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Thread: "Transflective" LCD panel with res touch+controler for $101+$36 S+H

  1. #1711
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    The one described on the bulk of these posts is resistive
    search e_bay for 2DIN IN DASH 7" Samsung HDMI Touch Screen Monitor Mini ITX USB
    Several sub-models available (w/case, w/o case, VGA, HDMI etc.
    I understand at one time they planned to offer a capacitive model too but that fell thru.

  2. #1712
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwynethh View Post
    The one described on the bulk of these posts is resistive
    search e_bay for 2DIN IN DASH 7" Samsung HDMI Touch Screen Monitor Mini ITX USB
    Several sub-models available (w/case, w/o case, VGA, HDMI etc.
    I understand at one time they planned to offer a capacitive model too but that fell thru.
    Hey thanks for your timely response gwynethh, do you have any experience using such a touchscreen?

  3. #1713
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    The fully cased version is the heart of our CarPC build. Not too bad from a viewing or responsiveness aspects. A bit of a pain if you want to use HDMI cabling vs a VGA cable due to issues getting the native resolution of 800X480 to work.

  4. #1714
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwynethh View Post
    The fully cased version is the heart of our CarPC build. Not too bad from a viewing or responsiveness aspects. A bit of a pain if you want to use HDMI cabling vs a VGA cable due to issues getting the native resolution of 800X480 to work.
    Thanks again! The open from version should be the same monitor, just without the case for a small motherboard or android system, right? Do you know if this has backup camera support? Does it switch automatically to reverse cam or is that ability not included with the control board? If it is included then I can remove my headunit and use the one in its original casing/frame

  5. #1715
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    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-7-LE...item19d38faa6b

    Nvm this one states it has reverse cam auto switch!

  6. #1716
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    I believe most of the models sold by those guys support reverse cam auto switch. Haven't got around to testing that feature though.

  7. #1717
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    No need for heat sink since you are only dropping alittle bit. you could feed 12v+ from ignition on and it will turn on the regulator and monitor or feed pin 4 12v+ from battery and it will always be powered. SNOAttachment 70356
    SNO do you know if i need a polarized or non polarized capacitor for the .33uf cap?

  8. #1718
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Pretty sure you just need a non polarized cap, .33 is a small ceramic cap classified as a bi-polar (can go either way) Hope this helps SNO

  9. #1719
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    I talked to Digikey support and they said that they would use a polorized one and thats what it called for in the datasheet. however I am seeing the + for the 47uf one and not the .33uf one, which leads me to believe that its in fact a ceramic non polarized one like you say. I have read that you can replace a polarized with a non polarized but not vice versa. The person at Digikey said its just for smoothing out current flow so they would use the polarized one. I dont know that much about integrated circuits, chips, capacitors and resistors so if this support person says thats what they would use I guess thats what i should go with right? On the other hand, i dont want to burn down my car because of a $0.20 capacitor.... What do you think?

  10. #1720
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Well all my .33uF's are non polarized and have been using them for the same purpose for a few years and have not had a problem. I think it's like this, they are for smoothing only and going in the regulator is really regulating the automotive varying voltage the output I would use the polarized cap as it is smoothing out the output voltage and thats where I would want the real smoothing taking place. The 47uF is an electrolite cap and the .33uF is a ceramic. Thats what I do SNO

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