just use a remote :-P lol
So I have read all the posts on doing the 150k and 10uf cap deal. Personally I think this makes a mess of the PCB board. So I have come up with another way, which moves this circuitry outside of the monitor case. This solution may not work for everyone, but for myself I am not using the stock casing so it doesn't matter.
Anyways here goes. My Idea is to use a momentary relay switch.
Assuming you have an additional 0.3 amps on your 12 volt rail to spare. You would splice into your 12volt +ve power line coming to the lilliput from your computer's molex power connector. (or you could run 2 new wires from a new molex connector in your case up to the monitor. These 2 wires will hook up to the relay as shown on the attached diagram. The relay as you can see only gets power while the computer is on and powering the monitor. Now you do have to do some soldering but they are quick and painless. Your going to solder 2 wires one on each side of the power button making a parallel hook-up to the onboard power switch. These wires will run out of the monitor case (you may have to drill a hole) back to the relay. The 2 switch wires will hook up to the relay, again as shown in the diagram. I don't believe polarity is an issue for the switch connections.
How it works. "The capacitor allows the coil of the relay to be energized until the capacitor stores a charge, thus de-energizing the coil. The resistor bleeds off the charge of the capacitor when positive voltage is removed from the other side of the coil. You can increase the output time by simply changing the value of the capacitor. This one will give you about a 1/2 second output." (the 12volt.com)
I think this is much cleaner than anything I have seen thus far. Doing that 150k resistor and capacitor deal makes a mess of your pcb board. Taping the switch could come undone. Lastly shorting the switch leaves the other buttons useless on the board.
I have not tried this as of yet. Anything I have overlooked or any personal observations are welcome.
Hopes this gives people a different way to auto-power their lilliput.
So much grief, and I thought this monitor was designed for the car???
yeah, that'll work if you've modded your screen into the dash and don't want any of the buttons, and don't want to ***** around with a remote whenever you get in the car.Originally Posted by xdjxklusivex
intense, looks like a great idea to me
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I don't think you make a mess on PCB with a resistor and cap, if you have good soldering skills.
this solution uses more components and 4 wires to the PCB, probably not much better and certainly more complicated.
I am the same way, I don't want to turn on the screen every time with the remote. I want to push the OPUS power button to start the entire system.
It uses a relay as 1 additional component, they are cheap and can be purchased for $2.99. Only 2 wires go to the button pcb not 4, the other 2 come from your pc or can be taken from your 12 volt power wire before it goes into your lilliput. As for it not being much better? compare the two methods and you tell me. 1 alters the onboard electronics of the main pc board, removing a resistor and adding electronics that were not there in the first place (not to say there is anything wrong with the design). or 2, a simulated button press. I don't see how it is much more complicated, like you said, if you have good soldering skills and can figure out how to hook up the cap and resistor to the main PCB board.
The only draw back I see is if your lilliput is not in the dash and you have the case sitting out in the open. Some might not like to have more wires running into the case.
I think this method is much safer. It is not like your screen is cheap either if anything goes wrong. Worse comes to worse, you ruin $4 of parts rather than $400. Again, it's just an alternative method.
Thats exaclty what i did with my tView, works like a charm, I have the M1-ATX so i hooked that up to the remote amp turn on ( since the tview needs a few sec od power before the switch will work).
I dont even have the switch panel connected, been running switch-less since feburary and no problems.
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you need the switch panel connected with the lilliput monitor, there is no way to turn it on otherwise.
intense, I like your idea, it is a lot mor elegant besides, the 8" screen does not have the same layout as the 7" so your idea should work for both.
Can you explain that diagram in english, I am lost with diagrams, the green wire  is confusing me. Also, what do you mean by "other side" - connection-, how do I know which side on the button is + which is -. Thanks for the contribution.