Thread: Help! Just wrecked my poor little Lilli

Use an multimeter and measure the resistance between the pins on the Lilliput's power input jack (place the red or +ve probe on the centre pin and black or -ve probe on the outer pin). If the resistance is a dead short, check the areas that you soldered for solder balls that could have shorted across to another track. Check both sides of the board - solder balls often form on the reverse side of the board when excess solder is applied and are hidden from view. Pay special attention to the pads that carry power and look out for solder whiskers as well.

Thanks for the advice Shchua, I did a check and found no shorts, excess solder etc. (I have a useful mulitmeter option that just beeps when there is a direct connection between the two probes - perfect for finding shorts and checking solder connections!)

I actually woke up to a PM from Masch who suggested that I tried the old USB cable and see whether I received any power via that - I did and everything worked!

I have now being trying different possibilities of powering the controller board and have found that when I hard wire the controller direct from the power source the screen is all fully fuctional. However, when I try to power the screen through the TM-701L wiring loom, the power light turns on at the front but I can't seem to turn the screen on.

When I revert back to the direct wiring option the screen is fully fuctional again - do you have any ideas what is happening?

To clarify,

Direct wiring:
Supplied Lilliput transformer ---> Supplied Lilliput USB cable ---> USB cable cut and wired direct into board.

Wiring via TM-701L:
Supplied Lilliput transformer ---> Supplied Lilliput USB cable ---> USB cable cut and wired direct to supplied TM-701L casing power lines (the cable with Video 1 & 2)

I just can't understand what is going on, can any of you bright sparks shed any light on my problem?!

Look forward to any suggestions

Originally Posted by timwiththebo

I have now being trying different possibilities of powering the controller board and have found that when I hard wire the controller direct from the power source the screen is all fully fuctional. However, when I try to power the screen through the TM-701L wiring loom, the power light turns on at the front but I can't seem to turn the screen on.

When I revert back to the direct wiring option the screen is fully fuctional again - do you have any ideas what is happening?

To clarify,

Direct wiring:
Supplied Lilliput transformer ---> Supplied Lilliput USB cable ---> USB cable cut and wired direct into board.

Wiring via TM-701L:
Supplied Lilliput transformer ---> Supplied Lilliput USB cable ---> USB cable cut and wired direct to supplied TM-701L casing power lines (the cable with Video 1 & 2)

I just can't understand what is going on, can any of you bright sparks shed any light on my problem?!

Look forward to any suggestions

Hmm, it looks like the problem may be in the wiring that came with the in-dash housing. I suspect that the wiring resistance is higher than normal - this will allow the red LED on the front panel to turn on but prevent the monitor from turning on properly (excessive voltage drop when the monitor tries to draw full operating current). I'd suggest checking the resistance of the GND and +12V lines from the small circuit board at the back to the ribbon cable in the monitor housing. Watch out for obvious things like a kinked flex cable or loose connections at both of the flex cable connectors.

Edit: Also, make sure that your +12V is wired correctly. If +12V is supplied to V1 or V2 instead, there might be enough leakage current to light up the front panel LED but not enough to power the monitor on completely !

I had a similar problem with my lilliput not working when inside the case and using the supplied cables but working when not using the cables. Turns out the filter that comes with the housing was doing something to stop it from working. Once I removed the filter (cut it off) everything worked fine.
I wish I could say that the resistance was too high in the filter, but that would be pretending I know what im talking about :P

Good luck and let us know how you go!

Having tried putting power in at different points along the 12v line I have found and can confirm with JayKaye that the 12v filter is the problem.

Too pleased for words that I've finally located the problem, but too annoyed that it was something this simple.

Thanks so much for the post JayKaye, if only I had started this thread earlier rather than trying to work it out myself.

Anyway, the end result is good and we need to make sure that other people that try this conversion are aware of this problem. I will write to Armen and try to get him to include a warning note with the TM-701L housing saying that if you occur a power problem, try bypassing the 12v filter. Also, if he could update his install guide that could help as well.

Also thanks to the guys above: Schua, CdRsKull and JayKaye - you've showed what a good forum can do for me!

I'm in the middle of my Lilliput in-dash conversion, so thanks for the heads up.

Glad I could help it took me a while to figure it out myself. Once everything is done with my car PC I will be writing up an installation guide as I feel the one on Armens site could be improved upon a little.