FAQ: Everything you need to know about your Lilliput
FAQ Type Responses Only
Where to buy
Update Your Drivers
Download the drivers here or here.
- Ensure the DIN connector is fully plugged in.
- Try pinching/sqeezing DIN connector (bad ground connection)
- Auto adjust
- Set refresh rate to 75Hz or higher to stop flickering
- Order a replacement ribbon cable (aka flexible printed cable) from www.digitalww.com.
- Ensure wires soldered to board
- Despite what the specs say on many of the auctions and even on the Lilliput website, the 618 and 619 do NOT support reverse X-axis or reverse y-axis (eg, to emulate a mirror or make image upside down). This is an error in their documentation.
- The 'USB' port on the side of the monitor isn't actually USB, it just looks like it. It's a special plug to give access to the auxillary inputs (like RCA).
- The RCA audio-in only works when you're in one of the RCA video-in modes, not in VGA. You can't use it as a small PC speaker while in VGA mode.
Auto-Power On Tutorial by coyote
Auto-power on and technical info:
Power your Lilliput from your computer powersupply
The "Barrel plug" for your lilliput is an "M" size one at Radio Shack... 5.5mm OD 2.1mm ID (274-1569 @ Radioshack)
Powering your Lilliput from your opus: (from shchua)
You can power the Lilliput monitor directly from the Opus's regulated +12V output without going through the car cigarette adapter. Here's what I did - run two wires (18 AWG) from the Lilliput to the Opus. At the monitor end of the wire, solder a barrel plug ("M" size... 5.5mm OD 2.1mm ID) that fits into the monitor's DC in jack. At the Opus end, I soldered the wires into a Y power splitter (+ve to yellow and -ve to black) - the one that has a female connector that plugs into the Opus 4-pin power connector for hard disks and splits into 4-pin hard disk power connectors. This way you can disconnect the wire if you need to bring the PC into the house.
The tricky part is getting the polarity right. Measure the voltage at the barrel plug BEFORE plugging it into the Lilliput. The center connector (tip) should be +ve and the outer connector should be -ve.
Power consumption measurements and tech info:
What Resolution should you run?
SVGA, RCA Composite, & VGA
If you want to extend the video/touchscreen breakout cable (the one that gives you your VGA plug), use a "9 Pin Mini-Din" cable. This may also be referred to as a 'bus mouse extension cable'. Don't confuse this with a normal PS/2 keyboard or mouse extension cable, they don't have enough pins and have a different shape inside.
Example cable: http://store.mp3car.com/9pin_Mini_di..._p/cbl-019.htm
Taking It Apart
-----Write-up by Lopan-----
As far as taking the lilliput apart, remove the four screws on back, there are four clips in the plastic housing. 2 on top, 2 on bottom, just apply pressure to the top and use something like a credit card (not a screw driver, it'll chew your casing up) to pry it apart. Take your time, and be patient, basically you don't want to rip the wiring apart when it pops open, once you get the top the bottom will come loose much easier.
after you have the casing open you'll notice 4 small tabs holding the LCD, take a screw driver and loosen the screws, turn the tabs and the LCD will come loose.
As far as the ribbon cables go, for those that haven't encountered connections like these, don't just pull them out. You'll notice on the connector a little colar this needs to be popped up, (only on the housing button panel) once you slide the colar up the cable will be very easy to pull out.
The ribbon cable on the back of the LCD has a different connector, basically it has a little plastic piece that pivots up to release the ribbon cable use a small flathead screwdriver to gentle pry this up.
Important: Both kinds of ribbon cable connectors are delicate and easy to break so know how they release before trying anything. And NEVER try to force them.
basically now your LCD is free... to get the circuit board out youll see the four small screws like you removed from the back of the case... remove those NOT the silver screws (those hold the USB control board on, if I remember correctly).
After you get the circuit board free you'll notice that the 9 pin connector can't be remove from the case... Now... Spyhunter actually cut his case to get it out... however I kind of wanted to keep that intact, don't be scared, make a wiring diagram or follow the link to the WRX site in SPYHUNTERs writeup for wiring, this is quite possibly the easiest soldering job I ever encountered. Note the wires, peel off the hot glue, de-solder pull the cable out of the housing, re-solder and hot glue them back in place (the hot glue probably isn't that important but I personally wanted to insure they'd stay in place)
now both the LCD and circuit board are free... go crazy.
BTW: Don't go crazy when you power the lilliput and nothing happens, just reseat the ribbon cables, in specific the wide one is a REAL pita to get reseated properlly... I personally had to reseat it at least 3 times to get it to come back up. It works great now though.
.....more to come & Thanks to all those who have contributed!