Here is a diagram to give you the basic idea.
Use the diagram as it is drawn at your own discretion.
kingtut -
that’s true, I never thought about it that way but yes it should work for pretty much any type of monitor.
As far as the diagram goes its pretty straight forward. The pink line coming into the relay contact 86 is a switched 12 volt input. Basically when 12 volts is applied to contact 86 it energizes a coil inside the relay. This happens once your computer is started, power is sent up to the monitor and to the relay. While the coil is energized it flips a switch between contact 87 and 30 simulating a button press. Contact 87 and 30 simply run to the back of your lilliput power switch on the power switch circuit board, I believe this is separate from the main PCB board. You should see 2 contact points on the back of the pcb board where the switch sits. As I mentioned in my first post I don't believe that the switch has polarity which means no +'ve or -'ve. You would connect the wires one on each side of the switch contact points. It doesn't matter which side is connected to contact 87 and 30 on the relay. Then you have to hook up the lillilput ground wire or a black wire from your computer molex connector to contact 85 on the relay. However, before you solder the connection to contact 85 you have to put your capacitor (this has polarity so you have to watch your +'ve and -'ve here) and resistor in parallel in-between this connection.
if I have some time later I will do up another diagram ... but that should get you started.
Here is a diagram to give you the basic idea.
Use the diagram as it is drawn at your own discretion.
Let me post an observation that I noticed that my screen(Liliput) does. I have not read any thread that decribes this behavior...OK now the details....
First, I have it powered with my OPUS..
when first powered up it comes on in standby(power light is red) by default...but here is the cool thing that works for me until i mod it into the dash...If I want it to be on when I power up the computer( linked to my alarm) then I just leave it on when the computer goes into standby mode, cause it seems to return to whatever state it was in when it was power was cut. I don't know if there are a diff versions of the this screen. I was going to do one of these mods but then I noticed this cool trick...
Any comments on other screens...is mine the only one..![]()
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One comment - when it's in standby mode like that the lilliput is still drawing about 1/2 it's normal current draw - around 400mA if I remember correctly. So you better have a big battery connected or you'll be in trouble. Check the lilliput FAQ for exact values.
Progress: 80% - Permanent install left.
Motion LS800 Tablet PC and dock.
Vista, Bu-535 GPS, RoadRunner, MPT2006.
I don't get how this is remotely simpler or easier than just putting a resistor and capacitor inside the lilliput. That requires less circuit building and fewer solders (since your circuit still requires the cap & resistor).
I went for the even simpler single 100uF capacitor approach and was done in under 1/2 an hour - most of which was careful opening and closing of the case.
Progress: 80% - Permanent install left.
Motion LS800 Tablet PC and dock.
Vista, Bu-535 GPS, RoadRunner, MPT2006.
No, its not drawing anything( I could be wrong, I haven't actually pulled out my meter and checked). Its connected to the 12v rail...so when the computer goes into standby mode the power gets cut...??Originally Posted by Arathranar
Yes, I do....I have a Yellow Top :POriginally Posted by Arathranar
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Current Project: DFXVoice [Beta Released]
Next in line: RRMedia v2.0
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Blue ZX3 - I am not going to leave my pc in standby so I don't think your trick would work for me. As for the trick itself, I am a little confused as once the power is cut the lilliput would return to standby (red led) once powered on again. Maybe you can explain how it is hooked up?
Arathranar -
Never said it was simpler or easier, yes it does require an additional part and a couple more solder points. Like I said before I rather work on non-vital parts of the monitor rather than the main PCB itself. It is safer this way regardless of your soldering skill. If I am not mistaken didn't you post this in the other coyote thread? "Well, I'm not sure if I screwed up the mod and shorted one of the resistors next door to the one I was soldering to or if the 100 uF capacitor is too big as Coyote was concerned it might, but my menu button no longer works."
Ok...."I am a little confused as once the power is cut the lilliput would return to standby (red led)" this would be the first thought...me too. When I noticed this my first thought was that the PSU was leaving a slight voltage on the rail, so I pulled the power plug out of the screen when it was on waited a little and then pluged it back in and to my surprise it came right back on, just as it was before I pulled the cord...I haven't changed anything on/in the screen, its stock..
RideRunner...The #1 FE, PERIOD.
Current Project: DFXVoice [Beta Released]
Next in line: RRMedia v2.0
DFX 5.1.1 Skin
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Yes. But that doesn't bother me. It would be trivial to remove the capacitor I added if I did care. For all I know, it's just a result of dismantling the lcd and unplugging the cables. Perhaps the main lcd cable I very slightly pulled out during disassembly is the cause of the problem...
So you're saying you prefer doing it this way because you've only soldering on the button pcb, which is fair enough. Still not risk free though (see above).
Progress: 80% - Permanent install left.
Motion LS800 Tablet PC and dock.
Vista, Bu-535 GPS, RoadRunner, MPT2006.
I think you are just lucky. Someone else claimed they had a Lilliput that auto powered on without the mod. Maybe yours is another of those special onesOriginally Posted by Blue ZX3
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Progress: 80% - Permanent install left.
Motion LS800 Tablet PC and dock.
Vista, Bu-535 GPS, RoadRunner, MPT2006.
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