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Thread: Running Lilliput w/out buttons

  1. #1
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    Running Lilliput w/out buttons

    Hey I have a question abotu runnign the lilliput w/out the buttons pcb connected. If I remvoe the buttons do I jsut jump wires 5 and 8 to get it to power on when I have the opus, also is there really a need of the buttons to browse the internal menu to move the screen at all ?

  2. #2
    Low Bitrate
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    I am not sure about how to go about powering it but as far as the buttons go couldn't you just use the remote that came with your screen.

  3. #3
    Newbie ML430's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59fire
    Hey I have a question abotu runnign the lilliput w/out the buttons pcb connected. If I remvoe the buttons do I jsut jump wires 5 and 8 to get it to power on when I have the opus, also is there really a need of the buttons to browse the internal menu to move the screen at all ?
    There's no need at all to have the buttons available up front... I simply wrapped my front buttons behind the rest of the screen and zip-tied it in place.

    I also permanently "jumped" the on/off button with a short jumper wire... It automatically comes on when it receives a 12V signal. I send the 12V signal to the screen via one of the lines coming out of my 90w OPUS so it comes on when the rest the computer turns on and goes off when the computer shuts down... A nice regulated 12V circuit for the LCD and it's all hands off...

    Here's pics of the back (I circled the "jumped" on/off button)



    Here's a pic of my housing I made with no buttons on it... I like the cleaner stock look..

    1999 Mercedes ML430 - Epia M10000, OPUS 90w, 512mb, 160gb, Deluo GPS, SB Audigy 2 NX, 7" Lilliput TS

  4. #4
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    Whoa, you have a button to read peoples minds? Cool
    2001 Z28 Camaro
    Epia M10000, 30gb HD, Samsung DVD/CD-R/CD-RW, 7" Lilliput.

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate carabuser's Avatar
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    http://www.digitalww.com/VGA_Lillipu...ash_HowTo.html

    scroll down to the part where the diagram is mentioned. that should do it i guess. you could also relocate the IR receiver (what I'm doing actually) to make it work from your remote. good luck
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  6. #6
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    Wow thank you, I have been looking for a pic of the back of an install where no buttons were molded in up front fro a while now . I also like the much mroe stock look without having any buttons showing, that and the area I will be molding the screen into would not fit as well with the bottom portion of the housing where the buttons are. Anyways thanks, I may have more questions when Igo to actually wire ti how on how to jump the power button
    Quote Originally Posted by ML430
    There's no need at all to have the buttons available up front... I simply wrapped my front buttons behind the rest of the screen and zip-tied it in place.

    I also permanently "jumped" the on/off button with a short jumper wire... It automatically comes on when it receives a 12V signal. I send the 12V signal to the screen via one of the lines coming out of my 90w OPUS so it comes on when the rest the computer turns on and goes off when the computer shuts down... A nice regulated 12V circuit for the LCD and it's all hands off...

    Here's pics of the back (I circled the "jumped" on/off button)



    Here's a pic of my housing I made with no buttons on it... I like the cleaner stock look..


  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate Squid's Avatar
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    I chopped the entire bottom of my housing off to make it fit my dash...

    I just extending the wires of the IR sensor from the connector on the Lilly...

    Careful tho.. It worked fine for quite awhile... then it started whiggin out
    after awhile (the IR sensor...) so I just went and extended the power/menu/menu left buttons from
    the connector to my glove box with small momentary switches... that all works great now...

    I'd use the coyote auto-on mod before I shorted out the power button...
    I like to be able to "auto-tune" the screen still...

    You can access everything with the remote... but be careful... I made a connector for the IR sensor
    and I think I connected them Vsignal-in, +5v, then Ground.. and It sent
    some voltage to board and messed up something...
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate Squid's Avatar
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    Here it is installed... u can see I needed the bottom gone to fit
    the double-din slot...
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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