My solution to Auto Power ON Lilliput screen

I tried it with a cap only, leaving the 10k in place. It didn't work. I went ahead and did it the way Cayote drew it up. It worked!

Thanks for the solution Cayote.

Well what do you know. In frustration I cut off all the wires connecting to the board and redid them. And now I got picture! Man, I thought I already lost RM$1000 on this. The controller board doesnt seem to be working anymore though, this is the one where you plug in the ribbon cable. I think it might not be the controller board, but some circuits leading to the ribbon connector on the vga controller board (that connects to the controller board). You can see it in the first page of this thread (where you solder the ground)

I cant use remote or any buttons anymore.. so I soldered the TM701L power button to ground and the point at the end of that capacitor in the pic.

I havent performed this auto power on yet.. i'll play with my relief that my lilliput is still working for a month or so and wait a while before I perform another mod.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRCinAU

:D Well, it works as advertised... Now I'm nice and happy :) Only have to get a shutdown controller happening soon :)

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crcinau, may i know where you got your liliput? and how good (or bad?) is it? is it with touchscreen? i'll ty this mod as soon as i get a liliput.

danon

For those who actually did the modification, i just wanna make sure the screen coyote's talking about is the 7" lilliput touchscreen which is what i have.
Thanks!

yes

I just did the mod and it works, the screen auto powers on, but i cant turn it off and i cant press any other buttons. also, the red/green power light is just off now. any ideas?

I just took my RC circuit out... put the SMR back in... thank god it still works that was hard as hell. I'll test the RC circuit and see whats up.

i think it was a bad cap

I made this modification to my LCD this evening. I decided to use SMD components to keep it tight.

I replaced the 10K SMD resistor with a 150K, then soldered the ground side of an inverted 10uF 16V Tantalum SMD chip to the ground tab on the side of the keypad cable connector (same ground point used in the original mod). Then I tied a wire between the + side of this SMD cap and the signal side of the SMD resistor. It works perfectly, and the power button still allows manual control.

I avoided issues with the flex ribbon cables by not disconnecting them at all during any part of this process. The only cables I found it necessary to disconnect were the speaker connector and the flourescent bcaklight connector. These need to be disconnected to allow the case halves to open fully.

Thanks for a great mod, Coyote.