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Thread: Sharp/ Casio Gamecube display

  1. #11
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    Awesome Find!!!!

    THank you so much for posting this!!! I've been looking for some time now for I have this very same LCD screen. I'm rather new at this sort of thing so I have a question concerning power to the LCD. Can it be run directly from a PC's power supply via the 12v line and ground wire from a "molex" connector?? Would I need to utilize BOTH pins on the LCD for power? In other words run two power leads to a single molex pin and the same for the ground wires. Or would I need to use something like a cigarette lighter power adapter modified to use in my PC?? Again thank you for posting this info, it's helped out quite a bit!!!!!

  2. #12
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    Please don't shoot me for bringing up an old topic! I'm now working on the same lcd screen, which is available in the xbox screen being sold by geeks.com (was around $30, now up to $40). Thanks for this great guide!

    Quote Originally Posted by MrMAyhem View Post
    Can it be run directly from a PC's power supply via the 12v line and ground wire from a "molex" connector??
    It should be able to, yes. I'll be trying it just as soon as I can get the connectors hooked on.

    EDIT: Confirmed

    Would I need to utilize BOTH pins on the LCD for power? In other words run two power leads to a single molex pin and the same for the ground wires.
    I'm assuming not. My unit was only powered through pins 9 and 10 (above), and my setup will use the same pins. I'm not really sure why all the unused and duplicate pins, but it may have been for compatibility with an older design or higher power ratings.

    EDIT: Confirmed. You can actually use either 9 and 10 or 4 and 5, or any combination of the two. I haven't bothered to check if those pins just connect to each other, but I'm assuming they do.

    Or would I need to use something like a cigarette lighter power adapter modified to use in my PC??
    Baaaad idea. Your cigarette lighter puts out roughly 12v, but during and directly after starting it can range from 6-24v (or worse). For my CarPC project, I'm using a PicoPSU, which can regulate the voltage and maintain a steady 12v.

    A little extra info: my unit has an extra wire popping out of the hole to the top left of the connector, this appears to be a brightness control. I'm going to try and hook it into the dash brightness control, through the CD player's wiring harness. I'll report back here on the results of that, if there are no objections.

  3. #13
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    Hi wh00ps,

    If you're using the PicoPSU, then the "12v" output line is not regulated at all. It is actually at roughly the same voltage as the input. Most reviews show the 12v output line at ~0.3v below input, which would suggest that the output is only separated from the input by a diode, possibly for reverse polarity protection.

    pb

  4. #14
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    Hmm, I hope that's not the case. I purchased the PicoPSU-60-WI specifically for this purpose, and all the reviews I can find show only the normal (non-wide input) version.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wh00ps View Post
    Hmm, I hope that's not the case. I purchased the PicoPSU-60-WI specifically for this purpose, and all the reviews I can find show only the normal (non-wide input) version.
    I bought the PicoPSU when I started my CarPC project. At that time it passes out whatever voltage was fed into it. I do not believe they have changed the product, just the warnings. I know see on many ebay pages something to the tune of "not suitable for in the car. Use this one instead" and links to a M2.

    I am afraid your Pico wont work. Sorry.
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

  6. #16
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    Hi wh00ps,

    I didn't even realize that they made a "Wide Input" version.

    That said, the PDF manual found here states that you shouldn't even use a 3.5in HD with this power supply due to the limited current available on the 12v line. In fact, the manual goes on to state that there is only 450mA maximum peak load permitted on the 12v line.

    Furthermore, there is no overload protection on the 12v line, so any device (or combination of devices) drawing more than 5.4W (12v*.45A) on the 12v line could cause catastrophic failure of the power supply.

    The PicoPSU-WI appears to provide stable regulation of the 12v line, but I'd advise you to be very careful regarding the total current draw on that line, to include any potential current requirements of your mobo.

    pb

  7. #17
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    Hey guys! Joined up after I saw this thread (I'm doing the exact same thing to my GC monitor).

    Anyway, I believe I've wired mine up right, it's just that the picture is flickering so much. I can see the desktop colors fine, so I know I did the RGB right.

    I've been messing with PowerStrip as well and have had no luck.

    I figured I'd post some pictures and get some feedback on what could be wrong. Thanks!

    The display:


    The wiring:

  8. #18
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Have you checked the refresh rate?
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

  9. #19
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    Yeah, all that does is change the speed of how fast it flickers, or changes the size of the bars flickering. I'm absolutely stumped on why this isn't working.

  10. #20
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    just FYI, I had the same issue, I never did manage to get it working, and don't have any time right now to mess with it. I did manage to get a somewhat visible image by checking the "Composite Sync" button somewhere in Powerstrip, and playing with all sorts of settings, but never got a completely usable image.

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