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Thread: "Transflective" LCD panel with res touch+controler for $101+$36 S+H

  1. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninja6o4 View Post
    Would your barebone CarPC fit Mini-ITX size motherboard with a full AMD/Intel CPU solution? If all it can fit is the usual Pico that allows only embedded CPU/VIA/other junk, it'll be the same as everything else out there. I can't stand those slow slow units. Horrible response, choppy video playback, no multitasking ability at all...

    Alternatively, you could look at adding a video accelerator to it for HD video playback to help that part.

    I agree with your idea of an open end. Many computers get very hot, and the open end would allow for better cooling. One thing you could do that might help is add tabs on the back to allow mounting of a fan on the back - 60mm, 80mm, 120mm(?). If the user has the room, it is a nice option. Don't waste money on including a cheap 40mm fan. They're noisy and don't have enough airflow.

    The radio while PC is turned off in an interesting idea, but the additional cost might not be worth it for some CarPC builders. For example, if it cost an extra $30 for this option, I would do it. An extra $50+... no thanks.

    One final thing to consider is the OEM look. I hate aftermarket DD stereos and the ugly faceplate you put on it. And now they have cars with all molded dashboards so nothing looks standard anymore. See here: http://store.mp3car.com/Vehicle_Specific_s/46.htm

    Notice many of them are now "Direct Fit" touchscreens instead of standard Double Din Frame, so the customer can retain the OEM look. What you could do is have the faceplate easy to remove so that users can put their own frame in to match OEM. This would save the work of creating templates for every type of car.
    Thanks for your valuable opinion

    1. HD video playback is in our list now. We won`t use very slow CPU for this project. What we planing is Intel duo core CPU and SSD HDD. Won`t let you wait for 5 mins to get into OS. lol
    2. The cooling system should be fan less. But we will consider to add mounting for fan.
    3. For the radio system, what we thinking about is: during the CAR-PC starting period, it can be use to fulfill base radio and reverse camera use. Sometimes people just start their car to move position or very short trip. no need to turn on the CAR-PC. You are right, we need to consider the cost, if it goes to high to add this function. that is worthless

    Regarding to retain OEM look by using the original faceplate. It is little tough then just by standard double dins since cars are different. Even our faceplate is easy to remove, people may not be able to put the own frame back, because the screen is a little pop out plus there are buttons and SD slot. We will try our best to see if there is any best ideas.

  2. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hdale85 View Post
    Some people don't run a head unit (like me) with their CarPC, but you can add an external tuner regardless via USB. Like I'm using a Visteon HDZoom HD radio tuner that has a special cable to go to USB, does AM and FM.

    As for the device, instead of having a bunch of connections for each one (on the stand alone screen version) make it so they all work through 1 USB cable to the PC. So to get a functional screen you'd run HDMI and one USB cable from the CarPC to get the buttons, SD card reader, and extra USB port all over the single cable. Well you'd also have to run a small wire for the power button to work I'd imagine? Or maybe that could work over USB as well just maybe not to turn it on although my HTPC has a USB IR receiver that can turn it on as well but it has to go between the PSU and the motherboard to do that. Not sure how useful a power button is though? Maybe a mute button instead?
    Got you. Let me check if we can run several USB on one USB cable. As I know, one USB device need their own USB channel. But we can make all cables in one big cable. this will be easier to do wiring. do you think it make sense?

    A power bottom is consider because sometime people do not need to turn the CAR-PC on for short trip.

  3. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8838.com View Post
    Got you. Let me check if we can run several USB on one USB cable. As I know, one USB device need their own USB channel. But we can make all cables in one big cable. this will be easier to do wiring. do you think it make sense?

    A power bottom is consider because sometime people do not need to turn the CAR-PC on for short trip.
    It is possible to run many devices off of one usb port, but it is wise to have a few, anyway. I think the maximum number of devices per port is really high, somewhere around 100 or so. Something like that. 127 comes to mind, but I think it counts the hubs as devices.

  4. #924
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    Yeah would basically work as a HUB, might want to have a connection for power to be drawn from the car instead of the USB ports if it turns out to be a bigger draw on power.

  5. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by X219c View Post
    It is possible to run many devices off of one usb port, but it is wise to have a few, anyway. I think the maximum number of devices per port is really high, somewhere around 100 or so. Something like that. 127 comes to mind, but I think it counts the hubs as devices.
    Yes, you are right, if we run through a HUB circuitry, you are use 127 devices on one USB port

  6. #926
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    Here is another update. We have the first CAD design about the front bezel. it will have 9 shortcut keys (touch sensitive). Is it looks good?

    here is the dims:

    upper frame dims: 178 * 100 mm
    bottom dims: 184.5 * 110 mm

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  7. #927
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    Its coming out really good Derrick

    However I find the dimensions slightly different from my 2DIN Slot.

    Front Frame Dimension: 177mm x 102mm
    Rear Frame Dimension: 189mm x 115.6mm

    The difference is not very significant but you may have to check a few 2DIN slots before closing the design.

    Which touch switch part are you going to use on the sides?
    Are you gonna allow these to be interfaced as a USB HID or discrete switch terminals. The former would need a plugin to be developed but the later could be a pure HW solution.
    Last edited by DigitalVampire; 02-24-2012 at 03:11 AM.

  8. #928
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    wow that's looking good. This will fill a need that I have but I have to measure my double din opening. I figure that I may have to do a little bit of fabrication to get it to fit exactly the way I want but that's ok. On the touch switch aspect a USB HID would be nice then again I can think of a few times where having a few discrete buttons can come in handy.

  9. #929
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    That case looks awesome!! I had to make mine out of an old radio. That would have made it much easier

  10. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by DigitalVampire View Post
    Its coming out really good Derrick

    However I find the dimensions slightly different from my 2DIN Slot.

    Front Frame Dimension: 177mm x 102mm
    Rear Frame Dimension: 189mm x 115.6mm

    The difference is not very significant but you may have to check a few 2DIN slots before closing the design.

    Which touch switch part are you going to use on the sides?
    Are you gonna allow these to be interfaced as a USB HID or discrete switch terminals. The former would need a plugin to be developed but the later could be a pure HW solution.
    Thanks for your message

    The double din case is 7" by 4", which is same as the 177mm * 102mm. So it should be OK.

    We have not decide which touch interface to use. I think should be USB HID. will keep you update

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