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Thread: Sooo, I need to replace the LED's on my Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T

  1. #11
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    I wasn't looking for through hole or SMT specifically. I'm sure there are some. If the SMT package has little legs you can still solder directly to it.
    With so few components it should be no problem to just encase it in shrink tube.
    I've got to put together an order. I need other stuff too. I intend to rework all the cables.
    I want to make it so there's one connector to plug into the car. Having a bunch of separate connectors is a pain and looks messy.

    Thanks guys.

  2. #12
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    Yeah, my sparky friend who keeps me from melting my car didn't like the idea of me soldering to the legs of an smt... said it was REALLY sketchy business and wouldn't likely be reliable in the violent environment of a car. I may end up trying to etch a little board for it and run jumpers to my main board. I didn't find much through hole looking quickly.

  3. #13
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    daveka, what light sensor are you using?

  4. #14
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    I don't remember the value of the light-detecting-resistor but here's a thread that talks about the PIC that reads it.
    http://www.mp3car.com/lcd-display/14...d-backlit.html

    And here's some code (I don't think this is the latest version I'm using)
    What I settled on was continuously adjusting the level.
    It steps it up or down one step at a time with a delay between each read so the change isn't noticeable.
    I mounted the LDR behind a hole in the dash and took direct readings for light and dark which gave me the range to use in the code.
    It's been a while since I did this so a lot of the info has leaked out. I'll need to do it again when I rework the system so I'll be learning it over again.


    symbol LED=2 'Output 2 - LED Backlight
    symbol LDR=4 'Input 4 - LDR with 10Kohm resistor
    w2=0 'set initial value of w2
    start:

    readadc LDR,b0 'read LDR into b0
    w1=b0+85
    if w2=0 then:w2=w1:endif 'if light is zero turn on at calculated level
    pwmout LED,99,w2 'power to LED
    if w1<w2 then:w2=w2-1:endif 'if light below current value reduce light by 1
    if w1>w2 then:w2=w2+1:endif 'if light above current value increase light by 1
    pause 200
    goto start
    Last edited by davekra; 02-07-2012 at 02:29 PM. Reason: changed code text

  5. #15
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    I just bought a pack of LDR's from Radio Shack. Pick one that is aesthetically pleasing and then voltage divide it down to a reasonable value. I read someplace a write up on picking the resistor so as to place it in the proper range for the analog read of an Arduino(which I'm using). I used a 1k I think but that is only valuable info if you know the range of my LDR. I think it was in the 10k range at high end but don't remember.

    In my case, I hooked my arduino up to the ldr and had it output the value to the serial console every second. I changed the resistor until it was very low numbers when pitch black and high numbers when directly lit by very bright LED flashlight in bright room.

  6. #16
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    Ok, I'm finally done. That took a lot longer than I'd hoped but it looks pretty good now.
    I started by cutting out all the separate wires and connectors. I found some 6 conductor cable at work and used three to connect the display and three to the connector to the car.
    Laced all the cables together so it was neat and tidy. There are a lot more connections between things than you'd think. Took hours to solder everything up.

    For the backlight I ended up using the CAT4101 1amp constant current driver. It's so easy, one small cap and an adjustable resistor. Couple that to the PWM output of the PICaxe and a little bit of code and we're good to go.
    This driver chip is so easy I'll almot never use just a resistor again.

    Next step is to mash a couple skins together to see if I can get it to do what I want.
    Thanks guys.
    davidk
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  7. #17
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    Nice. I'll have to look at the LED driver. I ended up continuing forward with how I was going as I couldn't find a through hole driver IC and didn't want to dead bug an smc.

    I love the HP SAS sled... what do you use that for? I see an SSD on board too.

  8. #18
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    The driver in the last pic is supposed to be an SMD. I just bent the leads a bit and it fit through the holes. There weren't a lot of components but it started getting really ugly without the board.

    I reloaded all the software on the SSD and, because I only had two sata ports and the cdrom needed one to boot, the external drive is a usb-sata adapter to a 500gig music drive (it's not hot-plugable though).
    The SSD is faster (I've not measured it though). The interface is up when I put it in drive after backing out. Before it wasn't up till at least three houses away.
    I'd recommend staying away from the Intel d510mo motherboard. The bios takes a long time to finish. I'd get a different board but unsoldering all the connections and re-soldering them takes way too long for the few second gain.

    Thanks,
    davidk

  9. #19
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    Here's the new code for the display driver. I'm no programmer so if this can be done better, by all means, let me know.

    It reads the initial light value and brings the display up to that quickly, then starts following the light.
    The backlight can be turned off by one of the Joycon LED outputs.

    Code:
    symbol LED=2        						'Output 2 - LED Backlight (pin5 on chip)
    symbol LDR=4        						'Input 4 - LDR with 10Kohm resistor (pin 3 on chip)
    
    
    start:
    	gosub readldr
    	for w3=1 to w1
    	gosub updown
    	gosub light
    	if w2>=1000 then:exit:endif
    	next w3
    	
    running:
    	if pin1=1 then pwmout LED,off:goto running:endif
    	gosub readldr
    	gosub updown
    	gosub light
    	pause 100
    	goto running
    	
    readldr:
    	readadc LDR,b0
    	w1=b0*17
    	if w1<30 then:w1=30:endif
    	return
    	
    updown:
    	if w1<w2 and w2>30 then:dec w2:endif
    	if w1>w2 and w2<1000 then:inc w2:endif
    	return
    
    light:
    	pwmout LED,249,w2
    	return

  10. #20
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    Not bad. How fast does it adjust? Mine is WAY too touchy right now and I need to rewrite my code. I'm using arduino so my code is different. I also can't do pauses as my arduino is doing tons of stuff and cannot sit still.

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