Hello,
Kinda new here. For some reason i can't see the diagram for the 3.3 volt mod. I just bought on Datalux LMV10R on ebay and would like to mod it. Could you please email me the picture of the circuit.
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Trottingwolf
Hi all someone pointed out that it looks like there is a cap on the v-sync from my diagram. There isnt. The cap is on the 5V line and not the V-sync. I will update the diagram and make it a little bigger.
Hello,
Kinda new here. For some reason i can't see the diagram for the 3.3 volt mod. I just bought on Datalux LMV10R on ebay and would like to mod it. Could you please email me the picture of the circuit.
Thanks.
![]()
Originally Posted by Trottingwolf
Sorry I've been away for a while. I got real busy at work.
Not sure why the pic I posted is not there anymore but I will put it up again. I also took some pictures of the inside of the screen before I sold it and will see if I can get those up here somehow.
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That helps so much!!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!!! I can pick up the parts on the way home from work and get started on upgrading the monitor.
I'm looking forward to getting an ITX computer, probably a Epia-M 9000 and a 40 GB HD. Just hope a 60 Watt DC-DC converter can handle it.
Originally Posted by Trottingwolf
Thanks!!!, I'll wait for those pics, i'm in the middle of a war right here, I bought it a week ago & and I can't put it to work. I hope this solve my problem.
HB
Works like a charm! I had to order 10 of one of the parts, so I have 9 "sets" of the parts needed, if you want, I will mail the IC and the capacitor out for $4 shipped (cheaper than shipping through digikey, and I only had one monitor to repair).
I cut the yellow (vsync) and white (hsync) wire going to the connector on the VGA to TFT converter board. The IC was spliced in between the wires, I bent all the pins that needed to be connected to each other. The grounds were all combined from the tantalum capacitor that ran underneath it. A lead was spliced, and that ground was connected to the same area on a screw (you can't miss it). I hotglued the whole thing to the wire bundle
For 5v, I tapped "C8", the center pin on the cable running to the inverter. It's a red wire on my LMV10R. That new tapped wire now has a 3pin male/female connector on it on each end so I can remove the backplate just like normal (I used some fan adapter cable I cut up).
Thank you Trottingwolf (and your EE friend)!
91 Stealth RT/TT
CarPuter: Inspiron 5150 P4 3.0ghz; Built-in WiFi; Deluo GPS; Radio Shark; OBD1; Nostromo Speedpad
Audio: Audigy 2 NX; Clarion 500.5 amp; 100.2 center channel amp; Kicker Solo-baric L7 10" Sub
Display: Lilliput 7" Touchscreen
I found the email with the part numbers from digikey, here are what I have 9 of each available.Originally Posted by Vineet Singh
1 10 296-1605-5-ND IC HEX INVERTER 14-DIP DATALUX_IC
2 10 1210PHCT-ND CAP 50V .1UF AXIAL CERAMIC Z5U DATALUX_CAP
91 Stealth RT/TT
CarPuter: Inspiron 5150 P4 3.0ghz; Built-in WiFi; Deluo GPS; Radio Shark; OBD1; Nostromo Speedpad
Audio: Audigy 2 NX; Clarion 500.5 amp; 100.2 center channel amp; Kicker Solo-baric L7 10" Sub
Display: Lilliput 7" Touchscreen
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