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Thread: My solution to Auto Power ON Lilliput screen

  1. #221
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    o thank god! i got the new screen and i took it apart of course without breaking anything findout the circuits was different.. so i came here and now i find this useful piece of info! gotta luv the new screen and cant wait to put it together and fiberglass mold it into the center console =)

  2. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by projectpcmr2
    o thank god! i got the new screen and i took it apart of course without breaking anything findout the circuits was different.. so i came here and now i find this useful piece of info! gotta luv the new screen and cant wait to put it together and fiberglass mold it into the center console =)
    You gota check out the other "auto power on" thread. All you have to do is punching the buttons on the remote not soldering stuff. Much safer.
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  3. #223
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    ok, i have an 8" lilliput that i basically screwed the cable up enough that i can't get and leds to light up or have the power turn on, so i need to do an autopower by soldering, only thing is my board is a little different than the one that ming did. can someone please tell me where i can connect the resistor to work on mine?




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    bump

  5. #225
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    http://www.stevegoodman.plus.com/for..._on_thread.jpg

    They are using the same SyncCMOS chip, so find out which resistor is connected to the 2'nd pin down from the right hand side of the chip. That is the chip's input for the power button.

    That's the one you need to add the capacitor to. Add a 100 - 150uF cap from ground to that pin on the chip or to the resistor it is tied to.

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    Constant Bitrate trance728's Avatar
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    so i grabbed a 100uF capacitor, its 35v, is that right? also can i screw up my monitor if i tag the wrong resistor, i want to check first before i solder but i don't want to fry anything if i touch the wrong one?

  7. #227
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    Of course you can destroy your monitor if you connect the wrong points. Be very careful.
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  10. #230
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    Adding a CAP won't damage anything, if it doesn't work, pull it off. A 6.3V or higher CAP will work. 35V is fine.

    Make sure you don't solder bridge nearby connections, check with a meter or continunity tester.

    Its easier to solder to the cap to the resistor than the pin on the chip, so find which resistor is directly connected to the pin.

    Good luck.

    And don't solder with any power connected to the board. Unplugg all connections first.
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