Thread: More Lilliput Problems - Tried Searching

Originally Posted by project94coupe

I know this board has tons of threads on Lilliput problems but I tried searching and came up emtpy so no flaming please. I took my Lilliput apart for custom fabrication purposes and when it came time to put it back together it didn't work right. Basically when I hook it up and turn on the screen only the top half of the screen works and then it starts to roll/flicker out of control. I know there are 3 cables that you connect and disconnect and I was wondering if anyone knows which one would control this. I have all ready played with this a lot before I asked on here as well. Any help would be apprecaited!

Try messing around with the ribbon cables.... these never seem to go back in right the first try, the one on the back of the LCD is a pain to get seated right.

Originally Posted by lopan

Try messing around with the ribbon cables.... these never seem to go back in right the first try, the one on the back of the LCD is a pain to get seated right.

exactly.. there are not the same width on the socket. one the ribbon between the buttons and the main board!!! Crap quality!!!

when i got the new ribbon cable it was to wide in one end and did fit perfect in the other!!! ( i had to have a longer one when i removed the buttons)

//Peter

Thanks guys I will be home to try messing with the ribbon cables some more. VERY frustrating because one I have this working I can install the screen in my custom dash in put my car back together.

The 'ribbon' cables are actually FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit) cables. There's a trick to getting these cables mated properly into their connectors.

Make sure that:
1. Don't use any force when connecting or disconnecting the FPC, either on the FPC itself (it tears easily) or the latch on the connector. When unlocking the latch, push on the small tab at both sides of the latch using a fingernail, dental pick or fine tweezers.
2. Both sides of the locking latch (the brown colored part on my Lilliput) is fully unlocked, ie moved all the way out as far as it will go.
3. The FPC is seated all the way into the connector and is not slanted. Otherwise, some of the contacts on the FPC will not make contact with the connector.
4. When locking the latch, make sure both sides of the latch are fully locked, ie pushed towards the connector as far as it will go. Failure to latch properly results in insufficient clamping force on the contacts resulting in intermittent or no contact.

As usual, take the usual ESD precautions when handling electronic parts - touch a grounded surface (back of the PC etc) to discharge any static before handling the controller board. Hope this helps.

After much delay in troublshooting I think I found my problem. The thicker FPC cable is "broken" on one of the ends and it needs to be replaced. Does anyone know who was selling these on the board or another site? Also do you guys think I should replace both FPC cables

no one has any experience with this

Originally Posted by STIdev

digitalww will sell you one for about $3

EXCELLENT! You just made my night man...thanks

I managed to get in touch with Armen and he sent me some replacement FPC's in a few days. Great response time! As of late last night I tried one of my replacement cables and then tried the screen out in my car where I have the egg-shaped inverter. The screen comes on with white light and never shows my pc I am going to play with it a lot tonight but just wondering if anyone has had this prob. I do search but we all know there are a TON of Lilliput problems on the board. Thanks!