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Thread: Lilliput LCD, 2000 Celica GT and voltage problem

  1. #1
    Variable Bitrate Goose's Avatar
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    Lilliput LCD, 2000 Celica GT and voltage problem

    Hello.
    I am done with Version 1.0 of my system.
    I got 2000 Celica GT and Lilliput VGA LCD.
    All works fine but,
    When I turn on fog light or far-lights the screen looses a little brightnes in max 1 sec exacly when I turn on light. (the LCD is about 10% more darker).
    the same is when brake hard so the ABS system turns on.

    Now I know my car battery is old now (3,5 years) and have to be changed, but will new battery solve the problem?

    Or maby I have to mout a condensator 8or what it is colled in english ) to get stable voltage and amp?

    or do I have to go for 2 battery system? (the seccond one takes chargin but is not giving amp to the rest of the car.)

    Or is it something else I can do?

    My Car alternator is 80A...

    here is schematics over my system:
    http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/sjema.jpg
    PS! I do not the rear anf front audio apms yet. just small 8" active subwoofer.)

    and here is some picture from the instalation:
    http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/1.jpg
    http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/2.jpg

    http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/4.jpg
    http://martin.webdesigns.no/montering/3.jpg
    PS! don't look at how my LCD is mounted, it is just until monday.

    Any one who has some edvaices?

    thnx

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate
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    I just want to say that it will be awesome when you get it all installed and working. Very nice and clean job sofar.
    http://www.AJQuick.com/ - Fiberglassing Tutorials!
    My Cardomain Page - 1998 Dodge Neon R/T

  3. #3
    FLAC robiewp's Avatar
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    condensator- i think you mean capacitor. peole with too much audio stuff get big honking capacitors (1 farad should be overkill) so that their amp can reach its max and blow your eardrumbs. You could get one of these, or go with the 2nd battery option.

    How are you powering your screen + computer? sometimes if you wire them directly via heavy gauge wire (i did my setup with 4) all your problems will go away.

    P.S. what did you use for your wiring diagram? visio?

    Rob

  4. #4
    Variable Bitrate Goose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ Quick
    I just want to say that it will be awesome when you get it all installed and working. Very nice and clean job sofar.
    Thnx, I spent about 38 hours to plase all cables.
    So I want to havea clean install.
    so far here is the list over all cables:

    - 3 audio cables (front, rear and sub amplifiers)
    - 2 RCA cables (one for audio from Pc to aux-inn and rear camera, seccond to optional use )
    - vga
    - 2x USB
    - 2 ps2
    - 1 seriall
    - 1 fat +12V direct form battery on the other side of the car.
    - 1 remote signal cable to turn on amp's
    - 1 +12V for the LCD
    - 1 -12V for LCD

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate Goose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robiewp
    condensator- i think you mean capacitor. peole with too much audio stuff get big honking capacitors (1 farad should be overkill) so that their amp can reach its max and blow your eardrumbs. You could get one of these, or go with the 2nd battery option.

    How are you powering your screen + computer? sometimes if you wire them directly via heavy gauge wire (i did my setup with 4) all your problems will go away.

    P.S. what did you use for your wiring diagram? visio?

    Rob

    Capacitor yes, thnx
    I found aout that my car battery is very bad. when I charge it up, at let my car stand outside 2 day in -5 deg I have a vary problems to start the car, not becouse the engine wants start, but becouse the starter have very problems to run arround. so I am going to buy new 70A car battery, but I also will buy capacito @ 1farad.

    so if the problem is still there I will mount olt battery andhave 2 battery system.

    right now I am powering my Pc from a DC-AC inverter and AC-DC adapter.
    my LCD is powered direct from a fuse block which get power from a vary fat cable direct from car battery.

    yes I use Ms visio 2003 for diagram..

  6. #6
    FLAC robiewp's Avatar
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    if the new car battery and the farad capacitor don't fix your problems, then another car battery won't fix the real problem either. If the problem persists after all of that work try plugging your DC-AC inverter into the fuse block where you get your LCD power. It sounds to me like the wires you're running the computer off of are weak.

    Rob

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate Goose's Avatar
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    i will make a test in couple of hours.
    I will try to power my Pc direct for regular house power contact in the wall and I take power to my lcd from the car.
    If the problem is still there it means that my wires to DC-AC inverter is good inuff.

    BTW. there is a 21 (square mm) cable with +12V direct from the battery to fuse block, then there is a 8 (square mm) cable from fuseblock to DC-AC inverter.

    But I am 70% sure that is is my car battery. done some testing and it looks like this poor 3,5 years old battery has done it's job and need repleacment...

    I will post when I be done with a test I wrote about more up in this post...

  8. #8
    FLAC robiewp's Avatar
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    sounds like your wiring isn't the problem.

    Rob

  9. #9
    Variable Bitrate Goose's Avatar
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    No my wireing isn't the problem.
    I have learned from a leater experience that if you want to whire a +12V to audio amp or otherthings make if fat! very fat! so 21 (square mm) is a min I use. the 26 is to expensive and to powerfull for my use, I will never run JBL 1000W Subwoofer

    I have now tested running Pc powered from wall (house power) and I get the same problem (I call it problem, or meby a little inoing point of using LCD), the LCD is a 10% darker in about 0.5 sek in the same time I turn on fog light or hig beam lights.

    So I am goying to buy new car battery on monday. and I making it as big as possible. I hope for 80A but I am not sure there is such powerfull battry in a size that firs mounting place in engine room.

    But I discoveret another thing.
    It is that my DC-AC inverter make a lot of noise.
    then I use it I get a small inoing sound in my speakers (the inverter and PC are grounded with 8 (square mm) cable. So I am decidet to go for DC-DC PSU @150 W.

    But do you know if opus (the one I want to but) has a noise filter so I will not get this crappy inoing soung in my speakers?

    BTW: it is not cables problem as I use triple shild RCA cables.

    thnx for help

  10. #10
    Constant Bitrate
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    I had lots of noise (buzzing) problems using an inverter. I tried everything - grounding the inverter, PSU case, wiring the inverter directly to the battery, separating audio wires from power etc to no avail.

    All the noise disappeared when I switched to an Opus 150W DC-DC converter. I didn't even have to ground anything at all.

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