intel DGLY201
PSU: M2-ATX 160W
one 2.5" HDD, 256MB RAM, BU-353 GPS, and a small PS/2 touchpad (touch controller on my lili went out a long time ago).
2003 Mazda 6i Sedan - White
CarPC in the making!
If I read your post right, your current setup is IGN --- PWR Filter --- Lilliput, correct? The power filter is not a regulator, just a capacitor and inductor to suppress spikes, so while your car is running, the Lilli is receiving ~13.7 volts. It might not like the voltage that high. Does the issue occur if the car is not running, but on? Try wiring it to either a 12v regulator (which won't be able to power the screen if the car is not running unless its a switching supply), or best solution, plug into a spare molex connector. The screen only draws about an amp, so your M2-ATX should be able to handle it.
Other than that, it could be a loose connection, but the above is a good idea anyway, whether its the issue or not.
CarPC v2.5 up and running - all hardware installed, skin configured, and iG tweaked like crazy. Now for OBD-II, and voice control, and camera plugin, and... :nutz: - it never ends!
I'm gonna change the power soon, I never thought about checking if the quirk occurs when the car is off.. However, I don't understand why "No Signal" indicates a power problem? I checked the VGA cable on both ends, and everything is nice and tight. So the problem may be within the monitor, or the power?
When I rewire the power, should I wire it like this?:
Lili --> Power Filter --> Power supply,
or
Lili --> Power supply?
2003 Mazda 6i Sedan - White
CarPC in the making!
I was finally able to bench-test the monitor using the original AC adapter, and whaddaya know? IT WORKS. I apologize for doubting those of you who said it was the un-clean power, but it just didn't sound right to me. I'll be getting started on the re-wiring soon, but I have another question:
My touch controller has been out for quite a while, and I've no idea why. Today, I put the monitor on my Dell laptop, and the monitor was recognized (I used it as a 2nd monitor), but when I plugged in the USB cable, I got the normal "Installing Device Driver Software," followed by an "Unknown Device," then finally "USB Device Not Recognized." I ignored those messages, and installed TouchKit, but TK can't find the controller. When I tap the screen, the "USB Device Not Recognized" pops up like 3 seconds later. It looks like the touch controller is still sending out data, but it gets corrupted somewhere along the line.. Any ideas?
2003 Mazda 6i Sedan - White
CarPC in the making!
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