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Thread: Jump Lilliput on/off switch

  1. #21
    phc
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crav4Speed
    I saw a thread where someone actually soldered a wire from one side to the other side of the on/off switch. But I was wondering if the whole board could be completely removed and try to jump the on/off from the ribbon wire or somewhere internally. Is it possible? this way, it somes on and off directly from ignition.
    I dont have a pic of how I did it, but as Lucy used to say, "Let me 'splain"

    Reference: http://www.tmz.com/wrx/lilliputLCD.html

    Last photo on page, shows flex cable connector. The same connector (or similar) is on the main PCB (LCD Controller Board as I call it). I soldered a 32AWG wire between pins 5 and 8 as referenced by my list. I did this on the back end of the flex connector, which is a surface mount connector - I soldered to the connector feet. The outermost pads on the connector are not pins, so don't count them. They are slightly shorter.

    At first I just jumped 5 to 8 and recently I wired them thru a SPST MOM switch, connecting to the NC and COM on the switch. This switch is located in my glove box - allowing me to press it to open the circuit and turn the LCD on and off. Since I used the NC (normally closed) leg of the switch, whenever the LCD gets power, it turns on automaticllly.

    I set my OPUS 90W to 20 min turnoff, sick of rebooting after pumping gas, etc. But I didn't want LCD on while car was off (no need to attract pilferers or kill battery), so I routed the LCD power from the OPUS thru a relay. The relay is powered on whenever the igntion switch is on. This works pretty well also.

  2. #22
    FLAC
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    Patrick....
    I routed the LCD power from the OPUS thru a relay
    ...very good idea!
    MikeH

  3. #23
    Low Bitrate Crav4Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phc
    I dont have a pic of how I did it, but as Lucy used to say, "Let me 'splain"

    Reference: http://www.tmz.com/wrx/lilliputLCD.html

    Last photo on page, shows flex cable connector. The same connector (or similar) is on the main PCB (LCD Controller Board as I call it). I soldered a 32AWG wire between pins 5 and 8 as referenced by my list. I did this on the back end of the flex connector, which is a surface mount connector - I soldered to the connector feet. The outermost pads on the connector are not pins, so don't count them. They are slightly shorter.

    At first I just jumped 5 to 8 and recently I wired them thru a SPST MOM switch, connecting to the NC and COM on the switch. This switch is located in my glove box - allowing me to press it to open the circuit and turn the LCD on and off. Since I used the NC (normally closed) leg of the switch, whenever the LCD gets power, it turns on automaticllly.

    I set my OPUS 90W to 20 min turnoff, sick of rebooting after pumping gas, etc. But I didn't want LCD on while car was off (no need to attract pilferers or kill battery), so I routed the LCD power from the OPUS thru a relay. The relay is powered on whenever the igntion switch is on. This works pretty well also.
    Cool... I was wondering if you were ever going to respond I'll let you know how it works out. Another question, do you think its possible to have only the IR receiver and the jumped on/off switch connected? or will the IR receiver only work in conjunction with the other switches?

  4. #24
    phc
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crav4Speed
    Cool... I was wondering if you were ever going to respond I'll let you know how it works out. Another question, do you think its possible to have only the IR receiver and the jumped on/off switch connected? or will the IR receiver only work in conjunction with the other switches?
    Hmm, not sure. I don't see any reason why it wont work eletrically - the IR phototransistor has separate connections from the power switch, but it depends on what the code inside the microcontroller behaves. Only real way is to test it. I haven't done it yet, one day I'll remote mount the IR phototransistor.

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