The depth of the entire enclosure? I'm not sure it varies based on vehicles really. I imagine you'll be limited by whatever motherboard setup you use. Like I said it may be fine the way it is? I'm not sure you should have a recessed lip all the way around the screen though unless you plan on having a trim ring to put around it as many cars wouldn't likely cover that? I'm not entirely sure though. The area I was talking about previously was the edge of the lip between the LCD panel it self and the part that extends beyond it. It just looks deep but could be the picture?
Well if you go on Crutchfield or something and look at different 2 din head units some are different depths, also some cars can't fit a lot of double din units because they don't have the space behind the dash.
Yeah, well figure out what kind of depth you need for the hardware, and then get it as small as you can from that point is what I'd recommend. Also maybe instead of having a full enclosure option like that for people that just want to mount the screen just have it with the ears on the side to mount in the DD kit/dash this way there wouldn't be much depth? Might be a cheaper option as well. But don't remove the nice buttons and stuff on the front just make headers so we can run wires to the CarPC!
Well I can't find any depth info on Crutchfield so maybe they've moved to a standard of some sort.
Last edited by 8838.com; 02-18-2012 at 11:43 PM.
Some people don't run a head unit (like me) with their CarPC, but you can add an external tuner regardless via USB. Like I'm using a Visteon HDZoom HD radio tuner that has a special cable to go to USB, does AM and FM.
As for the device, instead of having a bunch of connections for each one (on the stand alone screen version) make it so they all work through 1 USB cable to the PC. So to get a functional screen you'd run HDMI and one USB cable from the CarPC to get the buttons, SD card reader, and extra USB port all over the single cable. Well you'd also have to run a small wire for the power button to work I'd imagine? Or maybe that could work over USB as well just maybe not to turn it on although my HTPC has a USB IR receiver that can turn it on as well but it has to go between the PSU and the motherboard to do that. Not sure how useful a power button is though? Maybe a mute button instead?